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99 Transmission Problems

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Old May 16, 2012 | 12:10 AM
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99 Transmission Problems

just put another tranny in my 99 after 230k miles, this one had 120k miles and has been a beautiful tranny for me past 15k miles. well starting two days ago when tranny is cold i start car let it warm up 45 seconds and when i threw it into Reverse it made the motor idle down to like 250RPMS almost stumbling and shaking let off brake it hauled *** in reverse,put in N ran fine in drive same thing. took off felt like i was taking off from 4th gear and after i got goin bout 20mph it JUMPED into like last gear and stumbled again at very low rpms in its last gear.

did this 3 times...my Fluid is BRIGHT RED very clean still but was like half a quart over filled i drained some checked wire harness gonna see if it solved anything by morning...if not what does it sound like guys?


Once i drive about 2 or 3 complete stops and drive to 35mph it fixes itself and will run fine rest of the day.
Old May 16, 2012 | 12:57 AM
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TPS sensor?
Old May 16, 2012 | 05:59 AM
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sounds like shift solenoids or if u lucky drop resistor.

U can check TPS and the TCM for any codes.
Old May 16, 2012 | 10:14 AM
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yea may be the TPS goin out i thought about that one...ill pull codes n see what i find.
Old May 18, 2012 | 09:34 AM
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No Codes,Beside Swirl Control Valve code and the fluid is now a little lower then it should be but better then bein over filled..seemed to do better but still acts up..drove fine when i took off the slamed into last gear at 25MPH....and still sometimes shutters when put in R or D when cold and takes off really really slow.
Old May 20, 2012 | 01:35 AM
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Now if its COLD i put it in reverse and engine just dies Reverse or drive it goes THUD and dies have to do it few times to get it to drive. once warm all is good. Anyone?
Old May 21, 2012 | 12:42 PM
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anybody??????????????????????
Old May 22, 2012 | 12:45 PM
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noone knows.............
Old May 22, 2012 | 02:20 PM
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Could be your driving
Old May 24, 2012 | 01:26 PM
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Probably lol....
Old May 27, 2012 | 10:03 PM
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Why would it go from 1st gear and slam into 4th gear when cold? and cruising on highway 60mph it shifts from 4th gear to overdrive back and fourth for long time!
Old May 28, 2012 | 01:04 AM
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sounds to me like you have a sticking torque converter clutch. if it dies when you put it in gear that would be your problem. you may need a tc if you have no trans related codes.
sorry but the trans has to come back out its the original tc correct?

spill and fill the trans just for the hell of it (unless, im pretty sure it is, your fluid is new)

top off the fluid though
Old May 30, 2012 | 11:19 AM
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Well...The OVERDRIVE Light blinks when its actin up....maybe torque converter?
Old May 30, 2012 | 11:22 AM
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and when cold, it goes from first gear and slams into last gear at 20mph i floor it and it just barely moves never down shifts...seems like a sensor problem huh? fluid is bright red clean!
Old May 30, 2012 | 11:33 AM
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You got 99 problems? I hope your.......Oh wait

DW
Old May 30, 2012 | 04:04 PM
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What?
Old May 30, 2012 | 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by TravisCadello
and when cold, it goes from first gear and slams into last gear at 20mph i floor it and it just barely moves never down shifts...seems like a sensor problem huh? fluid is bright red clean!
it definitely sounds like a tcc problem its either a solenoid or your tc
Old May 31, 2012 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by maxed_out_99
it definitely sounds like a tcc problem its either a solenoid or your tc
If it sounds like that i wouldn't mind throwing a brand new TC in and Changing Solynoids out....question is anyone have a write up on the solynoids? ill get some from junkyard or maybe the new updated ones???
Old May 31, 2012 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by TravisCadello
If it sounds like that i wouldn't mind throwing a brand new TC in and Changing Solynoids out....question is anyone have a write up on the solynoids? ill get some from junkyard or maybe the new updated ones???
i havent found a write up but i can walk you through it.

the trans has to come out for the tc sooo.... if you replace both do the solenoids when you have the trans out it will be so much easier
Old May 31, 2012 | 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by maxed_out_99
i havent found a write up but i can walk you through it.

the trans has to come out for the tc sooo.... if you replace both do the solenoids when you have the trans out it will be so much easier
Really I think the TC is good. After reading Symptoms of bad Shift Solynids im sure thats my issue...that would be GREAT if u could walk me through it i plan on doing it tommorow. Question is is it pretty much striaght foward or is it a job that requires lots of patience and adjustments? or simply unbolt remove and install new?
Old May 31, 2012 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by TravisCadello
Really I think the TC is good. After reading Symptoms of bad Shift Solynids im sure thats my issue...that would be GREAT if u could walk me through it i plan on doing it tommorow. Question is is it pretty much striaght foward or is it a job that requires lots of patience and adjustments? or simply unbolt remove and install new?
Hi, I am interested also in your diagnosis and steps taken to remedy your tranny. The only noises were thud and no grinding or squealing? After a lot of searching, finding how to diagnose these transmissions isn't easy to find.

If it is the solenoids, would you only replace them or also do a Master rebuild kit?

Good luck!

Regards//KP
Old May 31, 2012 | 09:17 PM
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From what i read ^^^^^ u can just replace them...read the Haynes repair manual has lot info in it and ways to diagnose it.
Old May 31, 2012 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by TravisCadello
From what i read ^^^^^ u can just replace them...read the Haynes repair manual has lot info in it and ways to diagnose it.
Yes, Thank you! I was just reading other threads about the solenoids and the TransGo shift kit.

I will drill down on that Haynes manual! Not to take focus from your situation but that manual will hopefully help me decide if it's my tranny or Torque Converter.

maxed_out_99 has helped others with the solenoid replacement I see! Very Cool!

Good luck and don't drink too much of that red fluid! LOL
Old May 31, 2012 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by TravisCadello
Really I think the TC is good. After reading Symptoms of bad Shift Solynids im sure thats my issue...that would be GREAT if u could walk me through it i plan on doing it tommorow. Question is is it pretty much striaght foward or is it a job that requires lots of patience and adjustments? or simply unbolt remove and install new?
ok so the valve body removal is simple. the only thing i would need to show you is the bolt locations for the valvebody to case bolts their is like 28 bolts in the valvebody and only 13 remove it from the case now for the write up ill see if i can locate a diagram and post it
i stole this link from a thread dbear started so.. uh... thanks Dbear
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB98-049d.pdf page 6 shows the bolt locations
this is all from memory so please bear with me if some minor things are incorrect

what you will need::
a ratchet
a 10mm socket
a 19mm socket
brake clean
vasoline

-raise and support the max.

-unplug the allweather pack connector from under the hood (this is located above the starter and has 6 wires)

-trace the wires to the trans case and remove the metal clip and push the junction connector in the trans

-place the trans in neutral (this is key for easy R&R) and chock the wheels or set the parking brake

-drain the transmission ( 1 19 mm plug near the rear of the pan)

-remove all 16 bolts for the pan (a trick i have discovered is to leave 2 bolt near the front of the vehicle only loose not removed so you dont take a trans fluid shower)

-remove the 13 valvebody to case bolts

-remove the valvebody, solenoids, wires, and allweather connector from the case (a spring will fall out this is normal do not loose its location)

-clean the ever living crap out of everything with brake klean (solenoids, valvebody, connector, mounting points, everything)

-remove the solenoids from the side of the valvebody they will be held in with 10mm bolts

-remove the line pressure solenoid 1 10mm bolt

-clean the locations with brake klean

INSTALL

-lube the o-rings with vasoline or trans fluid and install

-place vasoline on the valve body and replace the spring that fell the vasoline should hold it in place

::IMPORTANT::
-line up the manual shaft with the pin inside the case if this is not done your shifter in the car will do nothing

-feed the connector and wires though the case

-replace the pin you removed

-connect the all weather connector

-replace the 13 valvebody to case bolts and torque to 93 inch pounds

-replace the trans pan drain plug

-replace the trans pan ( the bolts strip easily use caution. if it does not thread in with you fingers wiggle it until it does)

-torque all the bolts to 60 inch pounds

-fill the trans with 5 quarts of nissan matic-D

- lower the max

-fire that b*tch up!

-i immediately check the fluid level

-warm the trans to operating temp and check again add as needed

-blast that hot rod around the block (make sure you manually shift though all the gears)

-check the fluid level and condition again if its at the appropriate level park the beast and hang up you keys
::VERY IMPORTANT::
crack open a cold one and relax




i should probable make a write up huh?
that took longer to type than the actual job

i hope this helps

Last edited by maxed_out_99; May 31, 2012 at 10:58 PM.
Old May 31, 2012 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by maxed_out_99
ok so the valve body removal is simple. the only thing i would need to show you is the bolt locations for the valvebody to case bolts their is like 28 bolts in the valvebody and only 13 remove it from the case now for the write up ill see if i can locate a diagram and post it
i stole this link from a thread dbear started so.. uh... thanks Dbear
http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB98-049d.pdf page 6 shows the bolt locations
this is all from memory so please bear with me if some minor things are incorrect

what you will need::
a ratchet
a 10mm socket
a 19mm socket
brake clean
vasoline

-raise and support the max.

-unplug the allweather pack connector from under the hood (this is located above the starter and has 6 wires)

-trace the wires to the trans case and remove the metal clip and push it in the trans

-place the trans in neutral and chock the wheels or set the parking brake (this is key for easy R&R)

-drain the transmission ( 1 19 mm plug near the rear of the pan)

-remove all 16 bolts for the pan (a trick i have discovered is to leave 2 bolt near the front of the vehicle only loose not removed so you dont take a trans fluid shower)

-remove the 13 valvebody to case bolts

-remove the valvebody, solenoids, wires, and allweather connector from the case (a spring will fall out this is normal do not loose its location)

-clean the ever living crap out of everything with brake klean (solenoids, valvebody, connector, mounting points, everything)

-remove the solenoids from the side of the valvebody they will be held in with 10mm bolts

-remove the line pressure solenoid 1 10mm bolt

-clean the locations with brake klean

INSTALL

-lube the o-rings with vasoline or trans fluid and install

-place vasoline on the valve body and replace the spring that fell the vasoline should hold it in place

::IMPORTANT::
-line up the manual shaft with the pin inside the case if this is not done your shifter in the car will do nothing

-feed the connector and wires though the case

-replace the pin you removed

-connect the all weather connector

-replace the 13 valvebody to case bolts and torque to 93 inch pounds

-replace the trans pan drain plug

-replace the trans pan ( the bolts strip easily use caution. if it does not thread in with you fingers wiggle it until it does)

-torque all the bolts to 60 inch pounds

-fill the trans with 5 quarts of nissan matic-D

- lower the max

-fire that b*tch up!

-i immediately check the fluid level

-warm the trans to operating temp and check again add as needed

-blast that hot rod around the block (make sure you manually shift though all the gears)

-check the fluid level and condition again if its at the appropriate level park the beast and hang up you keys
::VERY IMPORTANT::
crack open a cold one and relax




i should probable make a write up huh?
that took longer to type than the actual job

i hope this helps


Thanks Bro!
Old May 31, 2012 | 11:00 PM
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ok...is it ok to get new solynoids from junkyard tranny with low miles? just clean hell out it?
Old Jun 1, 2012 | 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by TravisCadello
ok...is it ok to get new solynoids from junkyard tranny with low miles? just clean hell out it?
I read on one thread here that they are available as a kit for around $70 to $80.
Old Jun 1, 2012 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by KP11520
I read on one thread here that they are available as a kit for around $70 to $80.
can someone please link me to it? id much rather put new ones
Old Jun 1, 2012 | 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by TravisCadello
can someone please link me to it? id much rather put new ones
From the other thread:

Originally Posted by BigLou55
I know its not a huge price difference but for those who want to save as much as possible and get these solenoids... they can be purchased from TRI Cities Nissan in Tennessee for 77+shipping. Only thing is you have to call because the part# will not come up on their site. hope this helps
Originally Posted by jholley
Installing the transgo shift kit is what improved the shifting. I only replaced the shift solenoids because I currently had the VB disassembled and they only cost $80 in the 31940-80X25 repair kit.
Google search on part number: http://www.google.com/#hl=en&gs_nf=1...w=1344&bih=665

I hope this helps! Good luck!
Old Jun 1, 2012 | 11:40 AM
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Thanks Buddd^^^^^^^^^^^^
Old Jun 21, 2012 | 11:18 PM
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Well Never Got To Put New Solynoids in But Today The Tranny Broke..Top by the Differencial a 2 inch piece of aluminum broke and was dropping ATF Everywhere.. It Still Drives But Leaks My Dad Said he can Weld the Aluminum bacc n place and we can change Solynoids out to avoid slaming gears or should i go get a junk yard one? 3rd one lol.
Old Jun 22, 2012 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by TravisCadello
Well Never Got To Put New Solynoids in But Today The Tranny Broke..Top by the Differencial a 2 inch piece of aluminum broke and was dropping ATF Everywhere.. It Still Drives But Leaks My Dad Said he can Weld the Aluminum bacc n place and we can change Solynoids out to avoid slaming gears or should i go get a junk yard one? 3rd one lol.

Junkyard...car-part.com

When you get it, drop all the fluid and replace it with the right stuff...Dexron III or better or Nissan d-matic.

I get the feeling that your last one died because someone put the wrong type fluid in there.
Also, don't bother with synthetic tranny fluid.. Just get regular Dexron III or better.

DW
Old Jun 22, 2012 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dwapenyi
Junkyard...car-part.com

When you get it, drop all the fluid and replace it with the right stuff...Dexron III or better or Nissan d-matic.

I get the feeling that your last one died because someone put the wrong type fluid in there.
Also, don't bother with synthetic tranny fluid.. Just get regular Dexron III or better.

DW
I Ran Castrol Multi Import ATF...It Was Nissan D-Matic Aproved.


i put the tranny in.
Old Jun 22, 2012 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TravisCadello
I Ran Castrol Multi Import ATF...It Was Nissan D-Matic Aproved.


i put the tranny in.
That Castrol Multi is a generic "catch-all" type fluid. I would suggest you stick with fluid that is strictly measured with specifications in a narrower range....Dexron III or Nissan D-matic, NON synthetic.

For example, the manual tranny 4th gen maxima specifys GL-4 fluid. There are fluids out there that are GL5 GL4 and GL3 compatible. All in one fluid. No-no. GL4 only fluid is best.

DW

Last edited by dwapenyi; Jun 23, 2012 at 01:43 AM.
Old Sep 16, 2012 | 09:15 AM
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I've got trans issues on my 98 Maxima. Shifting issues. Car shifts into reverse, drive, neutral whatever, so that isnt the main concern. What does concern me is that my automatic trans hits overdrive at like 35 mph when driving in the city, and on your average farm roads, it hits overdrive at around 42 mph. When I climb hills, it downshifts to climb the hill, but once it goes back into overdrive, it feels like the trans is either jerking around, or stuttering. It's really pronounced, too.

Now I've heard these auto transmissions referred to as "autotragics" due to the constant problems they apparently have. Would it be a solenoid issue, controller issue, or something around the likes, or should I just get a new trans. The car has 170k on it, trans has tiny TINY leak, and fluid is red.

Any advice?
Old Sep 16, 2012 | 11:10 AM
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Check your trans mount
Old Sep 16, 2012 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by DFoot1986
. What does concern me is that my automatic trans hits overdrive at like 35 mph when driving in the city, and on your average farm roads, it hits overdrive at around 42 mph. When I climb hills, it downshifts to climb the hill, but once it goes back into overdrive,
Normal behavior.

it feels like the trans is either jerking around, or stuttering. It's really pronounced, too.

Any advice?
Is it really the trans or do you have a misfire going on, pronounced more so when od is engaged?
Old Sep 16, 2012 | 07:10 PM
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yeah probably small miss fires. but thats perfectly normal for the maximas everyone i drove did same.
Old Sep 17, 2012 | 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by TravisCadello
yeah probably small miss fires. but thats perfectly normal for the maximas everyone i drove did same.
You've set the bar pretty low there. You shouldn't have any misfires from a modern ignition system. Have you tried refreshing your tranny fluid? I know its red and all, but it could be tried.

Dump some old tranny fluid out, measure just how much came out, then replace it with same amount of fresh tranny fluid. Nissan DMatic or Dexron III. I've done this on several older cars I've owned and each time, shifting became more lively.

DW
Old Sep 17, 2012 | 06:47 AM
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sounds to me like its time for a 5MT swap....autotragic ftl...



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