99 Transmission Problems
99 Transmission Problems
just put another tranny in my 99 after 230k miles, this one had 120k miles and has been a beautiful tranny for me past 15k miles. well starting two days ago when tranny is cold i start car let it warm up 45 seconds and when i threw it into Reverse it made the motor idle down to like 250RPMS almost stumbling and shaking let off brake it hauled *** in reverse,put in N ran fine in drive same thing. took off felt like i was taking off from 4th gear and after i got goin bout 20mph it JUMPED into like last gear and stumbled again at very low rpms in its last gear.
did this 3 times...my Fluid is BRIGHT RED very clean still but was like half a quart over filled i drained some checked wire harness gonna see if it solved anything by morning...if not what does it sound like guys?
Once i drive about 2 or 3 complete stops and drive to 35mph it fixes itself and will run fine rest of the day.
did this 3 times...my Fluid is BRIGHT RED very clean still but was like half a quart over filled i drained some checked wire harness gonna see if it solved anything by morning...if not what does it sound like guys?
Once i drive about 2 or 3 complete stops and drive to 35mph it fixes itself and will run fine rest of the day.
No Codes,Beside Swirl Control Valve code and the fluid is now a little lower then it should be but better then bein over filled..seemed to do better but still acts up..drove fine when i took off the slamed into last gear at 25MPH....and still sometimes shutters when put in R or D when cold and takes off really really slow.
sounds to me like you have a sticking torque converter clutch. if it dies when you put it in gear that would be your problem. you may need a tc if you have no trans related codes.
sorry but the trans has to come back out
its the original tc correct?
spill and fill the trans just for the hell of it (unless, im pretty sure it is, your fluid is new)
top off the fluid though
sorry but the trans has to come back out
its the original tc correct?spill and fill the trans just for the hell of it (unless, im pretty sure it is, your fluid is new)
top off the fluid though
If it sounds like that i wouldn't mind throwing a brand new TC in and Changing Solynoids out....question is anyone have a write up on the solynoids? ill get some from junkyard or maybe the new updated ones???
the trans has to come out for the tc sooo.... if you replace both do the solenoids when you have the trans out it will be so much easier
Really I think the TC is good. After reading Symptoms of bad Shift Solynids im sure thats my issue...that would be GREAT if u could walk me through it i plan on doing it tommorow. Question is is it pretty much striaght foward or is it a job that requires lots of patience and adjustments? or simply unbolt remove and install new?
Really I think the TC is good. After reading Symptoms of bad Shift Solynids im sure thats my issue...that would be GREAT if u could walk me through it i plan on doing it tommorow. Question is is it pretty much striaght foward or is it a job that requires lots of patience and adjustments? or simply unbolt remove and install new?
If it is the solenoids, would you only replace them or also do a Master rebuild kit?
Good luck!
Regards//KP
I will drill down on that Haynes manual! Not to take focus from your situation but that manual will hopefully help me decide if it's my tranny or Torque Converter.
maxed_out_99 has helped others with the solenoid replacement I see! Very Cool!
Good luck and don't drink too much of that red fluid! LOL
Really I think the TC is good. After reading Symptoms of bad Shift Solynids im sure thats my issue...that would be GREAT if u could walk me through it i plan on doing it tommorow. Question is is it pretty much striaght foward or is it a job that requires lots of patience and adjustments? or simply unbolt remove and install new?
i stole this link from a thread dbear started so.. uh... thanks Dbear

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB98-049d.pdf page 6 shows the bolt locations
this is all from memory so please bear with me if some minor things are incorrect
what you will need::
a ratchet
a 10mm socket
a 19mm socket
brake clean
vasoline
-raise and support the max.
-unplug the allweather pack connector from under the hood (this is located above the starter and has 6 wires)
-trace the wires to the trans case and remove the metal clip and push the junction connector in the trans
-place the trans in neutral (this is key for easy R&R) and chock the wheels or set the parking brake
-drain the transmission ( 1 19 mm plug near the rear of the pan)
-remove all 16 bolts for the pan (a trick i have discovered is to leave 2 bolt near the front of the vehicle only loose not removed so you dont take a trans fluid shower)
-remove the 13 valvebody to case bolts
-remove the valvebody, solenoids, wires, and allweather connector from the case (a spring will fall out this is normal do not loose its location)
-clean the ever living crap out of everything with brake klean (solenoids, valvebody, connector, mounting points, everything)
-remove the solenoids from the side of the valvebody they will be held in with 10mm bolts
-remove the line pressure solenoid 1 10mm bolt
-clean the locations with brake klean
INSTALL
-lube the o-rings with vasoline or trans fluid and install
-place vasoline on the valve body and replace the spring that fell the vasoline should hold it in place
::IMPORTANT::
-line up the manual shaft with the pin inside the case if this is not done your shifter in the car will do nothing
-feed the connector and wires though the case
-replace the pin you removed
-connect the all weather connector
-replace the 13 valvebody to case bolts and torque to 93 inch pounds
-replace the trans pan drain plug
-replace the trans pan ( the bolts strip easily use caution. if it does not thread in with you fingers wiggle it until it does)
-torque all the bolts to 60 inch pounds
-fill the trans with 5 quarts of nissan matic-D
- lower the max
-fire that b*tch up!
-i immediately check the fluid level
-warm the trans to operating temp and check again add as needed
-blast that hot rod around the block (make sure you manually shift though all the gears)
-check the fluid level and condition again if its at the appropriate level park the beast and hang up you keys
::VERY IMPORTANT::
crack open a cold one and relax
i should probable make a write up huh?
that took longer to type than the actual job
i hope this helps
Last edited by maxed_out_99; May 31, 2012 at 10:58 PM.
ok so the valve body removal is simple. the only thing i would need to show you is the bolt locations for the valvebody to case bolts their is like 28 bolts in the valvebody and only 13 remove it from the case now for the write up ill see if i can locate a diagram and post it
i stole this link from a thread dbear started so.. uh... thanks Dbear
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB98-049d.pdf page 6 shows the bolt locations
this is all from memory so please bear with me if some minor things are incorrect
what you will need::
a ratchet
a 10mm socket
a 19mm socket
brake clean
vasoline
-raise and support the max.
-unplug the allweather pack connector from under the hood (this is located above the starter and has 6 wires)
-trace the wires to the trans case and remove the metal clip and push it in the trans
-place the trans in neutral and chock the wheels or set the parking brake (this is key for easy R&R)
-drain the transmission ( 1 19 mm plug near the rear of the pan)
-remove all 16 bolts for the pan (a trick i have discovered is to leave 2 bolt near the front of the vehicle only loose not removed so you dont take a trans fluid shower)
-remove the 13 valvebody to case bolts
-remove the valvebody, solenoids, wires, and allweather connector from the case (a spring will fall out this is normal do not loose its location)
-clean the ever living crap out of everything with brake klean (solenoids, valvebody, connector, mounting points, everything)
-remove the solenoids from the side of the valvebody they will be held in with 10mm bolts
-remove the line pressure solenoid 1 10mm bolt
-clean the locations with brake klean
INSTALL
-lube the o-rings with vasoline or trans fluid and install
-place vasoline on the valve body and replace the spring that fell the vasoline should hold it in place
::IMPORTANT::
-line up the manual shaft with the pin inside the case if this is not done your shifter in the car will do nothing
-feed the connector and wires though the case
-replace the pin you removed
-connect the all weather connector
-replace the 13 valvebody to case bolts and torque to 93 inch pounds
-replace the trans pan drain plug
-replace the trans pan ( the bolts strip easily use caution. if it does not thread in with you fingers wiggle it until it does)
-torque all the bolts to 60 inch pounds
-fill the trans with 5 quarts of nissan matic-D
- lower the max
-fire that b*tch up!
-i immediately check the fluid level
-warm the trans to operating temp and check again add as needed
-blast that hot rod around the block (make sure you manually shift though all the gears)
-check the fluid level and condition again if its at the appropriate level park the beast and hang up you keys
::VERY IMPORTANT::
crack open a cold one and relax
i should probable make a write up huh?
that took longer to type than the actual job
i hope this helps
i stole this link from a thread dbear started so.. uh... thanks Dbear

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB98-049d.pdf page 6 shows the bolt locations
this is all from memory so please bear with me if some minor things are incorrect
what you will need::
a ratchet
a 10mm socket
a 19mm socket
brake clean
vasoline
-raise and support the max.
-unplug the allweather pack connector from under the hood (this is located above the starter and has 6 wires)
-trace the wires to the trans case and remove the metal clip and push it in the trans
-place the trans in neutral and chock the wheels or set the parking brake (this is key for easy R&R)
-drain the transmission ( 1 19 mm plug near the rear of the pan)
-remove all 16 bolts for the pan (a trick i have discovered is to leave 2 bolt near the front of the vehicle only loose not removed so you dont take a trans fluid shower)
-remove the 13 valvebody to case bolts
-remove the valvebody, solenoids, wires, and allweather connector from the case (a spring will fall out this is normal do not loose its location)
-clean the ever living crap out of everything with brake klean (solenoids, valvebody, connector, mounting points, everything)
-remove the solenoids from the side of the valvebody they will be held in with 10mm bolts
-remove the line pressure solenoid 1 10mm bolt
-clean the locations with brake klean
INSTALL
-lube the o-rings with vasoline or trans fluid and install
-place vasoline on the valve body and replace the spring that fell the vasoline should hold it in place
::IMPORTANT::
-line up the manual shaft with the pin inside the case if this is not done your shifter in the car will do nothing
-feed the connector and wires though the case
-replace the pin you removed
-connect the all weather connector
-replace the 13 valvebody to case bolts and torque to 93 inch pounds
-replace the trans pan drain plug
-replace the trans pan ( the bolts strip easily use caution. if it does not thread in with you fingers wiggle it until it does)
-torque all the bolts to 60 inch pounds
-fill the trans with 5 quarts of nissan matic-D
- lower the max
-fire that b*tch up!
-i immediately check the fluid level
-warm the trans to operating temp and check again add as needed
-blast that hot rod around the block (make sure you manually shift though all the gears)
-check the fluid level and condition again if its at the appropriate level park the beast and hang up you keys
::VERY IMPORTANT::
crack open a cold one and relax
i should probable make a write up huh?
that took longer to type than the actual job
i hope this helps
Thanks Bro!
From the other thread:
Google search on part number: http://www.google.com/#hl=en&gs_nf=1...w=1344&bih=665
I hope this helps! Good luck!
I know its not a huge price difference but for those who want to save as much as possible and get these solenoids... they can be purchased from TRI Cities Nissan in Tennessee for 77+shipping. Only thing is you have to call because the part# will not come up on their site. hope this helps
I hope this helps! Good luck!
Well Never Got To Put New Solynoids in But Today The Tranny Broke..Top by the Differencial a 2 inch piece of aluminum broke and was dropping ATF Everywhere.. It Still Drives But Leaks My Dad Said he can Weld the Aluminum bacc n place and we can change Solynoids out to avoid slaming gears or should i go get a junk yard one? 3rd one lol.
Well Never Got To Put New Solynoids in But Today The Tranny Broke..Top by the Differencial a 2 inch piece of aluminum broke and was dropping ATF Everywhere.. It Still Drives But Leaks My Dad Said he can Weld the Aluminum bacc n place and we can change Solynoids out to avoid slaming gears or should i go get a junk yard one? 3rd one lol.
Junkyard...car-part.com
When you get it, drop all the fluid and replace it with the right stuff...Dexron III or better or Nissan d-matic.
I get the feeling that your last one died because someone put the wrong type fluid in there.
Also, don't bother with synthetic tranny fluid.. Just get regular Dexron III or better.
DW
Junkyard...car-part.com
When you get it, drop all the fluid and replace it with the right stuff...Dexron III or better or Nissan d-matic.
I get the feeling that your last one died because someone put the wrong type fluid in there.
Also, don't bother with synthetic tranny fluid.. Just get regular Dexron III or better.
DW
When you get it, drop all the fluid and replace it with the right stuff...Dexron III or better or Nissan d-matic.
I get the feeling that your last one died because someone put the wrong type fluid in there.
Also, don't bother with synthetic tranny fluid.. Just get regular Dexron III or better.
DW
i put the tranny in.
For example, the manual tranny 4th gen maxima specifys GL-4 fluid. There are fluids out there that are GL5 GL4 and GL3 compatible. All in one fluid. No-no. GL4 only fluid is best.
DW
Last edited by dwapenyi; Jun 23, 2012 at 01:43 AM.
I've got trans issues on my 98 Maxima. Shifting issues. Car shifts into reverse, drive, neutral whatever, so that isnt the main concern. What does concern me is that my automatic trans hits overdrive at like 35 mph when driving in the city, and on your average farm roads, it hits overdrive at around 42 mph. When I climb hills, it downshifts to climb the hill, but once it goes back into overdrive, it feels like the trans is either jerking around, or stuttering. It's really pronounced, too.
Now I've heard these auto transmissions referred to as "autotragics" due to the constant problems they apparently have. Would it be a solenoid issue, controller issue, or something around the likes, or should I just get a new trans. The car has 170k on it, trans has tiny TINY leak, and fluid is red.
Any advice?
Now I've heard these auto transmissions referred to as "autotragics" due to the constant problems they apparently have. Would it be a solenoid issue, controller issue, or something around the likes, or should I just get a new trans. The car has 170k on it, trans has tiny TINY leak, and fluid is red.
Any advice?
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,024
it feels like the trans is either jerking around, or stuttering. It's really pronounced, too.
Any advice?
Any advice?
Dump some old tranny fluid out, measure just how much came out, then replace it with same amount of fresh tranny fluid. Nissan DMatic or Dexron III. I've done this on several older cars I've owned and each time, shifting became more lively.
DW




