Why the untraceable unundesrtandable maze of hydraulic lines between clutch and master cylinder?

I was thinking of running a direct stainless steel /braided hose feed to the slave cylinder from the clutch master cylinder and plugging any holes in the master cylinder circuitry between with 10mm x1 pitch bolts.

I 've been using every bleed method possible and I still have a spongy clutch pedal. I haven't yet tried the one where you bench bleed the clutch cylinder in the car because I'm afarid of disconnecting the line and getting air into my Master Cylinder.

Could I do this or is the clutch/ master cylinder. hose/ fluid relationship important and irreplaceble.

 

Get this, install, and be done!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/95-01-Nissan...5dad9d&vxp=mtr
It is well worth it....

 

The purpose of the design is to act like a coil to radiate heat from the line to keep the brake fluid cool in the lines. At least that is what it's supposed to do, anyways...

 

Sheesh I have no idea but I know if you have to change the master or the slave bleeding that system is a headache. So I would just run the SS line from the master to the slave if you have to change any of that stuff and get rid of the coil system. looks a lot cleaner under the hood if you do

 

Just replaced that maze with one of the SS lines from master to slave last weekend. Took about 4 hours because of access issues and 95 degree temps - here are a couple of things to help.
- Remove all the plastic intake tubing to gain access.
- On master end, you will need to remove the WW pump to have enough room to work. There is one screw on top and two nuts underneath in the wheel well; do not have to remove tire. Plus disconnect electrical plug; don't have to remove tubing - just lay whole unit over on top or engine.
- Nut that holds hard line into master was rounded off due to previous work. Ended up using Dremel to cut the line, then nut remover to get nut out. Major PITA.
- Flex line connection on slave: Bolt can be removed from top of engine looking down. You will need a 1/4" 10mm socket, long 1/4" extension and 1/4" universal, as 3/8" stuff is too big to fit. Major PITA, but easier than removing slave cylinder. I removed all of the old flexible line on engine end.
- I have left most of the old hard line stuff in place; to much trouble to remove around the brake master and ABS controller.
- Bleed it out with a small hand vacuum pump on the slave bleed screw; just make sure the master reservoir nevers goes below the low fill line. Took less than 10 min working by myself; only part of job not a PITA.
Pedal the best it's been in years. Good luck.