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Finally trying to get rid of P0420!!!!

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Old Sep 22, 2010 | 09:02 PM
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Finally trying to get rid of P0420!!!!

I have had this code now for about a year and was ignoring it but lately I been getting real tired of that darn light and now really want to get rid of it..I didn't get the code until after I installed my headers and y-pipe. I tried the non-fouler method but that didn't work and its still in there. So it seems like the only other option now is to try the o2 sims but my question is how to wire it up because the only how-to i seen up here was the one for the 5.5 gen Cali spec and I have a 2000 fed spec. I would really like to hear from someone with the same spec that has successfully installed the simulator or if you generally know how to install to chime in on this thread it would be greatly appreciated. If you have or could make a write-up that would be great!
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 09:48 PM
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Should be a single output O2 sim.
Old Sep 22, 2010 | 10:40 PM
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like he said. i have a non cali 2k3 and it was simple straightforward and effective. everything is accessible right from the front of the motor bro.
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 07:20 AM
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I just want to make sure Im splicing the right wires together, I hear some say that the wire colors are different and I only have 2 plugs for my o2 so do I splice into the second one? the one to the right when im standing in front of the motor?
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 08:34 AM
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not to jack but I was thinking of using some sims to do these work??

http://cgi.ebay.com/Universal-O2-Sim...item3a5e4994b3

will I pass inspection and are they detectable during inspection??


if not witch ones will work
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 1997MAXZ
not to jack but I was thinking of using some sims to do these work??

http://cgi.ebay.com/Universal-O2-Sim...item3a5e4994b3

will I pass inspection and are they detectable during inspection??


if not witch ones will work
I tried that on my car. It is called a non-fouler and it didn't work for my car but it may work for yours..
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 08:53 AM
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the o2 simulator didnt work for me...i had a dual output, but i have it on one o2 sensor..i dont know/doubt it has any effect on it working efficiently, but i hope that helps. btw mine is fed spec as well
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Tee00Max
I tried that on my car. It is called a non-fouler and it didn't work for my car but it may work for yours..

ok, cheap enough to try but is it detectable?
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by phatboislim
the o2 simulator didnt work for me...i had a dual output, but i have it on one o2 sensor..i dont know/doubt it has any effect on it working efficiently, but i hope that helps. btw mine is fed spec as well
so how did you ever get rid of the code? or is it still present?
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by 1997MAXZ
ok, cheap enough to try but is it detectable?
detectable through what inspection? I doubt it...
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Tee00Max
so how did you ever get rid of the code? or is it still present?
i still have the code...but right now i'm going to start working on getting rid of the misfire code, i'm not so much worried about the light anymore..i've had it since i've had teh car so its like, if its gone...ill miss something now lol
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 11:13 AM
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yeah im trying to fix mine before it comes time for inspection here in NC
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 11:13 AM
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i'm fortunate about inspection...sucks about that up there
Old Sep 23, 2010 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by phatboislim
i'm fortunate about inspection...sucks about that up there
Sux worse then you could imagine. I don't get how think a car will not be as efficient as it was new as time goes by. Besides its not like smoke and smog pour out of my car even with a cel.
Old Sep 24, 2010 | 02:56 PM
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Yea so its no need to get the dual, I should get the single??
Old Sep 24, 2010 | 09:08 PM
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So I ordered my single-output o2 sim and I just want to make sure im going to install on the right harness..the picture is my FED spec and I would be installing the sim on the far right harness in order to clear but the P0420?

Old Sep 25, 2010 | 04:41 AM
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yea sorry about the no response...theres no need to get a dual..i didnt know how they looked in essence, but thought i could hook up two sensors to shut off the light, but it didnt...so a single, if it works, should work just as effectively.

as far as hooking it up, i did mine straight where the sensor itself is.
Old Sep 25, 2010 | 06:45 AM
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oooo ok so you basically did yours under the car? I have to get up under there and see exactly where the harness is..
Old Sep 25, 2010 | 07:04 AM
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yea...i just spliced into the o2 sensor itself..i was trying to save the not messing up the harness, just the sensor wiring, if you catch what i was trying to do
Old Sep 25, 2010 | 08:23 AM
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yeah i understand...Im going to have to get up under the car and see what my spacing is looking like, did you splice closer to the sensor itself or close towards the harness? and even though i understand you installed where the sensor itself was, am I still right in the harness location in the picture I posted?
Old Sep 25, 2010 | 08:35 AM
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yea thats where the harness location is. and yea i i spliced close to the o2 sensor
Old Sep 25, 2010 | 08:46 AM
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Hey man thanks for the help..i just went outside and I looked at the harness on the right and pulled back the insulation and the color wires are:

left harness: white, red/yellow, red/blue
right harness: white, black, grey, red/green

Im looking up different directions here on the ORG and im getting mixed wire colors to where to install the sim too..
Old Sep 25, 2010 | 09:01 AM
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there is a write up for ours (fed spec 5th gen)...ill have to find it again, ill hit you up
Old Sep 25, 2010 | 12:25 PM
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ok yeah i been trying to find one but it seems like all I can find are cali specs since feds are rare..
Old Sep 26, 2010 | 08:53 AM
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anyone fed spec that successfully installed an o2 sim?
Old Sep 26, 2010 | 09:07 AM
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Have you tried replacing the front pre-cat? This will take care of the code IF you have already tried replacing the affected O2 sensor and it didn't go away.

I know there are aftermarket pre-cats available and have seen a few threads on this. It might make your life easier versus figuring our the O2 sensor and you really have eliminated the problem, versus masking the problem.

Might be worth a check....

Ryan
Old Sep 26, 2010 | 09:09 AM
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I have a fed spec with headers and y-pipe so I dont have a pre-cat...
Old Sep 26, 2010 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Tee00Max
I have a fed spec with headers and y-pipe so I dont have a pre-cat...
Ah, well nevermind then!
Old Sep 26, 2010 | 09:11 PM
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which o2 simulators are you guys using?
Old Sep 26, 2010 | 09:25 PM
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I ordered a single-output sim from o2sim.com
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 08:48 AM
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There's only one downstream sensor on the Fed spec, so you just need to confirm that is the one, although it appears correct. If you want, trace the wiring down to make sure it is the one that corresponds to the Bank 1, Sensor 2 in this diagram.



If you could, take a look at what color the wires are going from the connector in the direction of the ECM, from there, it'll be easier to help you. If I'm reading the FSM correctly, the wires should be:

Red/yellow - power
Pink/blue - heater circuit signal
White - signal
Black - ground

If those correspond to what you have, you should be able to follow the rest of my writeup. Basically, you tap the power and ground, intercept the signal from the O2 sensor, and leave the heater wire untouched (and the sensor plugged in). Let me know if you have any questions.
Old Sep 28, 2010 | 07:31 PM
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just doubled up on the non-foulers, when i first did it I only had the one drilled one installed and the code came back so right now I installed a non-drilled one on top of it and in the process in seeing if the code comes back.

*side note, I might have a single-output o2 sim for sale if this works*
Old Sep 30, 2010 | 06:46 PM
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So to give a quick update. So I put the extra non-fouler on the o2 since they say you need 2 and I only had 1, installed that yesterday, reset the ECU and drove 60 miles today and the SES light pops back on. So I got the car scanned and the code was P0134 (02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank I Sensor 1). So the non-fouler must have pulled the o2 sensor back too far to where its not reading or the o2 sensor is bad. So i wanted to take a look at the wires since I have my o2 sim coming in the mail either tomorrow or Saturday, I pulled back the wires from the o2 sensor and the color wires I seen were: white, white, grey, black. The harness runs through the car and under the seat.

So my questions are what wires do I tap into with the o2 sim?
Old Sep 30, 2010 | 09:01 PM
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I just really wanna hear someone that has installed an o2 sim on a fed spec on the rear o2 sensor...anybody??????
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 06:37 AM
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P0134 (02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank I Sensor 1).

Please understand that you have to put the non-fouler on BankXSensor2 (secondary). The BankXSensor1 (primary) is used for fuel metering and you do not mess with it. Your code suggests that you have bad primary sensor on bank 1 which is closer to the firewall.

Start from scratch again. Make sure you are not putting non-fouler on the wrong sensor. Make sure all connections are good. If that code comes back, you need a new primary sensor. Make sure you buy only Denso or NGK/NTK i.e. don't buy Bosch. Pay little more and pick up OEM sensor which you don't have to cut wires.

- Vikas
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 07:26 AM
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Yea I have the non-foulers on the one after the cat. It weird because that code didn't come up until I used the non-foulers. So maybe the non-foulers are doing their job on the o2 after the cat but now all of a sudden, one of my primary's go out...smh.
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 08:32 AM
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im going to ride for a little longer and see if the non-foulers cleared up my P0420 code and if the P0134 code is still there, then im going to go ahead and replace the o2 and hopefully ill be good, hopefully
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 09:08 AM
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If you can get a scanner with live data capability, you will know for sure if the primary is switching or not. I will not change a sensor without verifying that.
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 09:11 AM
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yeah i really dont know where I can get access to that from, is their any other way I can test it without that? I just want to make sure, before I go out and speng $100+ on a o2 sensor.
Old Oct 1, 2010 | 11:54 AM
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You can swap the both front sensors and see if the error follows the sensor. Make sure the wire lengths are adequate. I am not sure about that though.

Do you want to take a chance on $100 O2 sensor or invest $100 in a scanner? You decide!

- Vikas



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