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Replacing rear lower strut bolts/nuts??

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Old Oct 26, 2012 | 07:56 AM
  #1  
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Replacing rear lower strut bolts/nuts??

I've done some searching on replacing struts and all that, should be a very simple job using the quick strut assemblies. I saw 1 mention of a best practice of replacing the nuts on for the lower mount on the rear struts. You guys that have done this job a few times, do you typically replace those nuts? Just called a local dealer and it sounds like those bolts/nuts are getting hard to come by. Does anyone happen to have size information for those so I can at least pick up some bolts/nuts from the hardware store that I can throw in there in case I break one or something? I'm guessing the reason for replacing the nut at least is because it looks like a deformed lock-nut which are supposed to be use once and done, For locking I could just clean it and throw some loctite on it. What do the rest of you guys do?

TIA
Old Oct 26, 2012 | 08:17 AM
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i just did mine a couple weeks ago and used the old mounting hardware. you should be fine unless there is any noticeable damage to the bolt, threads, nut etc.
Old Oct 26, 2012 | 08:36 AM
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If that bolt ever breaks I would be very surprised
Old Oct 26, 2012 | 09:44 AM
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Yeah, I guess breaking one wasn't the right thing to put there, it is a pretty darn stout bolt. I'm more worried about the possibility of too much rust from a few years of hanging down where it does. And, since that nut looks like it has a deformed lock feature sometimes those can damage threads and such. I'm thinking I'll just soak the lower bolts with PB blaster for a couple days, then when I re-install just clean 'em up and throw some loctite at it. Thanks a lot for the input.
Old Oct 26, 2012 | 10:52 AM
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You don't need to use the loctite. Just torque the nuts to spec and you're good to go.
Old Oct 28, 2012 | 11:57 PM
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And does anyone know that torque spec by any chance?
Old Oct 29, 2012 | 02:23 AM
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Originally Posted by BigH2119
And does anyone know that torque spec by any chance?
Front: 103-117 ft-lb (140-159 N-m)
Rear: 72-87 ft-lb. (98-118 N-m)

Last edited by stanltod; Oct 29, 2012 at 02:29 AM.
Old Mar 18, 2013 | 06:38 PM
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anyone know the size and thread pitch of the lower strut bolt on the rear struts? When I undid mine on one side, the threads on both bolt and nut got all flattened out and cross-threaded.

Tried the hardware store display where you try to thread the bolt into a bunch of different size sockets, but there's too much of an extension on the bottom of the bolt for me to be sure exactly what size it is.
Old Mar 18, 2013 | 10:43 PM
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I ended up having to cut my bolts since they were stripped and so was the stupid little bracket thing. I just brought what I had to the farm supply store and got grade 10.9 bolts the same size/length, works great.
Old Mar 19, 2013 | 06:15 PM
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lucky me I found some old suspension nuts kicking around that fit the bolt. also used a flat washer and lock washer just in case.
Old Mar 20, 2013 | 09:17 PM
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I'm about to do this job as soon as it warms up here in philly. I swapped in FCS Struts all the way around this past summer, and I stripped the rear left strut pin and nut in that bracket thing. I got the pin and stripped nut back in, but not tight enough so now there is a little rattle in the back when driving over a bump or uneven pavement. Got my replacement pin and nut from nissanpartszone.com.
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 07:02 AM
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So I went to replace my rear struts and these damn bolts won't break. My impact wrench tried to round the head of the bolt itself so what is a relatively easy job just got harder for me. I may need to take it to a shop to have them broken. I even added heat with a torch and the bolt started to turn but the damn nut started turning with it to.

I may need a shop to weld than nut so it doesn't move, then try to break the bolts free. Damn New England winters I tell ya......
Old Apr 21, 2013 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by deezo
So I went to replace my rear struts and these damn bolts won't break. My impact wrench tried to round the head of the bolt itself so what is a relatively easy job just got harder for me. I may need to take it to a shop to have them broken. I even added heat with a torch and the bolt started to turn but the damn nut started turning with it to.

I may need a shop to weld than nut so it doesn't move, then try to break the bolts free. Damn New England winters I tell ya......
If you notice the "nut" in the back is staked to retain the bolt its a sob to get loose just juice it up and hit it with the propane/map torch.
Old Apr 22, 2013 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by cjandura
If you notice the "nut" in the back is staked to retain the bolt its a sob to get loose just juice it up and hit it with the propane/map torch.
My issue at this point is that it's spinning with the bolt now. I was using a MAP to hit it because it gets hotter than propane.
Old Apr 22, 2013 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by deezo

My issue at this point is that it's spinning with the bolt now. I was using a MAP to hit it because it gets hotter than propane.
Time to cut and replace ot then pita or you can have the nut welded in place but i think it going to be a loosing battle.
Old Apr 22, 2013 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by cjandura
Time to cut and replace ot then pita or you can have the nut welded in place but i think it going to be a loosing battle.
Well, I don't think that will be a bad thing since I had to cut and replace my cat bolts a couple weekends ago. The only issue is that the lower strut bolts are going to be too big for a dremel to get thru so I'll have to invest in a real cutter.
Old Apr 22, 2013 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by deezo

Well, I don't think that will be a bad thing since I had to cut and replace my cat bolts a couple weekends ago. The only issue is that the lower strut bolts are going to be too big for a dremel to get thru so I'll have to invest in a real cutter.
No just get the reinforced cutoff wheels for the dremel and cut 2 slots thru the nut.i use those wheels all the time or goto HF and get a $20 grinder and a $5 pack of 4" wheels
Old Apr 23, 2013 | 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by cjandura
No just get the reinforced cutoff wheels for the dremel and cut 2 slots thru the nut.i use those wheels all the time or goto HF and get a $20 grinder and a $5 pack of 4" wheels
I'm an HF head so I plan to just get a cutter from them, get the warranty and swap it when it breaks. It will do the job much faster than the dremel. My air hammer helped to finish the job when I did the cat bolts thought so I didn't have to cut all the way thru with the dremel.
Old Nov 18, 2015 | 01:48 PM
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Anybody have the specs on the bolt and nut? I have to cut mine since my impact driver rounded it off.
Old Nov 19, 2015 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by bloodthirstyemu
Anybody have the specs on the bolt and nut? I have to cut mine since my impact driver rounded it off.
Take the remains to a hardware store
Old Nov 19, 2015 | 02:18 PM
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good luck finding it.. i got the specs but nobody caries it especially with that particular shoulder. Its 12m-1.25x70 with a 10.9 grading. Your best bet is ordering it through Nissan for like $3. Ace hardware doesn't carry it and neither does any of the nut and bolt specialty shops around here either.
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