I drove my cousins '11 335xi the other day and I know it's not in the same category as an old Maxima but it had a really tight and responsive steering feel to it. It was really nice - just turning the wheel a little it snappy. In my car, a little turn of the wheel does next to nothing compared to the 335.

Is there anything that can be done to improve response?? And I don't mean like get new tires or adjust this or adjust that I mean like maybe something crazy like swapping the 350z steering rack or something (doubt that's possible, but just pulling stuff out of my ***). Something that would reduce the play in the wheel.

 

Once you drive a BMW, it's hard to find any car that feels so responsive to drive...

 

I guess so, but there has to be something that can be done to tighten up our cars' steering response, no?

 

I drive the 335's and 328's everyday.
You should try one with Active Steering, even bigger difference!

The 49/51% weight distribution helps the bimmer's handling a lot too, you just can't get there in a FWD car like our Max's. But for the price difference, the Max is the best value....

 

Having my car severely lowered, and a bit of negative camber dialed in, along with a FSTB and RSB have made my steering feel pretty snappy and responsive.

Replacing any worn suspension parts (tie rod ends, endlinks, sway bar bushings, etc.) will also really help.

But yes, compared to my sister's 325i, and the IS300 I had, the steering is still pretty noodley.

 

Noodley? Hahahah, I like that, pretty much sums it up.
THe RSB made a huge difference in how my Max handles, but it will never be a BMW...

I sell those for a living, BTW, so if you need a So Cal hookup to buy a bimmer, let me know.

 

Yeah, our solid rear axle doesn't help much. I'm sure with a little R&D, and a lot (see: too much) modification, it could be turned into an independent setup. But I don't see the point in pursuing that unless you've absolutely got your heart set on doing heavy road-course racing with the Max. In which case, I'd just get a 350z, or VQ swap a Sentra SE-R Spec-V.

Feel like sending me an M3?

 

Every time I jumped back in my E46, even that it was complately stock, I knew that no matter what I do to my cars they will never handle like that... but put it this was when pay close $40K for a 3 series you expect that to be included....

 

I took a thrill ride in a 2002 Z8 the other day with a customer. It didn't just put a smile on my face, it outright made me laugh.

If I bought BMW, I would take a HUGE hit in depreciation every year, as I drive about 40,000 miles a year. I'll have over 200k on my Max in 3 years, probably take a 4500 loss compared to what I paid. If it was a bimmer, would be a $30,000 loss.

 

So, you're already planning to sell?

 

I figured at about 225,000 mile it would self-destruct.

 

If you jump on NYCMaximas, there is an aluminum steering column bushing being made. Search it up. I will be ordering one soon.

 

Looks like a PITA.

Try making a custom rear tower brace where you attach the two sides (by the trunk entry).

 

I have the Stillen Rear Sturt Tower Bar and it was a bit of an improvement in my opinion, but not to the level of a BMW.

 

Compairing a BMW's steering/suspension to the 5th gen Maxima is like compairing Apples to an Onion. There's both round, yet completely different.

 

I found it, but hate the idea of cutting the cover.

 

Look into getting a RSB, that tightens up the rear quite a bit. Subframe connectors & ES subframe bushings as well.

 

Energy Suspension bushings on the Front Sway Bar to the frame.

Simple mod, for only $25. Your steering will feel like new.

If you have a 9 year old car, you're due for this.

 

LTB Stage 2

 

new inner tie rod ends. and end links. OEM parts fail too early. Buy moog and see a world of difference.

 

Cause anything directly steering related would be easy to install...

RSTB won't do too much for our cars. Aside from all the ES bushings, and tie bars, I think the steering column bushing should make a good difference. I'll report back when I get one.

 

A little bit of toe out up front will also increase steering response.

 

New suspension bushings, front upper strut bar, larger rear anti-roll bar and performance struts and springs will really tighten up the handling. Still won't be quite BMW like, even if everything else was equal because they are RWD and our cars are FWD and have more weight over the front tires.

Larger wheels with lower profile tires will also quicken the steering response.

 

Sorry but once you drive Germany car , driving a Japaneese car wont ever be the same.

a Z will not work , the suspension isnt anywhere close to a BMW

 

Well, whoop-di-doo. There's plenty of BMW love going on in the OT.

But here... you rock with the car you have, or you get something else and move on.

 

This is probably the most you can do other than changing the steering ratio which would be the best method if one had the resources

 

I've driven both a 3-series and a 350z, surprisingly enough. I prefer, by far, the feel and response of the Z to my sister's 325i.

Just saying...

 

the Z and the 3 series are two completely different cars.... now if you compare the Z series from Nissan and BMW that's a different story....

 

yeahhh.

 

Too much BMW nut huggery going on in here

 

The guy I quoted didn't say what kind of BMW. Just "BMW" as a generalization. That's why I said what I did. I've driven a few German cars that actually handle worse than our cars.

I'd still take a Nissan Z over a BMW Z. I think the BMWs are hideous-looking. Also, see: Midlife crisis vehicles.

 

Lower Tie Bar
0 toe out
a little -1.5* of camber
plus replace bushings, do a nice spring/strut setup or coilovers

You should feel a huge improvement, I know I did

 

Dave's about right on the mark.

Honestly, when I dropped my Ksports onto my Maxima, it felt like a totally different car. Much tighter feel to the front end, and the car felt like it wanted to stay planted much more readily on sharp, sudden turns.

My IS300 was still the best-handling car I've ever driven, though.

 

Before I started to overhaul my max 4 years ago, I had all the suspension upgrade that was available at that time and the car was much more tight that it has ever been. All the suspension mods added give you a little more each time. One of the most incredible imods was the Lower tie bar 2, along with the coil over and the ES bushing with the usual FSTB and RSB, I think if you add a subframe connector that would be the best the max can be, unless a complete suspension re-design is done but that would be far from being cheap.

The way I have modified my max, i think it's going to be the ultimate set-up. As some may know I have cut & removed the spare wheel well, we have boxed the rear end with 1" square tubing, put 2 muffler in the rear and relocated the battery in the trunk, this weight distribution is going to help a lot since just the battery is what like 40 lbs + the tubing wich is easily another 15 lbs and the second muffler with the piping probably another 15-20 lbs.

 

Confused. Pics?

 

I already have coilovers and the car handles really well, it's just that the wheel is too "soft", I think that is the best way I can put it. Just too much play in the wheel before the car actually responds. I'm sure all the suggestions in this thread are great, I just wanted to tighten the steering up more.