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Brake Lines recommendations

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Old Dec 8, 2010 | 02:21 PM
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Brake Lines recommendations

Sup all, excuse my ignorance, but other than building engine, turbo and all that, theres a couple things I am clueless about, thats brakes, and suspension.

Just now I saw liquid leaking from behind my front tires and turns out to be brake fluid coming from the top. So automatically I am assuming its the rubber 14year old line that cracked/broke (ofcourse ill inspect further later).

But my question is, what do you guys recommend as a replacement for all four lines? What are good quality SS or ruber lines available now days (im scared about ss from past horror stories on here). Any advice will be appreciated.
Old Dec 9, 2010 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by streetzlegend
Sup all, excuse my ignorance, but other than building engine, turbo and all that, theres a couple things I am clueless about, thats brakes, and suspension.

Just now I saw liquid leaking from behind my front tires and turns out to be brake fluid coming from the top. So automatically I am assuming its the rubber 14year old line that cracked/broke (ofcourse ill inspect further later).

But my question is, what do you guys recommend as a replacement for all four lines? What are good quality SS or ruber lines available now days (im scared about ss from past horror stories on here). Any advice will be appreciated.
Goodrich makes a decent set for the A32 but they want around $120 or so. I used the Goodrich lines for years on the car and never had any issues, even when running on the road course. Two few years ago I did the 300ZX BBK converstion so I bought some 240SX to 300ZX caliper conversion SS lines off of ebay. Forget which company made them but they have worked fine so far.
Old Dec 9, 2010 | 06:23 PM
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check the master cylinder and caliper first... Most likely not the lines..
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 02:36 PM
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Turned out to be the caliper. Man i was so disappointed this morning, saw a second puddle, damn power steering hose somehow got loose over the years. Also see some liquid dropping right at the end of the tranny near the steering rack, I cant tell if its powersteering fluid, or brake fluid.
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 03:25 PM
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Ive seen a few 4th gens come to sears for calipers..
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 04:15 PM
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Goodrich SS lines for 8yrs - not a single problem. I'd buy em just for the ability to hang calipers safely when doing work. Stillen's got em for $108 in fact (and they get cheaper at their annual sale each year).
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by BEJAY1
Goodrich SS lines for 8yrs - not a single problem. I'd buy em just for the ability to hang calipers safely when doing work. Stillen's got em for $108 in fact (and they get cheaper at their annual sale each year).
Nice! good to know. For now i just replaced the calipers, I def will be upgrading to SS after holidays. For some reason my passanger side wheel likes to lockup or provide more braking than the driver. Dont know why.
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 04:51 PM
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Thats a caliper issue why it locks up..
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by stillpimpin
Thats a caliper issue why it locks up..
They are both new though.
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 06:41 PM
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Ive gotten bad new one before, but usually the only way to tell if the new one is bad is if they dont bleed correctly..
Old Dec 10, 2010 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by stillpimpin
Ive gotten bad new one before, but usually the only way to tell if the new one is bad is if they dont bleed correctly..
Actually now that I remember, that side has always had more braking power. What else can cause this?
Old Dec 11, 2010 | 06:10 AM
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You have to remember the line are not equal length and takes time to travel through the lines..
Old Dec 11, 2010 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by stillpimpin
You have to remember the line are not equal length and takes time to travel through the lines..
I guess thats where ABS is needed to distribute the pressure/flow evenly. I gotta hook my ABS back up since i have it disabled because one of the speed/abs sensors failed.
Old Dec 11, 2010 | 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by stillpimpin
You have to remember the line are not equal length and takes time to travel through the lines..
huh? don't talk when you don't know WTF you're talking about.
tell me how a line completely full of an uncompressible fluid takes time to propagate through a hose? that's just dumb talk. :matt93se:

All of the SS line failures I've ever seen have all been to user installation errors- rubbing against a body part or the inside of the wheel or something like that. The lines on my Maxima are 10+ years old and still working fine.

Goodridge and Technafit are both good quality parts and work great. used both for years and installed 50+ sets (and sold hundreds of sets) and never had a single line fail that was installed correctly.
Old Dec 11, 2010 | 05:55 PM
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I never said nuttin about lines failing.. All I was trying to explain is if you look at different cars the majority of the have one side with less pad than the other.. It probably came out wrong but you know what im talking about...
Old Dec 11, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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Actually I have no clue what you're talking about. the only time unequal line lengths are an issue is when you're bleeding brakes. you have to bleed the rears longer than the fronts because the lines are long and there's more fluid.

any other reason- propagation delay, uneven pad wear, etc, is just silly talk.
The reason pads wear unevenly is usually due to calipers sticking in one way, shape, or form. the line can be collapsed and not letting all the pressure out, which will cause the pads to drag on one side and they'll wear more than the other side.

if you have a bad/siezed slider pin, they can also cause issues with uneven pad wear, warped rotors, and all kinds of other fun stuff.
Old Dec 12, 2010 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by streetzlegend
Actually now that I remember, that side has always had more braking power. What else can cause this?
The car pulling to one side under braking could be a bad caliper on one side, sticking slider pins, or your alignment can be out of whack. Toe, camber, SAI, and scrub radius are the ones that can cause pretty bad brake pull to one side if they are uneven.

Also when I used the 300ZX master cylinder with the 300ZX BBK and didn't revalve the lines properly the car would pull to the right very heavily when the ABS was shut off. After re-routing the lines the brake pressure was even on the front calipers and the car stopped straight.
Old Dec 13, 2010 | 09:08 PM
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Thanks for all the tips guys, I am going to re-bleed all corners. Although after alignment being mentioned, I am pretty sure that is the case.
Old Dec 16, 2010 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by streetzlegend
Thanks for all the tips guys, I am going to re-bleed all corners. Although after alignment being mentioned, I am pretty sure that is the case.
Just fyi, I have extra set of new rear SS if you need them. That way just order fronts and save some cash.
But really, these are all things that should have been taken care of before engine and turbo projects. Too much basic maintenance is overlooked for mods!
Old Dec 17, 2010 | 02:01 AM
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basic maintenance never ends ...so what never mod till you replace everything in a car???? not
Old Dec 18, 2010 | 07:02 AM
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the point is to make the car run RIGHT before you make it run fast...

Too many kids go "I need my timing belt changed and I want new rims, but I only have $800.. I think I'll buy rims."
Old Jan 7, 2011 | 11:06 AM
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Thanks for the brake line info..
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