I replaced my TPS recently to try to fix an intermittent high idle problem when in park or neutral (automatic). I tried adjusting the TPS by twisting it as far to the right as possible, and I still have the issue. Although replacing the TPS did improve the shifting and throttle response, I still have the high idle issue. The high idle issue goes away when I unplug the TPS but I obviously cant drive the car like that. Before I buy a new idle control valve is there anything different (and cheaper) that could be the issue?

 

# 1 ... I'm not reading that you're adjusting the TPS while its at full operating temperature. Heat creates electrical resistance. TPS replacement and adjustment procedures call for the sensor being at operating temp.

# 2 ... I'm not reading that you're testing the TPS resistance with a multi-meter while at operating temp. You "appear" to be testing it and determining its proper operation simply based on your car's behavior.

 

You didn't read my post properly. I already replaced the TPS with a brand new one. So that one is bad too? I adjusted the TPS as FAR as it would turn to the right (lowest rpm you can put it at), I cannot rotate it anymore in the direction it needs to go. it won't go any further. So why would the temperature matter?

 

Feel free to debate this.

Tell you what ... Go buy 3 more brand new OE sensors and install each one using the same process you've already used.

When you get the same result, come back and ask the same fundamental question.

Got an FSM or some other repair manual?

If so, read it.

 

THAT'S MY POINT. It's not the TPS, I am asking what else it COULD be.

 

... and what I'm telling you is that, based what you've told us, you haven't tested your new TPS properly to determine your new one(s) are or aren't operating properly.

"Why does temperature matter"?

Google or the search function is your friend.

 

Ok. So you are telling me that even though my TPS Is already rotated to the lowest point possible on the axis, I can somehow set it lower if it's hot? Temperature will not change the adjustment range of the tpm, only change the voltage output from it.

 

There is a revised adjustment procedure for setting the proper TPS position using feeler gauges, asuming you haven't messed with the idle screw on the TB.
Engine must be warmed up and you need a multimeter to test resistance.
I hope this link works https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...42059868,d.cGw

 

Never mind guys. Engine overheated and blew up. FUBAR. Done. I mean a NASCAR level blow up. Thank you for the link though.

 

wow, wtf? i mean, obviously there was a lot more going on with your vq then you realized. high idle won't "blow up" your engine unless you had multiple factors adding to the problem.

 

Wow... If there is an high idle, there is obviously a serious issue going on.. but maybe you were low on oil..blew the heads...I don't even know. Obviously wasn't the tps.

 

Next time ask BEFORE throwing parts at a car. It was probably a huge vacuum leak causing high idle and a lean condition.

Learn some basic diagnostic procedures. They are universal and work for all vehicles.

 

A big vacuum leak will cause a lean condition followed by excessive heat. I experienced that on my F350 and it melted my CAT, rear muffler, and O2 sensors. Luckily the recently changed coolant saved the V10.

 

Did you recently go to the back of the engine, remove the intake, or anything? I'm asking because it involves removing/disconnecting a lot of vacuum lines that maybe you forgot to put one back on.