The problem:
Car shakes badly when idle @ low rpm after start, and the engine will eventually stop.



Car starts at 1200 rpm, if I leave it idle like this, it's fine.
but If I want to drive right away after the car starts, I change the gear to D, the rpm will drop to about 700-800 rpm, and engine will stop.

If I let the car run @1200rpm for 5 minutes, then change to D, tap on brake, let it idle at 700rpm,
it will be good for about 30 seconds, the car will shake. Then I have to press the gas to make it to 1200rpm to keep the engine running.

If I tapping the gas let it run @ 1200rpm for 15 minutes, the car will idle fine after that.


The check engine light is on, the traction control is on, the slip is on, and the only code is the P1320. (use to got a code says misfire in cylinder 5)


I changed all the ignition coils( brought from ebay), I cleaned the o2 sensor, the problem is still here.

I don't know what to do next, either are my mechanics.

Can any one here point me a direction ?

or any one can give me a good mechanic recommendation in Vancouver?

Thanks a lot in advance.

 

MAF

 

Thanks Michael

I'll give it a try

I can't find a video on youtube to locate the MAF

where do I find it?

 

Here you go, found this in the 5th Gen How to section, this is a step by step of how to clean it.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...10-w-pics.html

Here is the link to that whole section as well for your future reference

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...t-reviews.html

 

Thanks everyone,

I think I found the problem

Mine is missing a piece in the picture below !!

 

Your not suppose to have that piece in the picture. That is 2002/2003 only. The coils from ebay were a risky choice. Could still be MAF. Whats your miles? Probably due for replacement. About $118 from dealer. I think you still may have a bad coil too. Did you change your plugs too? Did all those lights just come on at once out of the blue?

 

Thanks Guys

I just checked the price for MAF

Nissan Dealer: $635
Lordco : $350



where did u guys get it for $118?

My car has 175,000 KM on it, about 108,000 miles.

For the sensor, mine looks identical to the one in the picture, it does has the 2 small metal pin that holds the wire

Does other 2000 maxima's MAF sensor does not have that metal wire and resister too?

I checked the code, it does not say MAF

 

No 2000 maxima has that metal wire (thermistor). Only 02/03. The prices you are saying are for 02/03. The 2000 maxima MAF is much cheaper.

 

I really appreciate it, 2damax

Then I think I will go get a bottle of cleanser before I buy a new MAFS


BTW, I think it might be the MAF, because my car has a extremely high gas consumption

about 15L per 100k, that's 15.68MPG

 

What is this code? Is it still coming up as a bad coil? If so, still clean your MAF, won't hurt, but you need to take care of the coil issue. Don't just ignore it. You can test them...start the car and unplug each coil one by one. Listen to the engine for a minute, if there is no change in how the engine sounds, you found you bad coil. IE: you pull 1 coil, and idle drops that equals good. You pull 1 coil and no change, that's your bad coil. Check those before you drop money on a MAF.

Ps someone chime in if I wrote that test wrong. That's the best of my recollection.

 

thanks for the input

the only code I got is P1320

I will buy a cleanser after work today and report back

 

What is

"
After putting the MAF back to the car, perform the ECU reset and Idle relearn procedures.
"

in the clean MAF article please?

 

Found the answer myself.

1. disconnect the battery overnight

2.
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...l?ref=esp-link

 

oem maf and coils only or you will be sorry
maf $87 from courtesyparts.com

 

Hi everyone

I tried cleaned the MAF sensor

my car still dies if I drive it right away.

I will let my car discharge from battery one night to do the ECU and air flow reset,

hope magic happens tomorrow

 

I cleaned the MAF again completely.

Now if I drive the car right away, it is shaking @ idle, but it still runs.

CEL, and SLIP, Traction control lights are on, I don't know if everything will be better if it relearned the Idle Air Volume



Worst scenario, I need to get a new MAF

 

Didn't you say the cel was for a coil? Why are you jumping to the MAF and not worrying about that coil pack? Bad coil will make it run like ****. I just read on another forum of people using aftermarket coils and the problem not being fixed until they used OEM Nissan coils. I really think you need to worry more about why the cel is on first, fix that and see how it runs. But its up to you if you.

Did you unplug your coils like I told you To try?

 

alright brother, thanks for your infor

I will unplug the coils and test them tomorrow.

what is inconvenient is I can only test it while the car is cold.

when the car is warmed up, everything is fine.

So after one try, I have to wait at least 8 hours to do an other try....

 

intake manifold gasket... i heard that those go bad and when cold the car will misfire like crazy... once warmed up its ok... might be worth doing a vacuum system leak test

 

Op, may be worth a try of the above post too, but I really think you need to take care of that cel first since it shows bad coils. Maybe you have a bad uim gasket AND bad coils too. But, check those coils....even if its warm, you should still get results by plugging the coils....I say try doing all 6 then report back with what you come up with. Good luck.

 

This could also be the idle control valve. If it's working correctly the valve is constantly adjusting the amount of air entering the engine to maintain a constant idle speed. If it's sticking it can cause the kinds of problems you are having. If you do end up replacing it avoid Napa parts on this one. My replacement failed after 13 months - 1 month after the Napa warranty was up.

 

I finally got a mechanic shop fixed it.

I replaced Coils, MAF, IACV myself

none of them worked....

The real problem is: Air intake gasket are too old, and they are leaking....

$400 damage, + coils, maf, iacv, and time and ....

no... I don't want to think about it any more...

 

^
damn I was going to say leak too because I had the same symptoms.

Mine was a 2002 Maxima and it was due to the NWP spacers installation. Faulty torque wrench screwed up all the correct torque settings

At least you have a ton of preventative maintenance done

 

Too bad this thread's a year old and you already fixed it. If anyone else has this problem... unplg the MAF and start the car. It make take a few tries, but if the MAF is bad, the ECM will see it's not there and will start and run in fail-safe. If the car idles smooth with the MAF unplugged, then the sensor is the problem. If it runs the same, it's probably a vacuum leak which leads to unmetered air being sucked into the motor and produces the same symptoms as a bad MAF.

 

Any way, thanks for all the help here.

I can't change the intake gasket myself, so it will end up in a shop no matter what.

as George said, at least I have a lot of preventative maintenance done.... LOL

 

What garage did you end up going to?

 

MTM in Surrey

 

My car is running rough at idle, but no codes. If I had a bad coil would there be a chance that I wouldn't get a code? I replaced my PCV valve and spark plugs, along with some other very brittle secondary air hoses. I think I have a vacuum leak somewhere but I still get great gas mileage. I'm at 226k miles.