My 99 Max has a bad jerking/bucking problem. I have tried to diagnose it myself, but I am at a loss as to what's causing it. It is more pronounced after the car has been sitting for a long period of time (overnight). It happens the worst in 1st gear, 2nd isn't too bad, 3rd usually doesn't happen, 4th & 5th doesn't happen. It usually happens from 300 to 2500 RPM. It bucks really hard unless I press in the clutch or try and accelerate through it. The problem tends to go away after the car reaches it's normal operating temp. No CEL's at all. None stored in the ECU either. Also, I have a slight decrease in gas mileage and a slightly rough idle.

As far as trying to diagnose this problem, after reading the forums, I went to the coil packs first, since those are prone to fail in the 99's. I swapped all 6 of my coils with my gf's Max, but still had the same problem. I changed the knock sensor, checked the MAF with a VM, all injectors with a VM, both were within normal specs. I checked the spark plugs, which looked fine.

My car might have a short in the wiring. My dash cluster goes haywire sometimes (gauges flicker and read incorectly, but only once and a while). But I don't know if this could be related to my problem. I'm leaning towards the problem being either a clogged injector or some kind of wiring problem. Any useful help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Assuming your a 5 speed, do you have an input shaft whine? Your tranny could be the culprit here, although you said it gets better when your car gets to operating temperature.

When was the last time you changed your gear oil?

 

I have a 5 spd. What would that whining noise sound like? I haven't heard any unusual noises. I got the car in January of 2010 and have never changed gear oil yet.

 

I had an issue like this a few years back. I had an automatic and when I would accelerate from stop, it felt like as if someone had hit me from the back. I had no clue what it was either, but I checked the tranny fluid and it was really low which was strange. Then I discovered that for some reason my tranny gasket had a tear so the tranny fluid was leaking.

 

I'll have to have a look at the oil level in the trans. I don't have a dipstick, like autos, so I'll have to remove the oil filler plug and check if I feel the oil in there.

 

You may as well just get fresh gear oil and change it...its really easy. Theres a writeup in the stickes, but basically all you do is jack up the front end, loosen the 14mm drain plug, let it drain, tighten the drain plug, lower the car and refill the tranny.

You will be able to tell how old your gear oil is by how dark it is and how it smells. And you can gauge how much there was because they hold approx. 4.5 qts, give or take. The weight is 75w-90 too.

It wouldn't hurt and its routine maintainence and I would consider doing it soon if I were you.

 

For a 5 speed max, get 5 qts. of AMSOIL MTG (75W90) GL-4 Manual Trans/Gear Lube and that should/hopefully will correct the driveability issues. It's basically the same price as Nissan MTF but is synthetic and has twice the longevity and much better performance and protection. Start there and hopefully that is all that's needed.

 

Ok sounds good. I'll stop by the store after work and get some oil. I'll keep you guys posted on whether or not the problem is solved afterwards.

 

while you are there, it is recommended to replace the gasket as well. They cost like 10 bux, very cheap.

 

Dont forget the chevron techron while u there


U sure its not a slipping clutch? Does the car whine or make any noises. Take a real good look at suspension while u in there.

 

What gasket are you refering to? Theres no gasket that I know of...unless you are refering to axle seals, which would require pulling both axles out, a lot more work than the OP needs to worry about.


A slipping clutch will not make the car violently jerk or buck, it will slip and you will feel a constant loss of power if it is really bad. And usually you only notice it right after shifting, not while in gear for a while.

And why would he use Chevron Techron with the tranny? Isn't that fuel injector cleaner?

 

Sorry, using the wrong words, its a filter kit that you can get at pepboys and those type of stores. If your transmission was leaking, it is possible that rubber seal and the filter may be bad, so its in good terms to replace it. I have an automatic, so I know mine has that, but I don't know about 5 speed. I assume it should, someone with a 5 speed probably knows. Here is a link to the set.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_752832422___

 

Theres no filter or gasket on the 5-speed. Just a drain plug and a fill plug.

 

How are your motor mounts and how long have you had this Max?? I ask because when I got mine, I would get into this rythm where the motor would buck. As the car surged the pressure of my foot on the gas pedal would change and It would snowball into something very embarrasing. I've since gotten used to the car and dont have that issue anymore.

 

It's definitely not a slipping clutch. I've had experience with a clutch going bad before. There aren't any noises either.

 

I've had this Max since January of this year. I haven't taken a look at the motor mounts yet. The car just feels really jerky. This morning when I left for work, my tires chirped from it...jeez my neighbors probably think I don't know how to drive stick lol.

 

I had the same problem 97 max 5 speed. With car war and not running unplug the grey and brown connectors on the TPS (from drivers side fender looking at throttle body the connectors are on the right side of throttle body and they plug into the TPS), restar engine and let run for a minute or so, stop engine, replug connectors, restart engine and let run and depress accelarater 5 times (do not have to rev to high). I tried this and it took care of problem I hope it works for you.

 

All of you are going the wrong direction on this one. OP, replace your O2 sensors.

 

Wouldn't the O2 sensors trigger a CEL? I'm not sure if that's the problem. When I got the car, the dealer actually replaced one of them before they sold it to me.

I'm waiting on a local rep from Amsoil to get the shipment of synthetic GL-4 gear oil. I tried looking at all the local stores for some GL-4, to no avail. I figure it's worth a shot. Besides, it can't hurt to get some fresh oil in the tranny.

 

It's the Solenoid.

 

WTF... Its a 5 speed.

 

same issue with mine lol

 

Check lower radiator support to see if it is rusted/broken. When mine went, I was getting odd vibrations when running up through the gears....

 

Back to the bucking...

Check the motor mounts. Open the hood, pull the e-brake up nice and tight. Put the car in 1st and start letting out the clutch to put some load on the engine. Make sure it doesn't move. Do the same with the car in R. The engine shouldn't move much at all. If you can see if lift up, you have a bad engine mount.

Check the TPS - Use a DVM. Make sure it's adjusted correctly. There is a procedure on here, use the search feature. Check the sweep with the DVM. Make sure it's linear and smooth with no drop outs.

 

Ok, I tested out the motor mount. I definitely have a lot of engine movement. But, I don't know if this is the cause to my problem due to the fact that when the engine warms up, it goes away. I'm going to check the TPS tonight and see if it is within specs.

Edit: Just checked TPS. It's within specs.

 

If the mount is bad, movement is not temp dependent.

 

O yeah! I had to throw an advertising plug in there. Since he goin to the store might as well pick up a bottle. Cant help myself when it comes to the chevron hehe

How many miles on the max? Im thinkin u may have that GL-5 in there. Or u may have a aftermarket clutch in there w/ 6 puck rather than stock 4. THats why it only responds normally after reachin operating temp.

Jus some ideas...

Dont think its motor mounts.

 

High idle when cold=more erratic. Change the motor mounts if there bad and go from there.

 

Well, I just put Amsoil GL-4 in my tranny. I still have the same problem. Does anyone know of a way to use the sound check on the rear injectors under the UIM? They're hard to get to. I might have to hand this one over to my mechanic...starting to run out of ideas