15.3 @ 90...Not happy
15.3 @ 90...Not happy
Went to the local drag strip tonight and could not run a decide time at all.
Best time slip:
reaction- 0.37 sec
60 ft- 2.31 sec
1/8th- 9.91 sec @ 73.5
1000 ft- 12.85 sec @ 82.57
1/4th- 15.36 sec @ 89.7
This is a auto 02 with just intake, BOP, and spacers minus lim
Why are the times so slow. Even DA corrected is only a 14.8 @ 94.
I did beat a 03 gt mustang and there was a new aura tl only running 16.3
Input is much appreciated
Best time slip:
reaction- 0.37 sec
60 ft- 2.31 sec
1/8th- 9.91 sec @ 73.5
1000 ft- 12.85 sec @ 82.57
1/4th- 15.36 sec @ 89.7
This is a auto 02 with just intake, BOP, and spacers minus lim
Why are the times so slow. Even DA corrected is only a 14.8 @ 94.
I did beat a 03 gt mustang and there was a new aura tl only running 16.3
Input is much appreciated
Cars run slower in KS, didn't notice it until I did some comparison videos up there and down here.
You can't rely solely on a formula to compare how your car is performing, DA corrections are guesstimates pretty much as useful as Bench racing with dyno sheets... it's not.
I improved by .4 when I went from KS to TX and no the DA correction did NOT show that, and my '60 ft's and shifting still wasn't that great.
You can't rely solely on a formula to compare how your car is performing, DA corrections are guesstimates pretty much as useful as Bench racing with dyno sheets... it's not.
I improved by .4 when I went from KS to TX and no the DA correction did NOT show that, and my '60 ft's and shifting still wasn't that great.
Yeah must just be Kansas. I have done some research of the other guys there last night and there was a Chrysler 300c srt8 running mid 14s and a supercharger hhr running mid 14s as well. Also a neon srt4, not stock running 17. Granted he wasn't the best drive but still slow.
I wonder why the times in Kansas are so poor? The altitude is only 1335 ft and the weather last night was low 80s.
Maybe i just need a turbo?
I wonder why the times in Kansas are so poor? The altitude is only 1335 ft and the weather last night was low 80s.
Maybe i just need a turbo?
The track isn't the best but I don't believe i was ever spinning.
As far as i could tell the track is basically flat.
Maybe a dyno is needed to just determine if the car is down on power or really is just Kansas.
I was managing 2.3 60' on street tires at 31 psi without launching
As far as i could tell the track is basically flat.
Maybe a dyno is needed to just determine if the car is down on power or really is just Kansas.
I was managing 2.3 60' on street tires at 31 psi without launching
Yeah i think it was just the track. Last night the same track was hooking and allowing stock 00-04 mustang gt run low to mid 14s. Even a ford edge managed a 16 flat
What should be my next mods excluding headers(dad wont let me) ?
What should be my next mods excluding headers(dad wont let me) ?
The track isn't the best but I don't believe i was ever spinning.
As far as i could tell the track is basically flat.
Maybe a dyno is needed to just determine if the car is down on power or really is just Kansas.
I was managing 2.3 60' on street tires at 31 psi without launching
As far as i could tell the track is basically flat.
Maybe a dyno is needed to just determine if the car is down on power or really is just Kansas.
I was managing 2.3 60' on street tires at 31 psi without launching
You should be able to get atleast 2.1 60fts.

If the front goes up... The rear must go down... Thus your rear struts could be out....

02AutoMax you should come down too! Only an 8hr drive.
Try ES motor mount poly bushings, best mod I ever did for launching. They are about $100 but installing them takes all day. You can either press the old ones out or burn them out. After you get the old core out you have to hacksaw out chunks of the metal ring left behind and then use a cold chisel and a hammer to tap it out. Installing it is quite easy, just coat the new bushing in synthetic grease and press it in with a bench vice.
Last edited by ampire; Sep 1, 2011 at 07:35 AM.
Yeah tell me about it. I am modifying my intake today and hopefully getting 3 inch exhaust and maybe a y pipe (I know should get headers) soon before I go back. Also need to finish installing the spacers. So I'm hoping all that will get me close to 100 mph.
It definitely is low but the 03 mustang gt only managed 92 mph and a 300c srt8(not stock) only managed 101 mph.
It definitely is low but the 03 mustang gt only managed 92 mph and a 300c srt8(not stock) only managed 101 mph.
Yeah thanks to my dad being an engineer he said the thin ones on the LIM wouldn't do much and isn't worth the trouble of taking it apart. So I most likely won't but it would be nice to get the full affect of such a good product.
I make min wage soooooo those headers are out of the question
I make min wage soooooo those headers are out of the question
Yeah thanks to my dad being an engineer he said the thin ones on the LIM wouldn't do much and isn't worth the trouble of taking it apart. So I most likely won't but it would be nice to get the full affect of such a good product.
I make min wage soooooo those headers are out of the question
I make min wage soooooo those headers are out of the question

I got some for my car and they look good.
lol, it's still slow. 
Got the headers, a vafc, a comp stage 4 clutch, and a fidanza flywheel going in. Got the stage 4 clutch so I can eventually spray this ****.
I should be done doing all that in a couple weeks. Then its time to street tune it.
Anyone have a wideband I borrow? lol

Got the headers, a vafc, a comp stage 4 clutch, and a fidanza flywheel going in. Got the stage 4 clutch so I can eventually spray this ****.

I should be done doing all that in a couple weeks. Then its time to street tune it.
Anyone have a wideband I borrow? lol
Yeah thanks to my dad being an engineer he said the thin ones on the LIM wouldn't do much and isn't worth the trouble of taking it apart. So I most likely won't but it would be nice to get the full affect of such a good product.
I make min wage soooooo those headers are out of the question
I make min wage soooooo those headers are out of the question

Also, once the UIM is removed, it only takes an extra 5 minutes to remove the LIM and sit it on the rear valve cover. It's pretty easy to remove since you do not have to relieve fuel pressure or remove the fuel rail or hose. So if you ever have the UIM off in the future again, I would go ahead and install the LIM Spacers you have. It will add a couple/few more HP especially when heat soaked.
And since we just released our 3pc Thermal Intake Spacer Kit for the VQ35DE which doesn't include these two thin LIM Spacers, it will be pretty easy to sell these two Spacers to someone if you aren't interested in installing them. You'll probably be able to get $40 or so for them since our 3pc kit sells for $175 ($50 less than the full kit you got). Just an idea.
Yeah I would probably just get the obx headers if I was going to get a set. But might just stick with a y pipe and 3 inch exhaust. Should see some gains with that plus those are easy install lol
You plan on going to Kansas International anytime soon?
I could meet you there sometime and give you some tips and tricks.
Just let me know when you head to the track and I'll see if I can make it.
The thin NWP LIM Spacers do a lot more than most people think. In our testing, the LIM was 30 degrees cooler than before with just these two thin LIM Spacers. The type of phenolic material we use insulates very well, which prevents the heat from transferring from the heads to the LIM.
Also, once the UIM is removed, it only takes an extra 5 minutes to remove the LIM and sit it on the rear valve cover. It's pretty easy to remove since you do not have to relieve fuel pressure or remove the fuel rail or hose. So if you ever have the UIM off in the future again, I would go ahead and install the LIM Spacers you have. It will add a couple/few more HP especially when heat soaked.
And since we just released our 3pc Thermal Intake Spacer Kit for the VQ35DE which doesn't include these two thin LIM Spacers, it will be pretty easy to sell these two Spacers to someone if you aren't interested in installing them. You'll probably be able to get $40 or so for them since our 3pc kit sells for $175 ($50 less than the full kit you got). Just an idea.
Also, once the UIM is removed, it only takes an extra 5 minutes to remove the LIM and sit it on the rear valve cover. It's pretty easy to remove since you do not have to relieve fuel pressure or remove the fuel rail or hose. So if you ever have the UIM off in the future again, I would go ahead and install the LIM Spacers you have. It will add a couple/few more HP especially when heat soaked.
And since we just released our 3pc Thermal Intake Spacer Kit for the VQ35DE which doesn't include these two thin LIM Spacers, it will be pretty easy to sell these two Spacers to someone if you aren't interested in installing them. You'll probably be able to get $40 or so for them since our 3pc kit sells for $175 ($50 less than the full kit you got). Just an idea.





Cattman Headers=FTW...And what do you have to install for the spacers cause if its only the two thin ones for the lower it isnt going to be a drastic change,but good luck.....