Hi Guys,

I finish install the Innovate AFR WideBand Controler, Fuel Pressure Gauge and the S-AFCII. On WOT what AFR I must try to stay to give me the maximum power on entire powerband.

I see that the car on WOT stays on 11.2 to 12.2 on the all rev range.

The fuel pressure on idle is 42 PSI and when I press the pedal to WOT it raises to 50 PSI and after some seconds it drops back to 42PSI.

Can someone give me a direction to follow or any tips?

Kindly Regards!

Rafael Valente

 

No One to share expertise with me?

Thanks!

 

well as you may already know 14.7:1 is stochiometry so anywhere close to that is best. but if you tune that number to wide open you will run lean at idle

just on a side note, in order to fully understand what you want to do we need to know what your mods are. and what your looking to do. if you just want to tune a stock setup its really kind of pointless. thats what the engineers programmed the ecu for so... with stock injectors, timing, and intake setup you wont see any drastic improvement in performance

if your fuel pressure is dropping to 42psi at wide open you may need to replace your regulator or pump

how many miles and what are your mods

 

Ok, let`s go...

1999 Max
Stock air Box (ALL insulated with DEI Reflect-a-Gold )
Drop-in K&N Filter
6 New Denso Iridium Spark Plugs
Custom Made Exhaust Header Check -> ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UYLA-7cNZM ) + DEI Titatium Exhaust Wrap.
Custom B-Pipe ( removed the Stock reducing the size )
2.5 to 4 Inches Unrestricted Inox Muffler

I have an option to use also on the Stock air box the following :

AEM 6 Inches Air Filter
Vibrant Aluminum Bellmouth Velocity Stack 6 to 3 Inches
Injen MAF Adapter
Stock Ressonator box
3.12 inches to 2.75 Silicone ( Ressonator adaptor to stock TB )

When I used the second option I fell loss in the entire powerband ( with stock ECU , no mods with the SAFCII ) That`s why I got back to stock air box ( my dyno but gives me the impression that it can do better LowEnd torque than the AEM air filter. )

So, let me know your concern please.

Regards!

Rafael

 

I think you have some other problem that tuning may make better but it won't make it go away your car is pretty stock and not really needing a tune. You don't have any tune able mods.

I think you should clean your maf and check you knock sensor first

 

he's got y pipe back and a mevi, not so stock lol why should he check the knock sensor and maf??

ya i'd stay away from short rams for an auto, you will lose low end and the auto needs it. if you want an air filter mod i'd go cold air like injen style or place racing style (into fender).

for tuning i can't say much about the fuel pressure but your target afr across the rev range should be 13 WOT and maybe 12.5 heading into the 6-6.5k rpm range for safety and a bit of extra cooling. Then use the narrow throttle setting on the piggy back tuner to set good transition afr's... this is when you're cruising and then step on the gas a bit more to get more power. that transition moment is when afr's should read 11 or 12.

example: your cruising (~14.7 afr), step on gas a bit (afr's dip to 11 or 12 for a second to compensate for your sudden throttle opening) to accelerate (afr's correct to ~14.7). if your transition ratios are higher that 13 you might experience a lean 'stumble' (afrs reading 14/15/16 in transition to ~14.7) before the ecu figures out 'o yeah you stepped on the gas'

 

Sorry, but, what you said is totally nonsense... btw, my MAF is clean and the KS is brand new and it`s resistance is 500 Ohms as the FSM says that is good...

 

Thanks for your share... I was trying exactly to AIM of 13 AFR for WOT, but, as you said, on the Low settings of the SAFCII I can change, but, the ECU on that settings in running in closed loop mode, so, Even when I try to change that I`m unable to see any kind of difference on the AFR Gauge. I am missing something?

Please let me know.

I shall be going into Dyno to try to adjust better, I didn`t feel the can so much better after the 13 AFR... btw, I`m running using a 95 Octanes Gasoline ( with 20% Ethanol ) that`s is a Brazilian Regulation, no pure gasolina is allowed down here.

Best regards!

 

what do you mean by "i didn't feel the can so much better after the 13 afr" ? did you mean you felt a difference or hardly any?

i would go to a dyno too if you're auto, you need some 3rd gear pulls. hard to do that if you're an auto on the street, it just kicks down a gear lol.

ya the o2 will make it go to ~14.7 anyways so the narrow settings are sorta useless. i use the narrow setting to for the transitions. say you're at 15% throttle, suddenly you need to pass someone and increase throttle to 35% (still in the same gear). at both of these throttle openings the o2 will make it go to ~14.7 afr but its that tiny moment between the two points where afrs should dip to 11 or 12. if it reads more than that then add more fuel for that rpm point in the narrow setting.

as for your air filter, you need to have an enclosed one. open pod filters are great for high rpm flow but take away the low end torque which is much needed on an auto. check out K&N apollo intake, they're kinda cool, i'm looking into it myself. its an enclosed cone filter but with a ram air attachment. http://www.knfilters.com/universal/apollo.htm

 

you`re right about the Auto Gearbox, It`s sucks alot, I wish to know also if there`s any kind of trick that I can stuck the gear in 2nd for just try to tune it from 1500 till 6500, I tryed alot, but if the 2nd isn`t high over 2700 rpm the AutoGearbox kickdown to 1st at 4000 and goes till 6000 and then pass back to the 2nd, this way is impossible to tune the automatic. Any opinion on this way will be great !!!

I shall check that Apollo link from K&N.

Btw, what on the LO / HI I need to stay? I placed the LO as 20% and HI as 60% ( so, in the middle as I understand correctly the user manual it will "interpolate" ) Am I right?

Best regards!

Rafael Valente

 

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...utomatics.html

 

YES! it does interpolate between both settings to get you a decent setting between those 2 points. i'd go to the dyno,... or get the suprastick.

yes, this. never had experience with it and never seen or read about it but all the fast dudes with auto's (i think including Jime's 10.85 sec 1/4 mile maxima is using this) have it. can't go wrong.

 

haha the link is to a thread made by jime... good stuff!

 

An exhaust is not a tunable mod.
Where the hell did he say he had a MEVI?

You mean to tell me a dirty mat or faulty knock sensor won't cause drivability issues?

 

sure it is, even a completely stock maxima is tunable! stock afrs are in the 10's and 11's but you'll only yield like 5 hp lol

ya he didn't mention that part about the mevi, kinda important lol but i've seen his vids on youtube.

Where does he say he's got driveability issues? lol

 

ok guys... let`s not fight...

What I have :

1 - I did not say that I have a MEVI or 00vi installed, it`s a VQ30DE, no VQ30DE-K or VQ30DE with MEVE / 00vi added later.

2 - I do not have any problems with my MAF ( already measure it ) and of course, it`s kinda clean ( I did by myself when I bought the car ).

3 - KS is OK, replaced with a new one and it`s working good.

4 - Y-Pipe, Test Pipe ( no cat ) ,1 Silencer , B-Pipe and Inox Muffler 4 inches out ( stock size yet, 2 inches ).

Any doubt, please let me know.

Thanks!

 

Sorry about that, Later , after I put the video on the air I realize that my car does not came equipped with the MEVI / 00VI... I readed that all Maximas from 99 was with MEVI, but, after I study alot of pictures, my Intake is not made of plastic, it`s entire aluminum and there`s no Valve to change any air path into the intake... =(

I wish to upgrade this car with all mods from 190 to 210 at least HP..

Best Regards!

Rafael

 

If you want to get into tuning then you will need to add some form of aftermarket equipment. An exhaust on this car stock does essentially nothing but add sound. The Y pipe is the only power adder that you have. If you want to start tuning you will need to get yourself a Z32 MAF and some bigger injectors. With the stock MAF and stock injectors you are limited. Although you don't want to listen to maxed out he is correct. You have nothing to tune and tuning your current set-up will just be a waste of money and yield little to no gains

 

Shock... Thanks for your reply mate, the car is not so stock as you can see on the video, maybe you didn`t see it did you? It`s a custom made Y-Pipe, tje exhaust is not open to 2.25 or 2.5 inches because I will lose the low end torque without some back-pressure.

Feel free to comment what you see on the video please, I`m here just to listen to good ideas.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7UYLA-7cNZM

Regards!

 

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/CIMG1418.jpg if this is how your intake manifold looks like then you got USIM

tuning on y pipe back will only yield like 5hp at the most, you won't even feel it on the butt dyno.

 

I did watch it. It was a crush bent y pipe? Mandrel bends are best for exhaust as its best for smooth airflow. 3" exhaust piping was actually proven to give gains if you can believe it. If you want to get the most out of tuning then you will have to get a different MAF and bigger injectors and possibly a different fuel rail as well as fuel pressure regulator. Im not making fun of your car saying it is stock. A Y pipe really helps this car for not a lot of money but the other exhaust mods you have without supporting mods to take advantage of greater exhaust efficiency really isn't adding power. If you want to get over the 200 mark then you will need more air and more fuel thus the suggestions I provided.

 

Great to know that... I just thanks for your help here...

Please, are you able to link me those itens I need from Amazon.com? I can buy there and send the itens to my Bro house on Maryland.

Thanks in advance for your patience,

Best Regards...

Rafael

 

mevi isn't plastic, its aluminum but it has a cover over it like this http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_...0041_large.jpg

00vi is plastic and looks like this http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...i-Sale-001.jpg

both are similar as they are variable intakes but they are also very different in how they look, what they're made of and how they activate the VIAS.

if you want some extra ponies out of that vq30de with bolt ons you could look in the classifieds... speedcrazie is selling a set of headers for $100. the shorty headers will give you another 5-10, i'd recommend heat wrapping them as they aren't made of cast iron like oem manifolds. you could also take a look at NWP spacers which would be very good for you since your all aluminum manifolds (especially the lower part) get pretty hot... http://www.nwpengineering.com/Phenol...rs.html#VQ30DE

 

The limit is at about 240-250fwhp on a Dynojet (stock MAF/Injectors/Fuel pump), so I think he's fine unless he's deciding to go FI.

 

Probably wont find them on Amazon. You will have to search. You can get both the Z32 MAF and Z32 injectors and it should take you up quite a bit in HP numbers. With bigger injectors than you need you can dial them back and adjust quite a bit. GL

 

Well with bigger injectors he can dial them back and adjust the pulse curve. The stock injectors are fine but with tuning it helps to have a bigger MAF especially.

 

The Z32TT MAF is bigger but also requires a re tune. He can make his own like a few others have and be fine that way.

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...?highlight=MAF


http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...&postcount=134
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?postid=4843826
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378103
http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...2&postcount=46

 

Guys, I think that NmexMAX just got the point. I do not want to Turbo/Supercharger my car... I`m just looking for only more 20 HP, nothing more, I`m happy with VQ power for sure if I got that numbers.

I was about to ask you guys about the Z32 MAF, what is the point for it and huge injectors for 20 HP? Does I REALLY need that???

BTW, my intake is NOT the MEVI and not the 00VI, it`s the regular one ( thanks for the pictures ).

Another thing I did was to Close the "stupid" EGR ( I removed the vacuum tube for it ) and felt no difference at all after that...

I can increase the Fuel Pressure by also removing the Vacuum tube on the Fuel Pressure Regulator, but doing that I got a fixed value of 51PSI full time, on Idle, Closed Loop or WOT...

Please let me know...

Thanks alot mates for your help, sorry for all posts here, here in Brazil the Maxima is not a regular car as in USA... there was only 50 units sold in Brazil and mine is the newer ( fewer miles, only 50k ), more than the half was totalled or out of service due to the lack of parts.

Regards!

 

I assumed he was getting into tuning and the 2 suggestions I laid out are a start. 370cc injectors are not that big but you can adjust them far greater and lets be honest, not many of the stock 16 yr old injectors are operating anywhere near the 280ccish stock limit. I suppose it would be overkill for him but it also leaves room to grow which I personally like to have

EDIT: Adding 20hp will not get you to your goal. The advertised 190hp for the 30 engine is exaggerated a little bit

 

So, we have a good start... can you link me the Injectors and the Seal rings ( amazon please or ebay.com ) that will fit my stock fuel Rail? Do I need to change the fuel pump? It`s brand new, changed 2 months ago for a similar with the same specs as the OEM one.

So, about the 190 declared, what can I really expect so? 170?

Thanks Shock!

 

Ebay is risky for MAF's as they can sell you something completely different and can be a real hassle. After 16 years yea I would say you could have around 170 but could be lower. Amazon and ebay will not have what you want. Gotta do the leg work yourself. If you just want a few extra hp then you could also get some NWP spacers(http://www.nwpengineering.com/Phenol...rs.html#VQ30DE) I will link you that lol

 

uuhhmmm... okay... so, when at WOT the AFR I could regulate to 13.0 from 2.5k to 6.5k on the entire band, does not mean the the injectors are running ok? And about before I start to tune the car the AFT was 11.2 to 12.2 ... If I got a stuck or a bad injector(s) I can`t get such numbers, am I right???

Thanks!!!

P.S. : I already saw that Spacers... it appears to be a PITA to swap to then... I saw on VQPower.com

 

Just slap on a 00vi and use the de-k injectors.........

 

I do not have those parts available in my country, and it`s very impossible someone import that to me, even paying good thru paypal. If someone knows who can send all those parts for a MEVI ou 00VI I can pay for it.

Thanks!

 

nah man, it should be really straight forward. all you do is remove upper and lower intake manifolds, put in the spacers in with some high temp gasket maker (black permatex/rtv) and put the manifolds back on... enjoy the extra 8hp.

try it...if you thought that was tough then i don't recommend doing a mevi or 00vi. check

keep checking the 4th gen classifieds. some of the complete sets go for $300 + shipping. keep in mind this isn't a direct bolt on, there's some modding req'd.

 

How does adding bigger injectors and a Z32 MAF bring up HP numbers?

 

z32 maf is bigger, flows more air. injectors to match. you'd need at least a piggy back to make the z32 maf work and then trim/add fuel as needed to get proper afr's and enjoy extra hp.

you don't necessarily need much bigger injectors but if you're going to do much more later you might as well go bigger. i think de-k injectors should suffice for complete bolt on stuff.

i'm building a 3" maf on wednesday. the whole intake will be 3" leading to a 4th gen 2.5" tb... going for a venturi effect

 

You read my mind. Bigger injectors and a Z32 MAF allow more power to be had with the right "power" mods, but they don't make power by themselves. They are more or less "supporting" mods.

 

Don't mean to burst your bubble but the Z32 MAF isn't any bigger...that's not why people upgrade to them.

 

OP, your HP goal is easily attainable with a MEVI, intake, ypipe (headers even better), 2.5" or 3" exhaust, and a good tune. Thats good for around 200 whp actually.