Wheel hub
To replace the hub assembly the entire steering knuckle needs to be removed. You will also need to replace the wheel bearings after popping off the hub assembly. You'll need a 36mm deep socket to remove the axle nut.
The Front Axle FSM gives all the details
http://www.boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/FA.pdf
I replaced my front wheel bearings and hub assemblies early last year
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...placement.html
Having a 20 ton commercial shop press, a 60 gallon commercial air compressor, an air wrench that delivers 1100 ft/ lb of torque, and a heavy bench vise I did it in my home garage. If you don't have a shop press then like most other members you'll need to bring the dropped knuckle along with a new hub assembly, wheel bearing, and bearing seals to a mechanic.
The Front Axle FSM gives all the details
http://www.boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/FA.pdf
I replaced my front wheel bearings and hub assemblies early last year
https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...placement.html
Having a 20 ton commercial shop press, a 60 gallon commercial air compressor, an air wrench that delivers 1100 ft/ lb of torque, and a heavy bench vise I did it in my home garage. If you don't have a shop press then like most other members you'll need to bring the dropped knuckle along with a new hub assembly, wheel bearing, and bearing seals to a mechanic.
Last edited by jholley; Jun 4, 2017 at 09:06 AM.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,622
From: Long Island
If you don't have space for a compressor, hoses and impact guns, you can cheat like I do. I bought a Kobalt 110 volt electric Impact Gun kit at Lowes. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-8-Am...Wrench/3307992 So far, it has done everything I needed when working on my Maxima. I bought a 36mm Impact Socket at either Amazon or eBay for under $15 delivered.
You will also need a Torque Wrench to torque on your spindle nut after the replacement of the bearings. 205 ft pounds is right in the middle of the range. As well as Tie Rod end and Ball Joint. Torque the Ball Joint before inserting the axle.
Make sure you have a heavy hammer to pound the metal around the tie rod end and ball joint to break the joints. Be careful to not rip the boots if you plan on reusing them. If not, a Moog Problem Solver Lower Control Arms come complete with new bushings and ball joint. So you'll need to grease the fitting.
If he damaged the Strut assembly, bearing & hub assembly and CV axle, check the inner and outer tie rod ends on that side and the steering knuckle as well. Is your ABS light on? You might also have to replace the ABS sensor cable.
The toe bone is connected to the head bone. Sometimes damage like this proliferates further than expected, check everything. You'll need to do an alignment when finished.
Hope this helps.
You will also need a Torque Wrench to torque on your spindle nut after the replacement of the bearings. 205 ft pounds is right in the middle of the range. As well as Tie Rod end and Ball Joint. Torque the Ball Joint before inserting the axle.
Make sure you have a heavy hammer to pound the metal around the tie rod end and ball joint to break the joints. Be careful to not rip the boots if you plan on reusing them. If not, a Moog Problem Solver Lower Control Arms come complete with new bushings and ball joint. So you'll need to grease the fitting.
If he damaged the Strut assembly, bearing & hub assembly and CV axle, check the inner and outer tie rod ends on that side and the steering knuckle as well. Is your ABS light on? You might also have to replace the ABS sensor cable.
The toe bone is connected to the head bone. Sometimes damage like this proliferates further than expected, check everything. You'll need to do an alignment when finished.
Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 227
If you don't have space for a compressor, hoses and impact guns, you can cheat like I do. I bought a Kobalt 110 volt electric Impact Gun kit at Lowes. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-8-Am...Wrench/3307992 So far, it has done everything I needed when working on my Maxima. I bought a 36mm Impact Socket at either Amazon or eBay for under $15 delivered.
Wh
You will also need a Torque Wrench to torque on your spindle nut after the replacement of the bearings. 205 ft pounds is right in the middle of the range. As well as Tie Rod end and Ball Joint. Torque the Ball Joint before inserting the axle.
Make sure you have a heavy hammer to pound the metal around the tie rod end and ball joint to break the joints. Be careful to not rip the boots if you plan on reusing them. If not, a Moog Problem Solver Lower Control Arms come complete with new bushings and ball joint. So you'll need to grease the fitting.
If he damaged the Strut assembly, bearing & hub assembly and CV axle, check the inner and outer tie rod ends on that side and the steering knuckle as well. Is your ABS light on? You might also have to replace the ABS sensor cable.
Wg
The toe bone is connected to the head bone. Sometimes damage like this proliferates further than expected, check everything. You'll need to do an alignment when finished.
Hope this helps.
Wh
You will also need a Torque Wrench to torque on your spindle nut after the replacement of the bearings. 205 ft pounds is right in the middle of the range. As well as Tie Rod end and Ball Joint. Torque the Ball Joint before inserting the axle.
Make sure you have a heavy hammer to pound the metal around the tie rod end and ball joint to break the joints. Be careful to not rip the boots if you plan on reusing them. If not, a Moog Problem Solver Lower Control Arms come complete with new bushings and ball joint. So you'll need to grease the fitting.
If he damaged the Strut assembly, bearing & hub assembly and CV axle, check the inner and outer tie rod ends on that side and the steering knuckle as well. Is your ABS light on? You might also have to replace the ABS sensor cable.
Wg
The toe bone is connected to the head bone. Sometimes damage like this proliferates further than expected, check everything. You'll need to do an alignment when finished.
Hope this helps.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 227
I got to replace the steering knuckle is what I meant my bad .. so what size are the bolts ? I know the ball joint nut is 22 mn the axle nut is 36 mn strut nuts size ? Any others? First time doing it
If you don't have an impact wrench, loosen the axle nut before you jack up the car. It is torqued to 174 to 230 pound feet, so you will probably have to use a breaker bar with an extension (a piece of pipe works) and stand on it. Also loosen the lug nuts before jacking the car up.
On my 97, the ball joint nut was 19mm.
You will need to disconnect the sway bar link from the control arm, a 14mm socket and a 12mm open end.
The nuts & bolts for the strut on the hub are 2 different sizes, 17mm on the nut & 19 mm on the bolt head.
You will need to remove the brake caliper from the hub, I forget the size, either 14 or 17mm. You will need to support the brake caliper so it doesn't rip the flexible brake line apart. I use a coat hanger to wire it to the coil spring for support.
If you have ABS brakes, you will have to remove the ABS sensor from the hub. I forget the size, 10 or 12 mm.
The axle will probably be stuck in the hub. Have a piece of 2x4 and a big hammer to break it free.
On my 97, the ball joint nut was 19mm.
You will need to disconnect the sway bar link from the control arm, a 14mm socket and a 12mm open end.
The nuts & bolts for the strut on the hub are 2 different sizes, 17mm on the nut & 19 mm on the bolt head.
You will need to remove the brake caliper from the hub, I forget the size, either 14 or 17mm. You will need to support the brake caliper so it doesn't rip the flexible brake line apart. I use a coat hanger to wire it to the coil spring for support.
If you have ABS brakes, you will have to remove the ABS sensor from the hub. I forget the size, 10 or 12 mm.
The axle will probably be stuck in the hub. Have a piece of 2x4 and a big hammer to break it free.
Here is a link to the factory service manual (FSM).
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/
section FA (Front Axle) has diagrams and torque specs. Unfortunately they do not give you bolt sizes. You may also what to look at section BR (Brakes).
Section IDX is an alphabetical index for the manual.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/
section FA (Front Axle) has diagrams and torque specs. Unfortunately they do not give you bolt sizes. You may also what to look at section BR (Brakes).
Section IDX is an alphabetical index for the manual.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 227
If you don't have an impact wrench, loosen the axle nut before you jack up the car. It is torqued to 174 to 230 pound feet, so you will probably have to use a breaker bar with an extension (a piece of pipe works) and stand on it. Also loosen the lug nuts before jacking the car up.
On my 97, the ball joint nut was 19mm.
You will need to disconnect the sway bar link from the control arm, a 14mm socket and a 12mm open end.
The nuts & bolts for the strut on the hub are 2 different sizes, 17mm on the nut & 19 mm on the bolt head.
You will need to remove the brake caliper from the hub, I forget the size, either 14 or 17mm. You will need to support the brake caliper so it doesn't rip the flexible brake line apart. I use a coat hanger to wire it to the coil spring for support.
If you have ABS brakes, you will have to remove the ABS sensor from the hub. I forget the size, 10 or 12 mm.
The axle will probably be stuck in the hub. Have a piece of 2x4 and a big hammer to break it free.
On my 97, the ball joint nut was 19mm.
You will need to disconnect the sway bar link from the control arm, a 14mm socket and a 12mm open end.
The nuts & bolts for the strut on the hub are 2 different sizes, 17mm on the nut & 19 mm on the bolt head.
You will need to remove the brake caliper from the hub, I forget the size, either 14 or 17mm. You will need to support the brake caliper so it doesn't rip the flexible brake line apart. I use a coat hanger to wire it to the coil spring for support.
If you have ABS brakes, you will have to remove the ABS sensor from the hub. I forget the size, 10 or 12 mm.
The axle will probably be stuck in the hub. Have a piece of 2x4 and a big hammer to break it free.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 1,622
From: Long Island
DON'T try to disconnect the ABS sensor/cable from the knuckle. The head of the bolt will surely shear off. Don't ask me how I know. Now if you're replacing the knuckle, it doesn't matter. But be careful removing the sensor so hopefully you can reuse it. (expensive)
So, follow the cable up the wheel well and disconnect the bracket holding the cable (2 x 10mm bolts) and further up to the grommet, unseat the grommet. Go under the hood and you'll see the connector not far from where the grommet was mounted. Disconnect it from this end if you're reusing the knuckle.
A little narrative and maybe a picture or two would help us be more accurate with the proper steps.
So, follow the cable up the wheel well and disconnect the bracket holding the cable (2 x 10mm bolts) and further up to the grommet, unseat the grommet. Go under the hood and you'll see the connector not far from where the grommet was mounted. Disconnect it from this end if you're reusing the knuckle.
A little narrative and maybe a picture or two would help us be more accurate with the proper steps.
If you don't have an impact wrench, loosen the axle nut before you jack up the car. It is torqued to 174 to 230 pound feet, so you will probably have to use a breaker bar with an extension (a piece of pipe works) and stand on it. Also loosen the lug nuts before jacking the car up.
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My first method was throwing on the spare tire then loosening the axle nut while it's on the ground with the parking brake tightened. With the car raised and the wheel removed another method I've used is placing a large flat screwdriver between the brake disc slots. You'll need to rest the screwdriver onto the top of the caliper bracket and apply a thin shop towel around it to prevent any metal scraping.
Last edited by jholley; Jun 4, 2017 at 02:33 PM.
How easy or hard it will be to loosen the nuts and bolt depends on where you live. If you live in a snowbelt area, it will be harder because the salt causes corrosion. Soak the nuts and bolts with PB Blaster and let it sit for an hour or more. Give them a 2nd shot when you are ready to do the work. Don't use WD40, it's not as good. Use 6 point sockets, they are much less likely to round off the bolts.