Hi Guys ... No heat in cabin... I had heat before...although the AC was not working due to a failed solenoid part has not been replace yet. Nissan doesn't make part 9225785e00...so learned to disconnect and reconnect vacuum hose on part to get the air condition working for the summer...However now the heater doesn't work? Is there any connection to this part that controls the heater ... now that its winter time?

Any suggestions appreciated...everything else works on this old car i bought in 1994 (GXE). Thanks in advance!

 

first thing check coolant level

 

The heater core has a water valve on it to either let the hot engine water flow through the heater core or not. This valve is operated by vacuum. The vacuum is controlled by the controls in the dash. On my car, the vacuum hose cracked and I had no vacuum to the water valve. The valve looks like a vacuum diaphragm and is under the hood on the inlet pipe to the heater core. The vacuum hose is a short piece, maybe 3 inches long.

 

I found short piece hard and loose ... replaced it with some vacuum hose from a auto supply store... (about six inches) as the oem piece to the solenoid (27084e) was old and loose. No heat yet ...though the car seems to run better.

 

is it no heat or weak heat? if its weak might be worth undoing the hoses to the heater core and pressure washing it out to see if that helps

 

chrome91...it's no heat. Since changing the short piece of vacuum hose...leads me to think it's either old vacuum hoses ( another long piece that goes from solenoid...along next to the one replaced or the solenoid itself. However if i disconnect and quickly reconnect it ...the extension arm to the comes out of a part that is next to the solenoid...whether that is an indication that the solenoid is still good...?

 

Found a website parts geek.com sells the water valve assembly...for a 94 GXE?
https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...ine+W0133-1616

 

You should be able to open and close it manually I believe but I'd also loosen off the 8mm bleeder screw on the top of the intake manifold and bleed out any air lock that may be there and top up the coolant until all the bubbles are gone and a steady stream of coolant comes out then put the bleeder screw back in place. If your still having an issue then put in a new thermostat too being their pretty inexpensive and it'll give you piece of mind if your not sure the last time it was ever changed?

 

Ok ac max 92...we'll just changed the fail safe thermostat...and see if that works...

 

Got to take the car out of town heat no heat...hope the weather stays warm enough. We'll use the previous suggestion and turn on ac to defrost if needed. Thanks Guys!

 

Hi Starrider, Just curious if you found any resolution on your no heat issue yet?

 

If this problem is still unsolved, I'm gonna say the heater core itself is suspect. These cores have small passages and after 20+ years of use, sludge/mineral deposits/rust etc. can build up and pretty much block off the entire core. My core would cause a gurgling noise inside the cabin due to being 95% blocked. This is also the reason to only use distilled water when refilling the system.
Need to power flush the system with Prestone coolant flush chemicals. Do everything you can to get it crystal clear. Someone more ingenious than I could possible rig up a power flush system directly into the core, but remember, the heater core nipples are made of nylon plastic and they are probably degraded/crystalized/brittled at this point in time, so be careful of that. But the only other option is to replace the heater core!!! This is a $1000 labor job to replace a $40 part. It can be done by someone mechanically inclined and methodical. Search my name to see my extensive write-up of my core replacement adventure.

 

Hi Guys!...still driving one of the best cars maxima ever built.
ac max 92 ...i am still looking for the part... heater solenoid. The car runs great for the most part. It now has about 150k miles on the speedo. Although when first starting a cold engine...i hear what is a soft cylinder knock which disappears after a few minutes. Already went to heavier 20-40 oil wt.

Was looking a the 2018 Accord...however i decided my old 94 GXE was still the best with
with a V6 engine and the conventional transmission.

 

I stuck with the recommended 5w30 year round. I found I had a bit of a knock for a few seconds or so too with my old engine but I found if I shut the car off and started it back up it was gone. You may be o.k with the viscosity your using but I'm not sure if it would gum anything up or seep into everywhere it's supposed to. Bob the oil guy might have an answer for that lol.. Had you needed that part before I got rid of my car I'd have pulled it and shipped it to you. Is there not one at your local yard.

 

Ahh, the old oil viscosity debate. Thought I'd throw my 2 cents in. I have been using 10w40 oil for for so long that I can't remember exactly when. But it has to be before 1980.

My only concerns were starting the car on exceptionally cold winter mornings, that maybe I should have used 5w when the car wouldn't crank over. Now that I live in a warm climate, I wouldn't consider anything less than 10w40, especially on a car that has 100K plus miles (160K) on it.