So in order to see whether i'd be fixing my egr i went downstairs and did the old code check via the screw on the ecu. got 9 codes total LOL

0803/p0105 - MAP sensor/circuit fault
0807/p0443 - evap canister purge control valve or circuit fault
1008/p0443 - " " " "
0903/p0446 - evap canister vent control valve or circuit fault
0801/p1441 - vacuum cut by pass valve or circuit fault
1008/p1445 - evap canister purge volume control valve or circuit fault
0804/p1605 - A/T control unit or circuit fault
1305/p1220 - fuel pump control module or circuit fault
0402/p0180 - fuel tank temp sensor/circuit fault

i'm sure the MAP and EVAP crap is related to the 00vi swap (but could they relate to my problem?) and the A/T code is cause the JWT is for an auto but what i'm kinda worried about are the 2 codes related to the fuel pump. a/f's are still good wide open so the fuel pumps still good imo. kinda happy and sad, i don't have to take off the 00vi to what i thought was an egr problem but now i dunno where to look.

its been doing this for the passed 10k km or so. The symptom i have is a crap idle... on cold starts its not that bad, i feather the throttle a bit so it won't die for the first 15 seconds or so and then the IACV "catches" the fast idle. my a/f guage doesn't even register until i give it some gas during the warm up cycle and then after about 2-3 min it'll finally read something and then the a/fs steadily get down to a comfy 15. it also doesn't stay at an even a/f at idle like i've seen on some youtube vids. it'll circle around 15 (14.7-15.3) fyi its an aem uego wb02.

the other more annoying symptoms are fully warm starts and warm idling. it won't like to idle on its own from a warm start and the engine misses when i add gas and then once i rev it up slightly (to 2k) it'll start to smooth out slowly till i feel its not too rough and it can hold its own idle. when it does, its a bit rough and the a/f guage doesn't register until i start driving with throttle more than 10%, then the a/fs get down to 16 and 15.
during idling at stop lights or drive-thrus... it can idle properly for about a good 30 secs, sometimes up to a minute if i'm lucky and then the a/fs start to go up as the idle drops about 50 rpm and a/f's are off the charts once it sets itself at that lower, rougher retarded idle.

i don't get knock at all (i run 94 octane for safety) and wide open throttle is still good, 13 a/f across the rev range going to 12.5 after 6500rpm. note: when i first did the swap it ran perfectly fine. i recently connected iacv (which does its job of bringing down the idle to like 700rpm) but i've had this issue before iacv connection.

i think i'ma relax with power mods lol and focus this summer on getting her all fixed up... need suspension and brakes too lol

pics : http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-thread-2.html pg 2 half way down.

cold start/idle/warm start vid http://s713.photobucket.com/albums/w...blemedited.mp4

Rene

 

btw please don't assume i know my **** even though i'm handy with a wrench and have good knowledge of engines i'm not a mechanic and i still consider myself a noob.

i just want to see if i/we can figure this problem out before i give up and send it to my mechanic

 

You have a vaccum leak for one.. you need to tighten the hoses to your EVAP gear on top of the manifold, make sure everything is plugged in.

 

Check all your vacuum lines

 

If you don't have emmissions I would delete the evap and all that extra stuff.

But I agree with everyone else sounds like you have a leak somewhere

 

+1 to deleting everything not needed. If you can get away with it. If not it's understandable but makes the swap a lot easier to manage. Hell I don't even have my 00VI yet and I don't have an EVAP or EGR system. I just wanted to throw this out there since I discovered mine was detached today, but is the vacuum line to the Fuel pressure regulator attached?

Maybe have a friend/mechanic go through and see if they can find anything that you may have forgotten to attach during install. Good luck!

 

did you save the gasket to the egr tube? a lot of people dont even realize theres one on there and it falls down and then they bolt the egr back up without the gasket, which could cause a vaccuum leak. or if one of the bolts isnt torqued enough

 

hmm, i'm not sure anymore lol... i do need the emissions, required to do emission test every 2 years. i know i can pass without egr (but i would like to keep it) but i don't think i'll pass without the others lol

the thing is it didnt' throw an egr code which makes me go WTF??!?! i remember i didn't use the second bottom bolt when installing it but wouldn't i get a code for leak in egr or too much flow in egr? those codes do exist

will take a look at the evap gear... i was under the assumption that vacuum leaks will cause a surging idle and/or a hesitation upon dabbing the throttle. maybe it does surge a bit but its faint... maybe a small vacuum leak?


i'll be visiting my mechanic in 2-3 weeks for suspension and i'll ask him to take a look at it. if i get time i'll buy a junkyard lim, lim/uim and egr gaskets and do it again before i see him. if i do it i'll write down every step i do and every hose i disconnect/reconnect and come back with my findings.


thanks for the input , i'll look into it.

 

You should pass a sniff test without EGR and EVAP. The problem is the CEL. If your state requires an OBDII test to check for CEL codes than you won't pass by deleting them. It varies from state to state.

 

maybe, but i know i had a vaccuum leak in my egr, because of the very same reason. i couldnt get one bolt torqued easily so i just left it semi tight. well it caused a vaccuum leak with no codes. fixed the bolt, fixed the leak.

 

i live in mississauga ontario and here its a sniffer curb idle test, 40km/h roll on dyno for 30 secs with sniffer. check engine light doesn't affect emissions at all, they just write about it in the comments section below the test results. I passed (almost with flying colours) on a bad, really rich tune with only the main catalytic in. now with the tune it'd pass no problem.

i'm thinking the same! i remember hooking up every hose but the small tiny hose (3-5mm) that plugs in to the intake/res box. i plugged it in when i put in my iacv, no diff. the only thing i remember not doing right is that egr bolt when i did the swap the very first time, that i know for sure... might have not even put on a gasket too does egr open at certain times or is it always open... maybe every time it opens for recirculation it gets my idle funky and a/f lean. could also be why i have a MAP code if the egr isn't sealed up.

i think i'll chance it for the threads in the LIM (the enlarged ones that accept the bolts that hold the UIM>LIM). i should've taken more care when tightening those bolts the first time... they go into soft aluminum, they're long and there's some play in the UIM for them so i might've tightened them on a slight angle 18 Nm right? lol

can i get away with using the UIM gasket a 3rd time or should i get a new one?

 

you need that bolt tight and you need the gasket.

 

lol deal. gonna open her up tonight or tomorrow morning, wish me luck!

i've ordered a new gasket at 2 nuts for the lower egr tube mounting studs for tomorrow and now i want to know what is the best way and/or tool to get at the lower egr, swiveling ratchet wrench? if yes what length?

 

I reused my gaskets for UIM just use a good amount of RTV and should be good to go.

 

the current gasket is a year old (from felpro) and this will be its 3rd seal, still got like 2-3mm of compressability. the first time i did it was with the gasket it came with which was nearly flush with UIM but still held...

http://www.largescalerc.com/images/p...il/px82180.JPG is this the same as rtv? i got a full tube of it, high temp good to 260*C.
did you use it on top of the gasket like just a bit smeared on with your finger for a good seal? might consider it.

so i called the dealer and ordered an egr gasket, took off 00vi tonight and egr. egr was pretty clean but cleaned it with carb cleaner anyways. so just waiting till tomorrow.

Before taking everything off i made sure to check the hoses for any nicks or anything unplugged... nothing. all the vacuum hoses are hooked up or plugged. I dont know where to check for evap stuff, i dont even think i have any of it lol.
all the vac lines i touched/inspected:
vacuum lines to fuel rail, 00vi vacuum switch, pcv, tb vacuum line connected (top), brake booster... these are all i had. unless i'm missing some??

When i got to the egr it seemed it was on there pretty good. both nuts where there. left one was almost tight and the right one was on the stud, just kinda there. it was just 'holding' the right side of egr... not loose and not tight.i guess its enough of a leak for a 500cc cylinder

this fix seems like it'd make sense, rough and lean idle every time the egr opens. hopefully tomorrow or wednesday i'll be done.

 

What would an oovi swap be without a CEL?

 

lol yep. they weren't cleared since i started the swap... i should probably clear them and see whats up after i put it back together again. maybe those codes are old news who knows i'll figure it out tomorrow

 

what i discovered was it was the angle i was comin at it that was wrong. all i used was a socket/and or ratcheting wrench, but it doesnt matter if its ratcheting. i basically brought the wrench all the way down below the engine(rather than coming at it from the top or from the side like the rest), and tightened it by feel. that gave me enough space to get it eventually done.

 

fixed... mostly lol egr is on tiiiight with new gasket, took me forever. warm idle is a lot smoother but it still dips a bit when warm while idling for more than a minute to unreadable afr's but it catches itself back 15 afr and then cycles again. it doesn't shudder nearly as much as before during that time either so egr was def an issue. i also don't have to baby it for cold starts and warm starts are 10x better!

this also eliminated most of my backfire i'd get at around 1500 rpm while decelerating. i think one (or more) of my coils is on its way out cause now it sometimes backfires and sometimes doesn't. also when it idles smoothly sometimes there's a short little jitter (not the dipping idle problem describbed in the above paragraph). the rear coils were from a vq30dek with like 200k km on them and the guy who sold me the kit probably put on another 30-50k so it might be time to replace them.'

situation is much improved but still not perfect and thanks for all the help till now ... so coils next? any other thoughts?

 

just swapped out the ebay for the oem maf... problem solved!i was doubting myself so much, I KNEW i wasn't making mistakes when putting it back on! wow i feel like i could do another swap right now... who's down for more top end power? hahaha


LESSON LEARNED: DONT BUY EBAY MAF!!!