4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.

ShovelheadKevin--newbie here

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 10:43 AM
  #1  
ShovelheadKevin's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 7
From: God's country--Northeast Georgia
ShovelheadKevin--newbie here

Hi folks. Newbie to the Maxima forums here.
The last Nissan I had was an 82 280ZX 2+2 Turbo. That car was more fun to drive that either the C4 vette or the 924 Porsche that I've owned in the past. Once I got 'er spooled up past 2800RPM it was game over for opponents. ;-)

Anyway, I'm preparing to buy a 1995 Maxima. VIN comes out as a SE, but the options make me think maybe really a GXE. Everything from all leather, to full power options w/sunroof, to hi-end Bose system, etc.
It's a chain motor {thank you for the thread with the pics of chain vs belt motors!} w/300+ on the odo.
Car has been parked for a few months but when we jumped it off it runs sweet {no chain slap, valve noise, any other obvious uglies...} but haven't driven yet as I'm waiting for seller to get new title copy.

Only bad re interior is need a new P-brake boot and the sunroof doesn't retract {either fuse, switch or motor} but NO signs of leakage. The rest of the inside is SWEET! ;-)

I'll need to replace front bumper & windshield.
They hit something {maybe a deer...lots of that where I live...} and crunched the bumper, turns/marker lights and a few supports & brackets, as well as the front of the hood. I can save the hood.

I'm getting the car for $800 and I estimate another $4-5 hundred for bumper, glass, etc.
I think I'm getting a good deal {as long as road test proves good}.

What do y'all {who are def more knowledgeable than I re: Maximas}think?

Also, anyone in northeast Ga {around Lake Lanier} with info & advice or local parts vender recommendations?
Thanks folks.
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 10:47 AM
  #2  
Amerikaner83's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (17)
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 11,386
From: WA
IF VIN comes out SE it's an SE...white-face gauges wiill tell you. The SE could have all the basic stuff the GXE had, as well as all the leather and what-not as the GLE.

800 is a pretty good deal, but I dunno about with the damage from the "deer". Get it checked out to be sure.

Welcome!
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 11:21 AM
  #3  
ShovelheadKevin's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 7
From: God's country--Northeast Georgia
Ahhh...ok.
Black gauges, so I assume SE w/GLE options.
Thanks.

I took an OBDII reader and a tape measure with me when I checked it out.
All the front suspension/frame/bumper/support measurements indicate just cosmetic damage. The truth will be evident when I road test.

The only thing that came up on the scan was an IAC......and it did vary a little while idling, but I've already lined up another IAC for under $100.
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 11:34 AM
  #4  
Amerikaner83's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (17)
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 11,386
From: WA
And you can clean out the TB/IACV as well Not necessarily needs a replcement.

hmm...black gauges and leather = GLE.

Spoiler, yes or no? Foglights, yes or no? if no, then gle. If yes, SE with GLE gauges, which is weird. Oh well, not too important really
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 11:56 AM
  #5  
ShovelheadKevin's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 7
From: God's country--Northeast Georgia
I plan on SeaFoaming the car first thing and I'm hoping that that'll clear the code.. That stuff is pure magic on a high mileage car!

It IS a GLE then.
No spoiler, no fogs, black gauges

Other than the fogs, is there any other difference in front bumpers? I'd imagine not, but that's why I'm here, to ask those who know.

Then again, depending on what I find, I might upgrade to a 97-99 or an aftermarket bumper. Either way, I'll have to replace the "bracket filler" and a few other items behind the bumper.
Hood is already located for $70, if I decide not to dolly out the orig.
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 12:00 PM
  #6  
Amerikaner83's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (17)
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 11,386
From: WA
95-96 and 97-99 have different bumper assemblies, which translates to different headlights and grille as well. So if you change bumpers, change the headlights/grille too. 95/96 headlights were glass, 97 and up were plastic.

I love the mesh grill of the 95-96 myself. With the floating burger (nissan symbol, looks like a hamburger) in the middle.
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 12:14 PM
  #7  
Shift_A32B's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (14)
 
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,865
From: Los Angeles, CA
Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
95-96 and 97-99 have different bumper assemblies, which translates to different headlights and grille as well. So if you change bumpers, change the headlights/grille too. 95/96 headlights were glass, 97 and up were plastic.

I love the mesh grill of the 95-96 myself. With the floating burger (nissan symbol, looks like a hamburger) in the middle.
97-99 Front/Rear FTW!
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 12:16 PM
  #8  
ShovelheadKevin's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 7
From: God's country--Northeast Georgia
That's pretty much what I thought 95-96 vs 97+

I agree on the grill and surprisingly enough, the grill looks like it will be salvageable.
I'll prolly plan on taking my son and a half day at one of our local pick-a-parts and just yank the whole assy from one. The yards have many 95 & 96s in their inventory.
Besides, yanking one off a junker will only serve to teach what I'll need to know to re-hang it on mine.
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 12:22 PM
  #9  
GGENIUS's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,121
From: trenton, nj
Originally Posted by ShovelheadKevin
Ahhh...ok.
Black gauges, so I assume SE w/GLE options.
Thanks.

I took an OBDII reader and a tape measure with me when I checked it out.
All the front suspension/frame/bumper/support measurements indicate just cosmetic damage. The truth will be evident when I road test.

The only thing that came up on the scan was an IAC......and it did vary a little while idling, but I've already lined up another IAC for under $100.
this isnt always true, i want to warn you. the only way to TRULY check for structural damage is to take parts off until you stop seeing damage. sometimes the frame can be out of spec and itll still drive fine down the road
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 12:24 PM
  #10  
GGENIUS's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,121
From: trenton, nj
also bumper is very easy to change. its the 3 nuts on each side through the fenders. the bolts underneath holding it to the splash shield, and the fasteners under the grill, if i remember correctly.
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 01:59 PM
  #11  
ShovelheadKevin's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 7
From: God's country--Northeast Georgia
Originally Posted by GGENIUS
this isnt always true, i want to warn you. the only way to TRULY check for structural damage is to take parts off until you stop seeing damage. sometimes the frame can be out of spec and itll still drive fine down the road
Agreed.
If I have any questions after I get the bumper pulled, I have a friend w/a B&F shop I can have jig & check.
And thanks for the removal info.....now I can save the bulk of the day for drinking beer instead of at the yard!

BTW, I WILL be getting a manual once the car is actually parked in my garage.
Which do y'all suggest...Chilton or Haynes.
I like most of the Haynes books better, but maybe Chilton got one right. lol
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 04:36 PM
  #12  
infinimax96's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,095
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Pretty much everything on the SE was optional. My SE is also fully loaded. Heated seats, leather, auto climate etc.

I'd say $800 is a good deal if it runs solid, Is it 5speed or auto?

I would go with Haynes manual. I'd also download the FSM off the org. Better pictures and more detail in the FSM.
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 04:55 PM
  #13  
Kuhn_man's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 474
From: Carol Stream, Il
i have a haynes for mine and havent had problems with it yet but get the fsm and use the org and youll be more than fine...iirc theres a how to on switching from auto to 5 speed with pictures and everything look it up it will help you greatly
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 04:56 PM
  #14  
ShovelheadKevin's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 7
From: God's country--Northeast Georgia
It's auto, the wife can't drive stick.
My wife killed her 04 Kia Rio {The deadly broke TB} so this is going to be the her car once I have it looking good.
That way I can get my Talon back from her. She doesn't like the Talon because it sits so low and so does the driver. lol

Yeah, I like Haynes. I have a drawer full of them from all the different vehicles I've had....bikes AND cars. Somehow, I can't seem to part with them when I part with the vehicle.

Last edited by ShovelheadKevin; Jul 18, 2012 at 04:59 PM.
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 05:08 PM
  #15  
styliztik's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 562
From: Arizona
If it has body colored grill and door handles its an se, if not, gle.
Old Jul 18, 2012 | 06:27 PM
  #16  
Kuhn_man's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 474
From: Carol Stream, Il
Originally Posted by styliztik
If it has body colored grill and door handles its an se, if not, gle.
but it doesnt have fogs white guages or a spoiler. this car doesnt know what it wants to be. were more consered about if its an se or not than what hes asking lol im not pointing fingers but i find it funny that were still on this. and while we're at it what kind of rims does it have the 15 inch saw blades or something else. that being said where on the vin did you determin it was a se. anyways...yeah lol ive got books for lawnmowers tracters motorcycles and cars i dont even have anymore. but ya never know when you're gonna need one once that zombie invasion starts




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:33 AM.