Hello,

My son is at college with my 2000 Nissan Maxima. It began running rough on a trip and he pulled into the Auotzone with a SEL code calling out the MAF. They changed the MAF for him and everything seemed fine. He drove it a few more times with no issue. Tonight, the car died on him while driving and failed to start until after a few tries. He managed to get it back home. He turned it off, started it and let it run for a bit. Then he put it in reverse and it died again. Now it wont start. Acts like it is not getting gas. No SEL codes this time. I put a new MAF on this car about a year ago, but autozone said it was definitely throwing he MAF code. Also, just before the MAF went bad on his trip, he had the car in a parking lot with the key in the on position and the AC running for about 15 minutes. Kids. Anyway, that killed the battery, but it did start fine soon after that. Any ideas? Could the MAF be related or maybe a fuel filter this time? Could leaving the key on with the AC running cause other issues than just a battery?

Thanks for any help.

Joe

 

Bad MAF from autozone. Aftermarket MAF's have reliability issues. Go with an OEM MAF sensor only. Don't need the entire assembly, just the sensor. Most dealers keep them in stock.

 

I wondered if the MAF could be bad, but would that keep it from starting now? And, no SEL code now either.

 

You need to be more specific. What exactly do you mean by "now it won't start" ? Does the starter crank the engine? Does it crank slow or fast? Did you fully re-charge the battery after it died?

Assuming the car cranks, and the battery is fully charged, is the fuel pump working? You should be able to hear the fuel pump priming after you turn the ignition switch on. Have your son listen to the pump - it should be making a bit of noise. If you suspect the fuel pump, check the fuel pressure next. There is a lot of information on this forum - just search for "fuel pressure" or "fuel pressure regulator".

Before you start down this path, I would first check the obvious: The MAF from Autozone could be bad, as suggested by foodmanry. Is the battery voltage at least 12V? How much does it drop when you crank? Also, the starter could be going bad .... BTW, mine went out at the same time as my MAF.

 

Car cranks, but essentially dies right away. I am getting it second hand from my son, but he can hear the fuel pump prime, then he turns the ignition and the car cranks, but wont completely start. he can give it some gas and hear the engine rev up, but wont stay on.

Could a bad MAF keep if from starting? Still no code thrown either. Autozone only changed the sensor and not the entire unit.

Thanks,
Joe

 

OK, are you saying that the car cranks, fires a few times, and then dies? If so, will it keep going if you give it some gas?
After re-reading your post .... the answer to my second question appears to be "yes".

I think the original suggestion by foodmanry stands: Get (or borrow & try) an other MAF, a good one. If that does not work, I would investigate IACV next (but the IACV is both more expensive and harder to get to than the MAF).

 

Unplug the MAF
If its the problem the car should run.
It will be in safe mode and not get above 2000 rpm I believe it is but it should run.

 

I have an 02 that I bought last year, chased around rough idle, weak start issues in the engine bay with new vacuum hoses, MAF, CAM sensors, valave cover gaskets blah blah.

I finally replaced the Fuel Pump and fuel filter under the back seat and haven't had a problem since!!

You, like me, thought it seemed like a no fuel issue. Well guess what supplies the fuel? The motor is probably getting tired, or the seals are leaky and it doesn't get good "suction/pressure" from the tank. Either way. I'd go that route if I were you. I bought from eBay, <$100 and replaced my self, relatively easy job with simple tools. Messy/stinky, but easy enough.

 

Yes.

 

Well, things have gotten a bit worse. My son had time today to work on the car some more. Replaced the MAF again. Car started and ran for a bit before dieing again at low speed. Now getting P0505 in addition to P0100. P0505 code for IAC. After researching, the IAC symptoms do seem to match what we have. Won't start without giving it gas and dies at low rpm's.

Considering now what to do since the car is only worth about $2800 (2000 Maxima in fair condition with 160K miles). I have seen threads where people spend almost that much for tow, analysis, IAC and dreaded ECM replacement.

Thinking about scrapping. Any opinions?

Thanks,
Joe

 

I would first confirm that the ECU is damaged. It needn't be - if you are lucky.
If the ECU is not damaged, you can just replace the IACV (about $240 from Nissan, $65 from eBay).

 

Thanks for all the help.

I did take it to Nissan and they confirmed that the IAC gasket failed, coolant leaked into IAC and damaged, then ECM shorted. So, the same common failure. They are quoting me new IAC replaced and new ECM with programming for $1500. This is about $1000 less than I actually expected. We are getting the "student discount" they said as this dealership serves a large college town and like the college business. From my estimate, parts alone if I purchased from Nissan were around $1000, not counting the fee for programming the ECM. I realize I could try to replace the chip, but I decided against that based on other advice on the board.

Now, I know none of you are fortune tellers, but what do you think? Do I drop $1500 in a car that's worth around $2800? They told me that they do not see anything else wrong with the car and this is THE major common break/fix for a Maxima. If I get another 20,000 miles, I would be happy. From the experience on this board, seem reasonable? Any other common high dollar issues like transmission or head gasket?

If I choose not to fix, I basically have to donate the car and have nothing.

Thanks again,
Joe

 

How many miles on the car?

The 2000/3.0L engine is bulletproof, and if you took care of the AT tranny, the car should last for a long time - 200k miles or more. You now fixed one major problem. Have you also disconnected your electronic engine mounts? (I assume it's an AT). You may also have to replace the cat/muffler, but that's not that expensive unless you live in California.

 

Thanks. I have not disconnected the mounts. I am considering that for sure. I did ask the deal about this. He told me that the mounts issue is not as common in our area/climate. Not sure about that but this is what he also said: The new ECM is designed for protection against the short. It is also guaranteed for life by Nissan.

Dealer also told me the ECM price has come down and now I am at $1300 for IAC and ECM out the door, including the diagnosis.

What is the downside to disconnecting the electronic engine mounts?

 

Interesting - the facts about the new ECU. What is the exact definition of "new"? (Mine was upgraded back in 2002- or 2003. Is it new or old?).

Re. the engine mounts: The potential downside is increased vibration. I couldn't feel any; if there is a difference I can't tell.

 

Given all the factors/variables you described I would get the service done. You should get another 20,000 out of the car easy provided the tranny holds up.

 

Nissan replacing the IAC and ECM today.

I read a good thread on discussing the engine mounts as the cause of a lot of this. Is there a thread with the process for disconnecting? Pictures?

Other than not have the function of the mounts, are the downsides? Does this cause a check engine light if these stay disconnected?

Thanks,
Joe

 

There shouldn't be any other side effects with disconnecting engine mount harnesses, but you may show a check engine light...maybe.

I would suggest you do an alternative where you bypass the coolant through the throttle body. Do this and even if that gasket fails again you won't get a short. A number of people have done this successfully and from what I understand it is a simple process.

 

I wouldn't bother doing the IACV coolant bypass. It took the old one almost 15 years to go bad. It was discovered that the shellac they used on the stepper motor winding in the IACV was not as good as it should have been, a nice way of saying that they screwed up making the thing. Anyway the new ones are made properly, hence the willingness to give a lifetime warranty

As for the motor mounts, if you are going to unplug them, have the engine running at at least 1,000 rpms when you pull the plugs. This way the mount will be in the "firm" mode.

The only possible negative is if the engine does not idle smoothly, you may feel the vibrations when you are at a stop light.

 

Check wires to CPS

 

ever consider getting a throttle body with IAC and a ECU from the junk yard? prob be $100 for both

 

With that repair being done, drive it until the wheels fall off, or the transmission stops turning the wheels. Doesn't sound like you have anything to worry about, and the 3.0 is a very strong and reliable engine. They will last until 300k if they're tended to and maintained.

Keep that transmission fluid clean and flushed.