I have a 2010 Maxima with just under 35k miles on it. I have kept good maintenance on it with oil changes every 3800 miles. I have recently noticed my VDC light and also Brake light on my dashboard go on and off periodically, sometimes at low speeds and even while staying idle. Just had a oil change about 1000 miles ago and the shop (where I bought the car) said everything looked great. Just wondering if anyone has ever experienced this, and if so, how you dealth with it?

Thanks for the help!

 

Check your brake fluid level as it is likely low. Top it off to max. Keep in mind this is an indication that your brake pads have worn significantly as well. Check to see if they need to be replaced.

 

Agreed I had the same problem. Toop off the brake fluid.

 

Yes, this is a very strong indicator the brake fluid is low. I had this happen after two years, then again recently (after five years) with my '08. I added fluid and things were fine again both times.

Like Shipwreck, I expected this to mean I might need new brake pads at some point, but my dealer checks at every oil change and says my original pads are still fine. I have never had brake pads last this long.

I think Nissan's use of engine compression to assist with braking has helped. I often slow without touching the brakes, and seldom touch the brakes on long, steep, winding descents off the Blue Ridge.

 

I had this problem too - i needed brakes.
Solution - turned the lease in early

 

I agree, the engine braking is superb and I find myself using it more often downhill or in traffic, and trying to coast to stops. It's not as strong as a few other cars I've driven, but that changes when shifting from D to Ds or "manual" mode.

 

Compared to the excess fuel, and engine wear a new set a brake pads are cheap. Also keep in mind while engine braking your brake lights are not on so someone behind you might not realize your slowing down until its too late.

 

The effect of engine braking is very subtle, and does not slow the car down very much. It is more along the lines of just not letting the car continue to accellerate quite as fast as gravity might otherwise cause it to do. And the fuel issue is not that great, as this engine braking is normally in effect only in certain driving situations, and can be overridden by simply touching the accellerator.

I look at this as a safety benefit, in that this engine braking helps keep the car under better control in certain downhill situations such as descending long, curvy mountain grades that may may last for many miles and that would normally require hundreds of sharp brake applications. The brakes are still used, and the brake lights are on, but part of the braking work is being done via engine compression.

I have taken two of my many Maximas over 200K miles each, with no real change in engine performance. In fact, I saw one of those two Maximas still being driven around town four years after I let it go with 206K on the odo. As for this engine compression braking, not much wear is being put on engines when there is no real load being put on them.

I agree with you that there are tradeoffs with this, as with everything. And brake systems can be rebuilt by the dealer for well under $1000. But when I trade my 2009 in next spring for the 2015 8th generation, I will have spent nothing on my brakes in five plus years of driving that car, and the dealer tells me the pads are still in great shape.

For those who are young and have the time to do their own brakes, using the brakes might be a preferable solution. But for those of us who retired over twenty years ago, and have great trouble even bending over, such things as redoing our own brakes is no longer an option.

 

Just got an xterra into the shop displaying same lights. All 4 corners were worn down to 1mm or so left of brake pad. Definitely get them checked. I don't think the oil change guys gave your brakes a good going through or even a look for that matter.

 

I have had the brake light indicator a few years ago and topped up with no further issues...now at 220,000 and plenty of pad left (although for some reason the rears are wearing more than the fronts.) But with Engine Braking and driving ahead, I have no idea how long they will actually last.

It is soooo much easier with the paddle shifter braking than with the manual (or at least when I was young....my father did not believe in using the clutch except to start out so all shifting was done with the right foot not the left. I wish he were alive to give him a smug smile showing the ease of shifting with the paddles and not worrying about the giant callused hand reaching over to box my ears when I didn't get the shift "quite right!!!!"

 

I don't want to sound like a broken record but add BRAKE FLUID. I had the exact same problem and I found these suggestions but my brake fluid was about a 1/3 of the way above the MIN line. I figured it was something else but I still added fluid to just below MAX and PROBLEM SOLVED!

Hope this helps.

 

I have the same issue. I am going to add brake fluid but can anyone please recommend any specific fluid? Planning on visiting autozone tomorrow. Thanks!

 

I had the the same issue two weeks ago. If your light has been going on for awhile now, it means you probably need to change your brake pads and rotors. I took it to the dealer and that's what they told me. The problem got fixed and I haven't had a problem since.

 

pick up the dot 3/dot 4 universal brake fluid

yeah if the light is on it means your brake pads are lower, hence needing more fluid to keep the system full. you can get rid of the light by adding more fluid (which is recommend in the short term, traction control is REALLY disabled when this light comes on). it does NOT mean you definitely need to change pads though, dealerships and other shops love talking people into brake jobs its good money. if your brakes are making noise from the wear tab, then the pads need changing. if your car vibrates when you brake, then the rotors most likely need changing.

 

Any DOT 3 brake fluid is fine, but it MUST be type DOT 3. This is available for just a couple of bucks at almost any convenience store. Auto parts stores will have several brands. I have no brand preference. Far more important than brand is how we put it in the car.

Always completely clean the area around the cap on the brake fluid reservoir before taking the cap off.

Be very careful to not get even one spec of dirt or grit in the reservoir while pouring the fluid in.

DOT 3 brake fluid does not keep well once the seal has been broken on the can. Technicians recommend using the can only once, then tossing the rest of the fluid and get a new can when the time comes for more fluid. I deviate from that mantra only slightly, in that I date and keep the can with the rest of the fluid (tightly closed) for around three or four months, just in case I have a leak and need more fluid fairly soon.