Every time I hit any type of imperfection in the road, the rear of my car rattles, clunks, and just makes general noise.
If I apply any brake pressure, the nose will not happen. What gives?

 

Could be bad struts, the rear will feel sloppy when they go out. The trunk latch has 2 10mm bolts I think holding it that can loosen over time, and there is part of the exhaust pipe that runs on top of the rear beam that can hit and make noise when going over bumps.

 

This kinda timely ...

I've been taking note of some similar noises.

I've got brand friggin new struts installed too.

I was thinking that I needed to recheck all of my strut mount bolts.

 

If it goes away when you push the brake pedal then the calipers or pads are loose. Recommend a new hardware kit.

 

I use to think it was the hardware kit but it is not. The ultimate problem boils down to the caliper pins and the boot on the pins. I have tried everything in the books and realize that if those boots are not air tight, you will hear that noise regardless. Before disassembling OP, remove wheel and leave hand brake down. Hold caliper and move it up and down to see if it moves. If it does, grease up your pins but if those boots are not holding the bracket properly and you see grease and air coming out, it will stop temporarily and start back.

 

The boots hold grease in and water out. If they break the sliders will dry out and wear, causing looseness. A hardware kit will come with new sliders and boots, as well as pad shims.
As far as the boots directly causing noise, I have to disagree.

 

I am not saying you should disagree either but that was my experience for a year and a half figuring it out. I have done aftermarket and OEM hardware kit but OEM doesn't provide those boots which is what I would like to get.

 

To get those seals from Nissan, you have to order a seal kit that has those plus all the rubber seals for rebuilding the cylinder. Part number is 44120-61E26, list price (hold on, my butt hole hurts) $59 at your friendly dealer.

 

Might as well get remanned calipers.

 

Also, what I think contributes to the noise is the parking brake lines. The replacement ones were slightly longer but the hand brake needed to be adjusted for that extra length also. I know there was a TSB on this.

 

Alright, well I put in new Tokico HPs over the weekend and the noise is still there. Wouldn't i be better off just buying new calipers?
New problem! After installing the new shocks, I have an awful awful awful sound coming from the rear driver side shock. every time I hit even a hairline crack in the road my car sounds as if it's going to fall apart...any ideas? I'm so sick of noises in my maxima. hahaha ugh

 

Also, new shocks did not fix the super floaty rear end.

 

Not trying to judge but are you trying to e brake drift in your max or something? I had to replace some basic monroe shocks in my rear and all floatyness and looseness went away. I corner pretty hard to sometimes. Its a solid axle in the rear too, I'm not even sure what parts are left that would make it bouncy and loose. What was done with your springs? new springs? cut springs? stock reused?

 

Hahahaha. No offense taken, but no! I'll leave the drifting for RWD/ snowy roads
It's extremely floaty. I hit a bump or anything and the rear end bounces 3-5 times after. I hate it.
It's the Tokico HP shocks paired with Megan Racing shocks. I know they have a bad reputation on this forum but they're actually somewhat respected in the German import world IE Audi, VW, BMW.

 

That is just not right. That sounds like you don't even have a strut.

 

Okay guys. The banging was the carriage bolt that connects the bottom of the rear strut to the axle. Basically, the bolt goes through one side of this metal clip hole, through the shock, then out the other side of the metal clip. On the far side of the metal clip is a bolt that is supposed to remain stationary via two clamps keeping the bolt in place. My clamps rusted out and now the bolt can not be tightened all the way.
I'm trying to take off the rotor so I can have enough room back there to vice grip that "stationary bolt". I have the caliper & caliper bracket off but don't know what to do next to remove the rotor.
I'm full of problems.

 

If I remember when I redid my wheel bearing it should just be a cotter pin in the center of the rotor and the whole thing should slide off the lug bolts. Its a pretty strong cotter pin but that should be it, then everything else down to the wheel bearing just kinda shimmies off after that.

It has been a while though since I've looked at all that.

 

Okay, well I got the cotter pin off, the rotor must just be stuck on there or something. 17 years of rust!

 

The rotor can rust onto the wheel hub. Spray PB Blaster or WD40 around the wheel lugs, in the puller holes and around the center hub. Bang on the rotor with a hammer between the wheel lugs and then pull. I think the worst area is the center hub. The cotter pin has nothing to do with removing the rotor.

The cotter pin is part of keeping the wheel hub on. You may want to remove the wheel hub so that you can remove the splash shield the is most likely in the way. You have to remove the big nut that is behind the cotter pin and then wiggle the wheel hub off to get at the bolts for the splash shield.

see page 6 - http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/1996/RA.pdf

 

I tried all of those tactics to no avail. I did discover that there are two small holes in the rotor which were threaded. I drove a bolt in there and it popped the rotor right off, ensuing a pile of rusted metal chips in my driveway.

 

Those threaded holes you used are what I call the puller holes.

Are you saying that the rotor broke when you used the bolts?!?

 

Lolz no hes saying all the rusted metal flakes behind the rotor fell out

 

The word "chips" had me wondering. You never know what might happen when Murphy's law strikes.