My girlfriend is now the owner of this car for almost a year now(97 Max). She could not get it started this morning. It is pretty cold out -16C, but was never any trouble starting before. It starts for a little then slowly idles down and stalls. Its an automatic and giving it gas does not help. I took a bit of time out of work and checked it out. Everything seemed normal plugs in tight, no loose/broken wires. Anyway I only had about 20 minutes to check it out. I got some codes P0130-02 sensor bank 1, sensor1. P0135-sensor heater malfunction bank 1, sensor 1, and P0325-knock sensor. Im thinking these are all related and its probably the 02 sensor. The wire(s) for the sensor were cut and cramped (to add length) when I switched the y-pipe. Could the wires for bank 1, sensor1 cause the car not to start at a cold temp? I also read that it might not be able to enter closed loop mode or something that is needed for cold starts, and that is why it starts for a bit but then stalls out. Any help is appreciated. Thanks

 

Because the O2 sensor signal is analog and relatively low level, the signal and ground wires should be soldered if extened to prevent resistance between the crimp terminals and wires from changing the voltage. However, I do not think this is the problem for two reasons:

1. the car will not enter closed-loop and use the O2 sensors to adjust the AFR until it warms up. If it never gets warm, it never uses the O2 sensors.
2. Even if the O2 sensors are disconnected, the car will revert to a default air/fuel map. It will still run, it will just not maintain 14.7 AFR (that is, enter closed loop) because it can't sense what the AFR is.

Additionally, the crimping of the wires would not cause problems in the O2 sensor heater circuit if the crimps are done correctly. This is a relatively high power circuit that would not be affected by the small voltage offset that could be introduced by using crimp terminals.

Get yourself some solder (try to find rosin-core, it's the only type of solder that should be used on wire), a soldering iron and some heat shrink tubing (Radio Shack) and redo the splices in the O2 wires that way so you know that it is done right and can rule that out.

When it starts, does it start right up or is it hard to start? Once started how long before the rpms fall off and it dies? Also, thoroughly search the forum. There should be a lot of recent cold start problem threads because it is the middle of winter.

 

im completley ignoring the codes on this thought. but seems like a symptom of a vacuum leak

 

In addition to ajm8127's 2 questions.
1) When starting previously was the weather as cold?
2) When you give it gas does it respond at all? If so how?
3) Did any codes exist before this problem arose? If so which ones?

I agree with ajm8127 about it not being the O2. IF you think that is a problem, test the circuit with a meter and then do as he directed (soldering job). He also gave some great advice on using the search function.

 

u try giving it a jump? If its -16 deg C, that is pretty cold. do u have an engine warmer?

 

*moved to "this thread."*

 

You should try this thread.