Anyone have pics of Tokico HP Blues shocks and springs setup on their car?
Anyone have pics of Tokico HP Blues shocks and springs setup on their car?
If you have pics with tokico HP Blues setup please post pics!!! Preferably, I would like to see them with the 2003 Maxima SE 5 spoke Wheels. I just wanna get an idea of the look. Thx.
IMO, these are the best factory wheels that look good on a 4th Gen. Take a look @ my profile and you will see my car on 5th Gen wheels. I'm looking to get the Tokico HP Blues shocks and springs combo. I wanna see how they look, post pics. Anybody!
Yeah man, I went through the drops picture thread and I saw a whole bunch of cars but, only about 3 cars had the "FULL" Tokico HP Blues Setup, and NONE had them with the 5th gen SE wheels. Thats why I'm requesting pics.
Well look at it this way...the blues still give u good ride quality. If u drop too low the ride is gonna suck and if u got potholes in yur city then driving becomes a chore.
An agressive drop is cool on a show car, but not as a DD.
The blues kit gonna drop it a lil bit, provide good quality ride, and look good.
The max aint no ricer car. its nissan's flagship car and isnt meant to be slammed. It aint no honda man.
O u gettin specific man lol.
Well look at it this way...the blues still give u good ride quality. If u drop too low the ride is gonna suck and if u got potholes in yur city then driving becomes a chore.
An agressive drop is cool on a show car, but not as a DD.
The blues kit gonna drop it a lil bit, provide good quality ride, and look good.
The max aint no ricer car. its nissan's flagship car and isnt meant to be slammed. It aint no honda man.
Well look at it this way...the blues still give u good ride quality. If u drop too low the ride is gonna suck and if u got potholes in yur city then driving becomes a chore.
An agressive drop is cool on a show car, but not as a DD.
The blues kit gonna drop it a lil bit, provide good quality ride, and look good.
The max aint no ricer car. its nissan's flagship car and isnt meant to be slammed. It aint no honda man.

For the sake of all noob kind…
First off, some definitions:
Spring – A coil, usually metal, that exerts force against compression and returns to its original shape after being compressed.
Shock (formally a ‘shock absorber’) – A device used to slow, inhibit rapid movement and resist sudden force.
Strut – A shock and spring combined that is specifically designed to also absorb side load eliminated the need for an upper control arm.
Coilover – A shock and spring assembly where the coil/‘spirals’ of the spring (en)circle the shock (go around it/ you could say the shock is inside/in the middle of the spring). The coilover is designed as a single unit so the two parts compliment each other functionally. (*ebay see bottom).
Adjustable Coilover – One or both ends of the ‘tube’ the shock sits and and the spring sits on will be threaded and employ a ‘color’/nut [which should sit below, but sometimes is] the spring perch. (*ebay see below)
Understanding springs and shocks... for cars:
Springs:
-The springs are the only thing holding your car off the ground. If you removed them, the shocks (all that is left) would simply collapse until mechanical stop. Your car would then pull itself along the pavement like a snake.
-As a spring compresses it exerts pushes in the opposite direction (see Newton's Law). The stronger/stiffer/'heavier' the spring is, the more it will resist being collapsed. If take buy two springs that have the same constant as the ones I own now but one is shorter and the other longer, my car will compensate by sitting higher or lower. The longer spring will simply lift the car higher and, respectively, the shorter will lower it. However, because all 3 springs have the same rate, I will not notice a difference in the 'ride'.
-By tempering a coil of metal in different manners we can effect both the yield point and elasticity coefficient (among other parameters). Using this 'technique' we can effect the rate of the spring or 'spring constant' (see Hooke's Law). Elasticity is what we call the ability of the spring to be compressed while going back to its original shape. The yield point is how far you can compress the spring before it no longer will go back to its original shape (the deformation being plasticity).
Shocks
-Springs make things bouncy and something needs to prevent them from making you car sick. Every time your car attempts to collapse the spring the shock will try to keep it from moving too fast. If we have soft springs (low spring rate) we want a soft shock. That way the car can float around like a grannymobile. If we have stiff springs obviously we want stiff shocks.
-You might often hear that if you get a 'lowering spring' you will have to buy new shocks or you will blow your OEMs. A shorter spring will usually have a higher spring rate. This way your car will not hit the ground. Since the car is lower to the ground you now have a shorter distance your vehicle can move down toward the ground and back up. This distance is known as the travel.
-With an adjustable shock you can choose to let your car bounce or tie the suspension down. In this way you can choose whether you want your car to bounce or ride flat. The more momentary load you put on the shock by stiffening the faster you will wear the shock out. There is an equilibrium where you are making the spring do its job and the shock do its part. If you are acute to changes in your car's handling you will notice differences in handling based on the type and parameters of the shock. It gets pretty complex with all the things they can change to make huge effects. Because there are so many varieties and I am getting really tired I will have to continue later (if I remember) or you will have to search for info.
*disclaimer* If you want to know the technical definition of the terms I used, go ahead and look it up. For reasons of simplicity and understanding I will write in layman’s terminology (and used the said terms generally).
*ebay disclaimer* The scrub noobs from ebay...:
...Will sell you a cheap set up, it is also a cheap set up... Post more: “is this a good combo,” “has anyone tried these,” “how do these compare to coilovers I have to pay a legitimate price for?” You get what you pay for people; buyer beware.
...Sell “coilovers” that do not match the above descriptions… they are wrong, not me. Make sure your shocks match your springs.
...Will also sell you an adjustable coilover without an adjustable shock. Logic would state they should always be paired together. As you change the parameters of the spring, you should then mirror that adjustment on your shock.
First off, some definitions:
Spring – A coil, usually metal, that exerts force against compression and returns to its original shape after being compressed.
Shock (formally a ‘shock absorber’) – A device used to slow, inhibit rapid movement and resist sudden force.
Strut – A shock and spring combined that is specifically designed to also absorb side load eliminated the need for an upper control arm.
Coilover – A shock and spring assembly where the coil/‘spirals’ of the spring (en)circle the shock (go around it/ you could say the shock is inside/in the middle of the spring). The coilover is designed as a single unit so the two parts compliment each other functionally. (*ebay see bottom).
Adjustable Coilover – One or both ends of the ‘tube’ the shock sits and and the spring sits on will be threaded and employ a ‘color’/nut [which should sit below, but sometimes is] the spring perch. (*ebay see below)
Understanding springs and shocks... for cars:
Springs:
-The springs are the only thing holding your car off the ground. If you removed them, the shocks (all that is left) would simply collapse until mechanical stop. Your car would then pull itself along the pavement like a snake.
-As a spring compresses it exerts pushes in the opposite direction (see Newton's Law). The stronger/stiffer/'heavier' the spring is, the more it will resist being collapsed. If take buy two springs that have the same constant as the ones I own now but one is shorter and the other longer, my car will compensate by sitting higher or lower. The longer spring will simply lift the car higher and, respectively, the shorter will lower it. However, because all 3 springs have the same rate, I will not notice a difference in the 'ride'.
-By tempering a coil of metal in different manners we can effect both the yield point and elasticity coefficient (among other parameters). Using this 'technique' we can effect the rate of the spring or 'spring constant' (see Hooke's Law). Elasticity is what we call the ability of the spring to be compressed while going back to its original shape. The yield point is how far you can compress the spring before it no longer will go back to its original shape (the deformation being plasticity).
Shocks
-Springs make things bouncy and something needs to prevent them from making you car sick. Every time your car attempts to collapse the spring the shock will try to keep it from moving too fast. If we have soft springs (low spring rate) we want a soft shock. That way the car can float around like a grannymobile. If we have stiff springs obviously we want stiff shocks.
-You might often hear that if you get a 'lowering spring' you will have to buy new shocks or you will blow your OEMs. A shorter spring will usually have a higher spring rate. This way your car will not hit the ground. Since the car is lower to the ground you now have a shorter distance your vehicle can move down toward the ground and back up. This distance is known as the travel.
-With an adjustable shock you can choose to let your car bounce or tie the suspension down. In this way you can choose whether you want your car to bounce or ride flat. The more momentary load you put on the shock by stiffening the faster you will wear the shock out. There is an equilibrium where you are making the spring do its job and the shock do its part. If you are acute to changes in your car's handling you will notice differences in handling based on the type and parameters of the shock. It gets pretty complex with all the things they can change to make huge effects. Because there are so many varieties and I am getting really tired I will have to continue later (if I remember) or you will have to search for info.
*disclaimer* If you want to know the technical definition of the terms I used, go ahead and look it up. For reasons of simplicity and understanding I will write in layman’s terminology (and used the said terms generally).
*ebay disclaimer* The scrub noobs from ebay...:
...Will sell you a cheap set up, it is also a cheap set up... Post more: “is this a good combo,” “has anyone tried these,” “how do these compare to coilovers I have to pay a legitimate price for?” You get what you pay for people; buyer beware.
...Sell “coilovers” that do not match the above descriptions… they are wrong, not me. Make sure your shocks match your springs.
...Will also sell you an adjustable coilover without an adjustable shock. Logic would state they should always be paired together. As you change the parameters of the spring, you should then mirror that adjustment on your shock.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lakersallday24
6th Generation Maxima (2004-2008)
10
Jun 16, 2019 01:35 AM
Finkle
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
13
Sep 27, 2015 09:53 PM
MAXSE5SPD
Other For Sale/Wanted
2
Aug 23, 2015 12:06 PM
Greenmaxspeed
4th Generation Classifieds (1995-1999)
0
Aug 8, 2015 12:39 PM





