Hi I'm new to all this and I Know no mechanics whatsoever so I was just googleing around online. Anyways I have a 1997 Nissan Maxima GLE it has about 200k + miles on it.. it was running fine then one day it broke down for about 30 mins I let it sit I was at the gas station an it finally started.. Was on my way home I got to the corner of my street an it died out. I had to push it in front of my house and the car has sat ever since won't start at all but it does crank like it wants too. I jumped it for over 30 mins to see if it was the battery nope nothing happen.. all the lights come on everything. People keep saying ita the alternator, starter or fuel pump maybe. So when I try to start it an press on the gas you can smell the gas. My car just won't start 😞 Somebody anybody give me your opinion please

 

So your car ran normally, suddenly it doesent.

It seems to want to crank at normal speed.

So it sounds like the battery and alternator are ok.

You smell gas, so the fuel pump is ok.


Seems to me that the people you spoke with are not very knowledgeable about cars, in my humble opinion......

An engine needs three things to run.

Compression. ....... ok
Fuel. ............ ok, problem perhaps
Spark.............. perhaps not

Could be engine controls such as the sensors. Or a loose conection at one.

You need to buy a basic code reader . Like at an auto parts store. Don't cost all that much. Less than you pay to have a mechanic to do the same thing, pretty much.

The code reader plugs into a connector at the bottom of the dashboard on the left side.

The code reader should be able to tell us what's wrong with your car. Then we might be able to help you.

This is the best I can do to help, given your discripting of the problem. It was good enough for us to deal with.

We can offer more precise help once we learn what might be a problem. Then how to fix it.

You could look for videos about this kind of problem on you tube. Perhaps even on a 97 maxima.

Sometimes I look at available videos, even though I've been working on cars for years.

It really cool when I can watch someone do the very same repair which I want/ need to do. I watch again while actually doing the repair. I pause where needed.

Do the same thing as the guy. Monkey see, monkey do.

Good luck

 

You need to establish if you have spark at the plugs. If so, then it sounds like a fuel problem. It could be the fuel pressure regulator or your fuel injectors. These cars also have battery grounding problems. Is your Service Engine Soon light on? You need to have your car scanned for codes. Some might be stored.

 

I'm going to call auto zone an see how much one of those testing scanner things are. Thank you for your opinions on the problem Im a girl lol an Kno absolutely nothing about cars or anyone who does for that matter. Yes my engine light is on it's been on for awhile now

 

How can I tell if it has spark or not? I actually have been researching alot on this car watching videos an what not lol but anyways how do I tell if it has something to do with what you guys say "spark"???

 

PH..... mentioned fuel pressure regulator.

So how much gas do you smell? A little is ok.

If it smells a lot, you might have a fuel leak on the engine. Could be the fuel pressure regulaor, could be a hose in a place difficult to get to by someone with no experience. but a search within the forum can show the photos of the fix. Including where the part lives, and what it looks like.

I respect any one who has the will to take this on.

Sometimes we find ourselves in a situation when dyi is the only affordable option.

We all start somewhere.

You might feel real good about yourself if you succeed.

 

I smell only a little gas not alot. I'm gonna try myself cheaper way huh? Lol but I may honestly need help..

 

The spark plugs make an actual electric spark to light the gasoline inside the engine. They need electricity. It might not be getting it at all, or the computer, which runs the spark and the fuel injection is confused because a sensor is bad.

The codes you need to provide will help us narrow this down

 

Ok I will get those codes I will let you know..

 

It's ok to ask for help.

We might do it directly, or tell you where to look on this forum to find what others did to fix this problem somewhere in the past.

 

So the check engine light has been on for a while.

In a way, that's good. Because the computer knows what's wrong. It talks with the code reader.
Then us humans learn what's on the computers mind.

By the way, you are not the only woman on this forum. One of them has learned a lot about car repairs on her 97 maxima. .

 

Wally mart sells basic code readers for $20 in the auto section.

 

Let us know what your engine codes are.

 

I'm saying to buy a code reader for these reasons:

1. The code reader costs less than a mechanic charges for hooking your car up for an analysis.

They basicly hook up a fancy code reader to your car. Which reads the codes. For about 100 bucks.

I've seen code readers on amazon for 15 bucks. I own one.

2. The code reader can be used again and again over the years. This can save big bucks.

 

Ok guys I got the codes I went an bought the reader

 

P0150- O2 sensor circut bank 1 sensor 1
P0325-knock sensor, sensor 1 or single 1
P0130- O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1
P0141- sensor heater bank 1 sensor 2
P1400- EGRC solenoid/V
P1105- MAP/BARO switch SOL/V

 

So what could it be.. I'm learning here guys

 

Here's a quick description of the codes below.

P0325-knock sensor - This is what we call ghost code that will most likely disappear when the other codes are resolved. This code will not keep the car from starting or running.

O2 Sensor Codes - These codes will not keep the car from starting or running. Replacing old lazy/failing O2 sensors will give your car more pep and help improve MPG.

P0130- O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1
P0141- O2 sensor heater bank 1 sensor 2
P0150- O2 sensor bank 2 sensor 1

P1400- EGRC solenoid/V - Video Below
P1105- MAP/BARO switch SOL/V - Video Below

Have you tried holding the accelerator all the way to the floor while you try to start the engine? Basically, you open the throttle body butterfly valve all the way open while you attempt to start the engine to clear a flooding condition that is caused by too much fuel.

If it turns out that you are experiencing a flooding condition, it is most likely caused by leaking fuel injector o-rings or a leaking fuel pressure regulator.

How many tools do you have and do you have a place to work on the car?

Here's a video on how to test for P1400 - EGRC


P1105- MAP/BARO switch SOL/V

 

CS_AR has or maintains four 95-99 maximas.
He knows his stuff. He is saying that some of the codes might match your current problem, while others need attention soon, but probably do not cause the no start situation.

The fuel injectors on this car have seals which can break down. This can cause way too much gas to get into the cylinders.

Holding the gas pedal all the way down while you crank for a while will cause a lot of air to enter the engine. This will mix with the excess gasoline. Perhaps your car can start. If it does, you still have problems.

If the injectors need work, the bill at a repair shop might be several hundred dollars. Or more.

The other codes can be fixed without too much problem.

CS_AR has asked about your having a place to work on your car. You will be spending hours under the hood. Do you have a place to work in private, like a garage or driveway? You might need to remove the top most portion of the engine to reach the fuel injectors. I'm referring to the upper intake manifold, also known here as the uim.

Do you have access to a socket and wrench set? A torque wrench? Do you have a friend who knows a bit about cars? Are you willing to spend some money to buy the tools you will need? Once you have the tools, they are yours for decades.
Do you have a Harbor Freight store near you?
They have tools of acceptable quality at budget prices. Lowes is good too, I understand.