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Knock sensor

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Old Apr 16, 2013 | 05:09 PM
  #1  
Jay Wardyn's Avatar
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From: Ottawa, IL.
Knock sensor

I have a 95 GLE replacing the knock sensor without removeing the intake manifold is close to impossible. The sensor was removed long ago and ground is very corroded. Can I insall the sensor in a sensible place with good ground to make it work. Please help someone.....
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 05:27 PM
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You can't relocate it ...
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 05:35 PM
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Not that I know of but... I have heard f a few members wiring in a resistor or something so you might look into that.
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 05:47 PM
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What? I have a 95 se and I can stick my entire hand in between the banks....
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:00 PM
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Jay Wardyn's Avatar
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Originally Posted by BlackThornDemon
What? I have a 95 se and I can stick my entire hand in between the banks....
SE is manual you don't have all the automatic crap in front of it..
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:02 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by EvoTillIDie
You can't relocate it ...
Why ground is ground as long as its close to the engine block what the diff?
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 06:13 PM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Jay Wardyn
SE is manual you don't have all the automatic crap in front of it..
No.
Old Apr 16, 2013 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by EvoTillIDie
You can't relocate it ...
Yo you get the monitors set?
And no you caint just relocate it.i just did mine just get a toothbrush wirebrush and tape it to something and clean the ground
Old Apr 17, 2013 | 04:51 AM
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I cleaned mine with a giant spoon. Worked great......for the most part.
Old Apr 17, 2013 | 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Jay Wardyn
Why ground is ground as long as its close to the engine block what the diff?
Well if you notice the location of the sensor, it is in the middle of both cylinder banks because it needs to detect pinging from the cylinders in order to adjust timing. Where else can you move it to accomplish this same task?

Last edited by Trini Boom; Apr 17, 2013 at 06:17 PM.
Old Apr 17, 2013 | 05:37 AM
  #11  
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Boom is right. No relocating. The time it takes u to attempted that you could already remove the uim and replaced it already. Good luck.
Old Apr 17, 2013 | 08:45 AM
  #12  
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From: San Antonio, TX
I've got an SE trim and its an auto, but replaced mine luckily when I had to replace the oil gasket. Whats really a beech is the stupid EGR solenoids that have the bolts on the bottom off to the side of the opening between the block.
Old Apr 17, 2013 | 03:00 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Phromethius
I've got an SE trim and its an auto, but replaced mine luckily when I had to replace the oil gasket. Whats really a beech is the stupid EGR solenoids that have the bolts on the bottom off to the side of the opening between the block.
Flex wrench or a crow foot wrench. The bolt (nut, actually) comes off easy. But I only have one on my 96 CA spec...
Old Apr 17, 2013 | 03:19 PM
  #14  
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Removing the IM and properly torquing the KS down makes sense, considering it's function.

On the flip side, I'm auto and did mine without removing the IM with no hassle. Using a jack handle as leverage. Done it 2x this way.
Old Apr 17, 2013 | 05:33 PM
  #15  
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OP, have you read this thread http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-tutorial.html

KS removal is not that difficult, just be prepared to come out with a few small cuts on your hand
Old Apr 17, 2013 | 06:08 PM
  #16  
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best tool for this job? small hands. grab your wife/gf/child/random neighborhood kid/your friend with small hands. you get the jest. had my wife help me with ours (her car, anyway).
Old Apr 17, 2013 | 06:19 PM
  #17  
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For now, my hands are able to still fit in there while engine is cool and will come out with some skin cuts from head gaskets. Doing this when warm and you are asking for it...lol
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