Hey everyone, I purchased a 2000 maxima with 168k miles. I was provided with a full service history on the car. Shortly after buying the car is began running a little rough.Some hesitation on acceleration that comes and goes. The 3 codes Im getting now are P0302 Cylinder 2 misfire detected, P1320 ignition control signal malfunction, and P0105 Absolute pressure sensor circuit malfunction.
I bought a new map sensor for the P0105 code, and a new coil pack for the P0302 code. I disconnected battery while working on it. After I put in 2 new parts, I started car and let it idle, at this time I heard a hissing noise, and noticed I accidentally knocked a vacuum hose off. I reconnected it as it ran. The car still has a misfire to it, that seems to come and go. Within the first 100yds of driving it after new parts, the car began hesitating, and check engine light was blinking.
My first question is, should I dc battery again, and let it relearn again, since I accidentally had that vacuum hose undone for first min or 2 the first time I started it? Second question is, do you think it's possible the new Duralast coil I got from Autozone could be faulty? I have only driven the car about 2 miles total since I reset ecm with new parts. When I pulled in driveway after short trip today, the car started running normally, with no miss.Check engine light still on though. I should retype all this, but I found code for coil pack 4-5 days ago, installed a new coil pack, then took it back to autozone, and the same code came back. THEN I went and bought a map sensor, new spark plugs, and reset the ecm. Another thing I noticed was oil on the threads of the #5 sparkplug, but the code is thrown for cylinder #2, so Im not sure if thats affecting anything or not. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated

 

Oil leaking into rear tubes is a 3.5 problem.

Swap the coil with the next cylinder and see if it follows. If it does, then you know the coil is bad.

 

Check the spark plugs

 

Not sure whether the Duralast coil might be faulty but it won't last like the new OEM; the new/improved OEM coils have grey dots on them, and they are good. I have had a set for 11 years now. They are made by Hitachi and Rockauto.com sells them for about $49 http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....359222&jsn=361 ).

You should find out why is oil leaking on your spark plug #5. The 3.0L engine is bulletproof - there should be no leaks. Mine does not use any oil, not even half a cup, in 5,000 miles.

 

Clean the cylinder with the oil in it by getting A long screw driver and getting A clean rag.....don't drop the rag in the cylinder hole lol. Change that plug and make sure the bottom of the coil are free of oil from before when you took it out.....you might be lucky and not have A spark plug seal leak which would need A removal of the intake manifold etc. Make sure to stop over filling ur oil....might have made its way up some how.

IMO you have A oily plug in cylinder 5 and A bad coil in #2.

 

Thanks guys! I have replaced all the spark plugs with Autolite double platinum. The old plugs were all gapped at .043, the new autolites were stock gapped to .050, so I set them all to .043 to match. Im debating now on dc battery again, and changing coil from #2, to #4, too see if the code follows...great idea! I did change oil as soon as I got the car, I put in 4 1/4 qts, checked stick after car sat overnight, showed full. As for the coils. I see some of the coils have a white dot sticker on them, and 1 don't. I don't see any with a grey sticker. I will get the ones from rockauto in the future if needed, thank you for the suggestion. My wife says the car now is running great, but ses light still on....I'll try and swap coils, reset ecm, and get another scan tomorrow.

 

Update: I swapped coil packs between cylinders ,cleaned maf sensor with maf cleaner, new air filter, and then reset ecm. Car ran almost normal (slightly underpowered) for about 5 miles, check engine light never came on. Next morning as soon as I start it check engine light comes on. The hesitation is back, and the misfire I can feel sometimes at idle. I took to autostore and had codes an again, showed the P0302 cylinder #2 misfire...(still same cylinder). also code P0105 is still coming up for absolute pressure sensor (even though I replaced the map sensor also). I took it for a long drive today, and it gradually got worse and worse. at one point it would barely accelerate, and the check engine light was blinking at me. My next thought it maybe a bad fuel injector?

 

No, you have run out of time.
The blinking CEL light is telling you that damage is being done to your car, and continues to be done for every minute you keep driving it like this. It's very likely that you are destroying your Cat converters ... .
If I were in your position, I would take the car to the dealer and have them diagnose the problem. Only the dealer has the tools to do this properly; they should charge you a nominal fee (equivalent to approx. 1 hr labor) for this diagnosis. Then, you can decide how/where to fix your car.

 

The nearest Nissan dealer to me is about 50 miles away. They do offer a special now for $29 to run codes and "perform full system diagnosis related to check engine light". So I assume they would go as far as compression checks if needed. I guess my question now is how much dmg will it do if I drive it an hour to get to dealership? Or would you pay a lot extra to have it towed, or try a local reputable shop?

 

pull #2 plug and have another look at it

 

Well, as I mentioned, I replaced all spark plugs, and made sure they were all gapped at .043. I will try to pull it out again today, see if I notice anything abnormal.

 

yep...that's what I meant

 

I thought this forum was to help people solve problems, and fix problems on their own. The only suggestion I get now, is to take it to the dealer?

 

the dealer suggestion was made for diagnostic reasons so you are not just throwing parts at the issue.

 

Are you sure its the right one.... 1,3,6 are in the back.... 2 is up front to the left

 

Yep, #2 is what the code is saying, and that's the one Ive been trying things on. #2 is front left.The car runs great most times now. If it ever struggles, I usually just notice a lack of power in lower rpm ranges.I'm thinking it may be partially clogged injector, I believe the car sat for a while before we bought it. I floored it to pass a slow van yesterday. I love how it jerked my wife's head back!..It has all kinds of power!...most days..haha Im not getting the shake at idle anymore either, like it was doing for a while.

 

It can possibly be carbon buildup on the piston causing it to MIS when hot. When there is a lot of carbon, it can retain the heat from combustion and can possibly autoignite the next incoming fuel air charge before the plug gets too! I would personally get the engine nice and warm and then spray half to a whole can of seafoam through the intake while running. You have to kill the motor as someone else is spraying so that the seafoam can soak into the carbon and make it burnable. After 5 minutes you can start it and then take it to the streets to show those cylinders some high reving hot temps to burn out the carbon. You WILL blow alot of smoke if there truly is alot of carbon build up, just be sure to spray after the maf like through a brake booster line or other source of vacuum. Alot of members of acurazine including I do it regularly.

 

Your first mistake is using auto lite plugs. replace them with NGK's and if you're on a budget use NGK coppers to fix your misfire.

 

Thank you for the replies. I didn't realize autolites were that bad? I started it this morning after it sat outside in about 30 degree temps. It idled fine, but as I backed out, I could hear/feel the miss.Engine rpms dropped for split seconds. I'm on 2nd bottle of fuel injector cleaner now.(Gumout). Again it mostly struggles at lower rpm.(Not all the time). I drove 10 miles the other day, and going up a hill, I barely pressed gas and it easily accelerated uphill. Today I take same hill, and I gotta press gas a lot more to get over same hill. I will try the seafoam soon. I didn't know they had in a spray bottle?

 

seriously get those autolites outta there.

 

ok, I will try that. ty

 

Also when using additives in the fuel, I. Try to add them with as little fuel as possible in tank then fill tank with 4 gallons. That will mix it evenly with the fuel and it will be more concentrated. The higher concentration will help degunk the injector if that's the issue. Remember to WOT with the additives in tank so that the injectors flow as much fuel/additive as possible.

 

I bought just one ngk plug today. I was going to reset ecm again after installing it. If this fixes the misfire, I will replace all 6. I put in half a bottle of cleaner with a couple gallons of gas near empty tank, and ran wot for a bit... I'll try the ngk plug in there by tomorrow,let you know if that worked.Thx again

 

No prob, i just got a 00 max a little while ago. i paid 500 and it has 218xxx on it. the 5 speed and the new clutch is what sold me. oil was blacker than dirt but still didnt tick or no chain noise so thats good. if theres no seafoam video diy ill have to mock one up tomarrow if my ngk's get here. thr max needs 4 mounts, tires, air filter, and new oil and coolant but for 500 it was a steal. shifts like butter.

 

Yea, I kinda wish mine was a manual also. Would be fun So far I did replace the 1 plug with an ngk. I have not noticed a miss since, but the cel is still on. The autolite plug with only a week or 2 driving on it, did have a noticeable amount of black soot on it.I have been running wot when I can. I'll try the seafoam next.

 

The black soot is from not burning properly or fully. It's becoming carbon fouled already. I had a random misfire code, I took all the plugs out and they were Bosch, basically asking for a misfire by having anything but ngk. Once I replaced them all with ngk v powers it ran smooth as butter. All the Bosch plugs were BLACK as hell. These cars are picky about OEM coils and stock plugs, anything else will either barely run or show a cel. There are multiple threads about the spark plug issues.

 

: Really ? My E3s been good changed em after 80K even tho they said 100k, still were fine...new ones gave me some extra powa.....plus they claim to give you extra 5 hp. Ngk is fine too. Also wanna add that I'm still on some original coils with 200K....only change the ones that go one by one lol.....E3s make em last longer

 

I remember seeing posts saying the same about bosch plugs.
More proof is always good. Plugs aren't just plugs to VQs

 

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/570739-what-king-spark-plugs-does-your-4th-gen-have.html

that thread is a good read. there was an example on how someone used autolites in a ford and messed it up do to using a diffrent temp plug. the plug wasnt specd for that head. The ngks used for stock have a heat range to match the head there in. if your using the wrong heat range ( colder, hottet, etc) it could contribure to poor running and carbon buid up.

 

Jason......from my experience oem coils are the way to go. They have to be Japanese coils aka Hanshin or Hitachi. If you don't you will get the cel on and you will still get the misfire. The car will run rough. The same goes with the spark plugs. NGK is the way to go. Our cars are picky but worth it. I had the same issue. Cylinder misfire on bank 2. I bought a coil at Napa Auto parts and i would still get the codes. Until i discovered that we need Japanese Coils and not stuff from China and Poland. That's what most car part stores carry. The real culprit on my car was bad wiring on my engine harness from the wire that connects to my fuel injector causing bank 2 to misfire. I just opened it up and checked to see the problem. I taped it up with electrical tape. Hope this helps. I have a 2000 Maxima GLE with 249k miles on it. So its definitly worth it