4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.

97 3.0 issue

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 30, 2017 | 09:30 PM
  #1  
Noah Heflin's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3
97 3.0 issue

Drove from Florida to Texas recently, got 36 mpg running the a/c and cruise at 78 mph.
Pulled into a gas station 1/2 mile from home, shut it off. Came out 3 minutes later, restarted the car and it was running REALLY rough. Nursed it home, put the OBD scanner on it, no codes. Tried changing the coils, plugs and cam sensor, no change. Revved it up, thinking it was loaded up then shut it down.
Next day, tried to start it, would only crank. No popping, banging or any attempt at starting.
Pulled the front valve cover for giggles and found a ton of baked on sludge.
I have had it for about 9 months, changed the oil regularly and did a Sea Foam treatment on it when I bought it.
My thought is this: one of the timing chain tensioner got stuck from the sludge, which allowed enough slack to advance the timing, thus the 36 mpg at 80 mpg. In the process, the tensioner stayed back far enough, that when I shut it down, the chain jumped, causing the no start.
The car had 128,000 on it and ran like a scalded dog up to this point.
Any thoughts or suggestions beyond the obvious compression check??
Should I be looking for another engine? or cut my losses where I am? I know it's an interference engine, but I can't help but wonder if it's damaged
Old May 30, 2017 | 10:27 PM
  #2  
Violator's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 665
Maf sensor, knock sensor, injectors are a few guesses
Old May 30, 2017 | 10:36 PM
  #3  
JvG's Avatar
JvG
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,974
From: Portland, Oregon
Get a compression guage. Screw into each spark plug hole. Remove fuel pump fuse. Write down the reading on each cylinder. Compare to what they should be.

If the readings are low, you have a problem.
Old May 30, 2017 | 10:42 PM
  #4  
JvG's Avatar
JvG
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,974
From: Portland, Oregon
[QUOTE=JvG;9148747]Get a compression guage. Screw into each spark plug hole. Remove fuel pump fuse. Write down the reading on each cylinder. Compare to what they should be.

If the readings are low, you have a problem.



Sorry, I read that you have already considered a compression test.

If you have access to compressor, you could bring a suspected bad cylinder to tdc with all valves closed. If any valves are bent, you should hear air escape from either the intake or the tailpipe.
Old May 31, 2017 | 06:24 PM
  #5  
Noah Heflin's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3
[QUOTE=JvG;9148748]
Originally Posted by JvG
Get a compression guage. Screw into each spark plug hole. Remove fuel pump fuse. Write down the reading on each cylinder. Compare to what they should be.

If the readings are low, you have a problem.



Sorry, I read that you have already considered a compression test.

If you have access to compressor, you could bring a suspected bad cylinder to tdc with all valves closed. If any valves are bent, you should hear air escape from either the intake or the tailpipe.
Yeah, that would work also. Might also tell me if the valves are actually open when they should be closed, verifying the cams have moved. Without tearing a head off there isn't really any way to be sure
Old May 31, 2017 | 06:32 PM
  #6  
Noah Heflin's Avatar
Thread Starter
Newbie - Just Registered
 
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 3
Any other ideas? Am I on the right track?
Old May 31, 2017 | 06:45 PM
  #7  
JvG's Avatar
JvG
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 2,974
From: Portland, Oregon
Originally Posted by JvG
Get a compression guage. Screw into each spark plug hole. Remove fuel pump fuse. Write down the reading on each cylinder. Compare to what they should be.

If the readings are low, you have a problem.
[QUOTE=Noah Heflin;9148808]
Originally Posted by JvG
Yeah, that would work also. Might also tell me if the valves are actually open when they should be closed, verifying the cams have moved. Without tearing a head off there isn't really any way to be sure
If the chain has jumped, the valves might have been bent by hitting the pistons. A leak down test with a compressor whIle the cylinders are at tdc would confirm this. A compression test would also offer clues.
Old Jun 1, 2017 | 02:33 PM
  #8  
M in KC's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 292
Confirm, spark, fuel and compression. Then report back.




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:00 PM.