When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Acquired this 95 granite pearl se about a year ago. So far its got your regular mods for 3.0. Heres some of things Im doing currently. 6 speed swap hlsd with s/c install and sunroof delete coming real soon like tonight lol. Ill be posting alot of "how to do's" and making youtube videos on the mods ive done. So stay tuned my 4th genners!
9
Last edited by lux97Max; Apr 13, 2020 at 04:38 PM.
Why did you delete the sunroof instead of finding one without one? This car have special meaning ? Or did you just wanna rock out some body work?
Thanks man, it didnt work, leaked so it had to go. All my maximas had some meaning but this one is a keeper. Been looking for a 95 gxe no sunroof no abs bull****. But opted for this a year ago with those options, good thing i did cause ive been searching and no other 95 in a 5 speed has popped up. So now that i finished the sunroof delete, im going to delete the abs. Ive dismantle a junkyard 4th gen with and without abs and i can see the difference which is not a whole lot. Heres some pics what i took today. Hopefully the lines that go to the proportion valve if thats the right term for that is the same diameter in brake line, if it is the swap should go very smoothly. Last pic is drive, passnger brake line.
Last edited by lux97Max; Apr 29, 2020 at 01:03 PM.
You're an odd one for sure, any reason why you're deleting ABS?
Lol im sure not alot of people would try to attempt this, yeah why not less weight lol!! for 1. it will free up alot of space in the engine bay when i 6 speed swap. 2. I dont need driver assistance lol. 3. Shaving off weight where i know i can save. And because race car lol. Doing these mods in reality isnt hard and doesnt take a long time. Just gotta look and evaluate, I will most likely finish this in a day. Gotta have technique and the right ***** f*****n tools shunnnnnn lol!!.
Last edited by lux97Max; Apr 29, 2020 at 05:31 PM.
Lol im sure not alot of people would try to attempt this, yeah why not less weight lol!! for 1. it will free up alot of space in the engine bay when i 6 speed swap. 2. I dont need driver assistance lol. 3. Shaving off weight where i know i can save. And because race car lol. Doing these mods in reality isnt hard and doesnt take a long time. Just gotta look and evaluate, I will most likely finish this in a day. Gotta have technique and the right ***** f*****n tools shunnnnnn lol!!.
Hrmm I had a abs and 6mt 4th gen. Nothing a few zip ties didn't fix.
But if you're going for weight savings then get to it! Every lb counts and at the end of the day you may cut off a few hundred lbs!
Heres how i swapped over seats. Saved a good amount of weight possibly 20-25lbs maybe more. Those electric seat rails are no joke heavy. So No more electric seats. Driver and passenger side are push rod lol.
I could live with non electric seats. They are slow.
I wonder how much the early ABS actuator weighs. They look way more combersom than the later units.
Yeah man sliding seats so much better, Idk but it is different i think they changed the abs design in 97+ but its a pretty big block. Got the rear lines today. Wasnt to bad. The rear passenger one was the most difficult. Hopefully the lines to the valve on the firewall are the same diameter. Woukd save alot of time. Not really looking foward switching those lol. Abs delete going down.. 8ft bed truck ftw... l
Yooo wait.... Did you keep the butt toasters? Manual butt toasters? Euro AF! lmaooo
That's pretty spicy.... Giving me ideas
Thats what these post are all about, i dont think they made slide n glide seats for the 6th gen, i do know those seats weigh as much as a couple cinder blocks
Surprisingly enough I only measured a 4lb savings from a driver side cloth power to a manual seat, 44 vs 40.
Butt dyno says different lol, idk my seats weigh nothing extermly light.not 40lbs for sure. More like 15-20lbs they weigh less then a cinder block no joke. How do you guys feel about deleting the egr system. Worth it? This car would basically be emission free lol. Heres when i did Airbag delete.
Butt dyno says different lol, idk my seats weigh nothing extermly light.not 40lbs for sure. More like 15-20lbs they weigh less then a cinder block no joke. How do you guys feel about deleting the egr system. Worth it? This car would basically be emission free lol. Heres when i did Airbag delete.
Tell that to my calibrated scale and the JY seats I weighed.
Looking forward to see what yours weigh in at.
I deleted my EGR long ago during the 00vi swap, I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. Just keep the temp sensor and solenoid plugged in to avoid any codes.
Tell that to my calibrated scale and the JY seats I weighed.
Looking forward to see what yours weigh in at.
I deleted my EGR long ago during the 00vi swap, I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. Just keep the temp sensor and solenoid plugged in to avoid any codes.
Yeah your scale is wrong or you had heavier seats idk my seats are extremely light. I havent weighed the seats yet, but my son weighs 40lbs and hes alot heavier BY ALOT, so thats how i pretty much determined that. So I started taking off the egr parts when it hit me **** i need egr block off plates. Then it hit me that i already had them. So basically im going to cut and weld shut the tube part where it connects to both of the necks and .DONE. and it nice to use the stock hole for the sensor and keep that stock appearance. Do you only need one block off plate or 2 if anyone knows. Ill guess ill once i get there.
EGR eliminated feels good to get rid of that junk. Should of been first mods in my other maximas, such a headache chasing emission codes. Heres some pics, also made a video how to delete it. Ill post a link. So pretty much thats left is to weld up the egr tube neck for the sensor to avoid and lights and only 1 block off plate is needed which goes on the back off the plenum. Getting that rear guide tube to the header i know can be difficult, quick tip** is to cut the pipe close to the nut and put a 24mm socket and crank that sucker out. The nut is thin metal and can strip pretty easy. EMISSION FREE! ABS DELETE is next.
ABS DELETE under way. Ill have to say removing the abs module was a breeze, now theres tons of room! The key is to have the non abs valve and non abs master cylinder and the stock lines together to simplify the swap. Heres a pic. Basically using the stock lines that i took off from the other car to keep things original. Heres a pic off all the junk i deleted. There the EGR block off plug from Nissan for the rear header.
Having the sensors plugged in is half the battle. Unless the 95 ECU is super dumb (which I doubt as it is OBD2), you are going to get a CEL. When the EGR valve opens, the temp sensor warms up telling the ECU the EGR is flowing properly.
I was working on a 99 G20 and could not get rid of the codes by fooling the ECU. I tried some resistors first. Unfortunetly the car was crashed before I really tried to solve it.
I wonder if a 2nd temp sensor mounted into the header plug, wired up via relay activated by the solenoid could fool the ECU.
Well 1 thing is for sure, ill see what happens and ill report back, and if CEL does comes on, i got a few ideas in mind. But dam, That's a really good idea aswelI, fitting it into the header plug the plug is solid that means it would have to be drilled out and tapped. Some machine shop would have to do. But thats a thought. Thanks, but wonder if a little boost will remedy the light if it does come on.
Having the sensors plugged in is half the battle. Unless the 95 ECU is super dumb (which I doubt as it is OBD2), you are going to get a CEL. When the EGR valve opens, the temp sensor warms up telling the ECU the EGR is flowing properly.
I was working on a 99 G20 and could not get rid of the codes by fooling the ECU. I tried some resistors first. Unfortunetly the car was crashed before I really tried to solve it.
I wonder if a 2nd temp sensor mounted into the header plug, wired up via relay activated by the solenoid could fool the ECU.
The 95 ECU really doesn't care. I've had various 95/96 ECUs in my 4th gen. I have my original '97 Temp sensor plugged in and tied around a heater hose, and the '97 solenoid plugged in with no vac lines attached. Never threw a CEL or a pending EGR code.
However the 95/96 ECUs DO care about the rear o2 sensor. I had to repin and install a 95/96 sensor to get rid of that code. And obviously the 95 doesn't monitor/control EVAP.
The 95 ECU really doesn't care. I've had various 95/96 ECUs in my 4th gen. I have my original '97 Temp sensor plugged in and tied around a heater hose, and the '97 solenoid plugged in with no vac lines attached. Never threw a CEL or a pending EGR code.
However the 95/96 ECUs DO care about the rear o2 sensor. I had to repin and install a 95/96 sensor to get rid of that code. And obviously the 95 doesn't monitor/control EVAP.
Do you think the heater hose was warm enough to fool the ECU?
I blocked the EGR tube at the plenum with a gasket with no hole. Instant CEL on my 98. Everything else was in place like stock.
Well its been 200 miles and some since i did the abs delete, egr delete. Did some spirited driving on the highway and doing some casual driving and going well over 100mph. I also performed the system readiness test drive pattern. And NO CEL!!! The green solenoid which i have 1 which is for the egr bpt valve , i basically looped vaccum to it just added a "T" to the lines and connected a line to the throttle which was already there. Heres how i have my sensor just like stock. Will say the car revs up alot better and takes off!! Next mod wheels.
Well its been 200 miles and some since i did the abs delete, egr delete. Did some spirited driving on the highway and doing some casual driving and going well over 100mph. I also performed the system readiness test drive pattern. And NO CEL!!! The green solenoid which i have 1 which is for the egr bpt valve , i basically looped vaccum to it just added a "T" to the lines and connected a line to the throttle which was already there. Heres how i have my sensor just like stock. Will say the car revs up alot better and takes off!! Next mod wheels.
Mind sharing what the readiness test drive pattern is?
Do you think the heater hose was warm enough to fool the ECU?
I blocked the EGR tube at the plenum with a gasket with no hole. Instant CEL on my 98. Everything else was in place like stock.
Doubt it. The wires were tied around my heater hose, sensor is only reading engine bay temps.
Either the newer ECUs are less forgiving, or your sensor was damaged in the process. Here are snippets of the temp sensor function of 96. 95 didnt have the reference data, 98 added consult reference value.
Last edited by schmellyfart; May 10, 2020 at 06:28 PM.
this actually worked for me. My sensor works for sure and is not damaged. You ghetto rigged yours ??? Lol?? Why?? Maybe using 00vi?? I actually made an effort to make it look stock since i could. Despite the reference from the fsm i cant explain how this works but it does. No CEL after 350 miles n counting.
Last edited by lux97Max; May 10, 2020 at 06:47 PM.
the plug is solid that means it would have to be drilled out and tapped. Some machine shop would have to do. But thats a thought. Thanks, but wonder if a little boost will remedy the light if it does come on. 
