Does anyone have a bulletproof method to bleed 5 spd 98 cylinder/slave on clutch?

It was easier to replace the clutch. I still have a spongy pedal. Also I've used about yikes 1/2 a container of Brake Fluid.

 

You could try this Method:


I haven't tried it.. But I plan to when I finally get off my *** and install the SS clutch line I bought for the Z like 3 months ago lol

 

Get a hose that fits snug over the bleed nipple. stick the other end into a cup of brake fluid. Have someone push the clutch all the way to the floor and then loosen the bleed nipple. Air should come out of the hose and create bubbles in the cup. Do this 3-6 times depending on how much air is in the system. Top off the clutch fluid as needed. Don't let the level drop to low or you'll get more air through the line. After You've done it enough times to have no bubbles, Tighten the bleed nipple and then remove the hose. I've bled my slave this way for years and have never had an issue with air in the line.

 

If you bled it a ton of times you need to keep bleeding till you get your pedal back, I had to bleed my 4th gen for 45 minutes straight once just to get a stiff pedal back. Make sure you bleed from the clutch master and the slave. Your best bet is to spend the 30/40 bucks for the stainless braided line and that will help get rid of the hydrolic line maze that Nissan blessed us with.

 

Yes, a friend of mine had that style bleeder, it still took us around 45 minutes to get the air out because the pedal sunk all the way down after replacing the clutch. Once air is introduced it's hard to get out probably due to the maze of lines. But the way in the video is an excellent way regardless.

 

I'm doin this!

 

I just replaced the hydraulic maze with one of the stainless covered clutch lines that eliminates the rat's nest of OEM lines. Took me less than ten minutes to bleed the new line by myself with a small hand operated vacuum pump. Instead of "pushing" the new fluid thru the line with the master cylinder, you "pull" it with the vacuum pump on the bleed valve. The key thing is to make sure the fluid reservoir never gets below the low mark.

 

At work we have a BG brake flush machine, which basically pushes fluid through the line and refills automatically through a sealed cap on the master cylinder, I used it but just used the sucking hose on the machine and kept topping off the master as it went down, I bled all the fluid out, so now its all new and no air for sure, just easier :-)

 

http://aackshunsgarage.blogspot.com/...utch-line.html

 

Where do I buy this stainless line?

 

Replacing the goofball maze with a stainless line helps a LOT. But, even with that maze in place I found it extremely easy to bleed the clutch line when I got one of these:

http://goo.gl/Q3niVI

Also works great on brakes of course. Hoping it makes bleeding the clutch on my bimmer a snap as well.

 

I feel dumb. I have both types of MityVac brake bleeding tools. Well, one of them is the hand-operated vacuum/pressure pump. But the damn cup that came with it won't hold a vacuum, so it's not able to bleed brakes.


The second one I have is a dedicated brake bleeder, using an air compressor. I found out why I couldn't bleed my clutch, one of the hard lines have a hole in it due to a kink.


I ordered my replacement stainless line.