Wife was driving home from shopping and the car overheated and lost power "best I can gather from her info". She did verify that the temp was at the "H". So I do know it got hot. We had it towed home and I finally got it in the shop to look at it today. I connected the OBDII up and it had random codes from running lean, O2 sensor type stuff, and did show low coolant pressure or flow, I don't remember now. All codes were cleared. Oil is clean. The engine will turn over but it will not start. I've tried filling up the radiator but the water constantly leaks out. After getting it on the lift I can see water coming from between the motor and a/c compressor. From what I can find on the net, that sounds like a water pump. I'm up for changing out the water pump myself but am curious of the car not starting. I don't want to waste 100 dollars and a day of work if their is something else I'm missing.

Even if the pump is dead and leaking, should the car still crank? I've seen posts of timing issues "after" a water pump change, but never an issue with just a pump going bad.

Thoughts?

Kevin

 

I guess it depends how the pump "failed." If it broke a tooth, then cam timing could be impacted.

I would also do a compression check to see if a head warped or head gasket blew.
I just had my pump changed on my 09 for leaking and had them put on new timing chains, guides, tensioners, front and rear bearing seals, just to head off any potential issues.

As you mentioned, i could have done just the pump myself, but thought a little preventative maint wouldnt hurt so had it all farmed out. I would gladly have liked to do have done it myself, but unfortunately, didnt have the time.

Please let us know what you find.

 

Thanks for the input LT. Already have the water pump cover off so I'll go ahead and attack that anyways. Taking the timing chain tensioner cover off now. I definitely know the pump is leaking so 100 into I am. I'll check compression next weekend. Hopefully with clean oil it isn't that bad but I'll guess I'll have to wait and see.

 

Please keep us posted on how you make out with this. It's not an easy project on these cars.

 

Update:

Got the water pump in yesterday and installed today. Straight forward job, but man, what a pain in the a**! (For anyone reading this on how to get the pump off let me elaborate a little. You do have to take the upper motor mount off to get to the bolts on the timing chain tensioner.
Once the cover is off go ahead and remove the two bolts that is holding the tensioner in place, 10mm bolts. On mine, the chain on the water pump was still very tight. I had to put ratchet on the crank and ever ever so slightly turn the engine crank counter clockwise to move the slack over to the water pump. If you move it an inch or so it is a WORLD of difference. Once you have slack, remove the 3 10mm bolts holding the pump in. You will then need 2 M8 1.25 bolts. Two of the 3 bolts that hold the pump in have threads that except these bolts. Pretty sure it is the top and bottom bolt, not the bolt hole at 9 o'clock. Slowly tighten these bolts and it will push the water pump out. You have to tighten evenly or the pump will bind and you can break the ears off the pump. Once the pump is lose you'll have to wiggle it and hold your mouth just right and it will slide right out. To get the tensioner back in you need a pin. You need to push the plunger all the way in and then stick the pin inside hole on the body of the tensioner. The hole is behind the little flapper thingy on the body of the tensioner. If you are doing this job you will understand. This will hold the plunger in and let you get it tightened and then you pull the pin and the plunger will release. Do no forget to pull it. After that I'll pray for you to get all the bolts back in the tensioner cover. It is tight.

Anyhow, water pump is installed and put everything back together except motor mounts for the fear of what I knew was coming. Filled her up with water and turned her over. Still no start. Pulled the radiator cap and topped off with water just in case and noticed pressure!!!!! Turned it over again and of course still nothing. Went back to the radiator cap and even more pressure this go around. Put the old sniffer a little closer and can easily detect the smell of gas inside the radiator!!

Sad part is I didn't even get to use my new cylinder pressure checker I got from Amazon. So now I'm gonna do some more searching. I guess there is a very slim change it could just be head gaskets but I would obviously think at least one cylinder would TRY to fire but maybe I'm wrong. So now the decision is to start getting to the heads without taking the motor out, (don't know if that is possible for the back head. I guess there is a ever so slightly chance that it is just head gaskets but I'm almost to the point of just throwing down a 1200 on a used engine and go from there. We are already going next week to buy a new car for the wife so this will become a project to hopefully turn into a good work car. I've already changed out the transmission so I feel very comfortable working on the car. It's just so much work to get down to the nitty gritty on these things.
I see engines online used for just over a thousand. Anyone have any suggestions on places with a good reputation to buy engines? I got the tranny at a local parts house and lucked out on it. It has been rock solid.

I'll update through winter or as needed on the progress. Really appreciate you guys responding as quick as you did. Hopefully something here will help someone else down the road.

Kevin

 

Good job Kev, thank you for the step-by-step instructions on this. It will help a lot of other folks dealing with similar issues or water pump replacement. Best of luck to you and do keep us posted on any progress you make. As always, a lot of good people here to assist you so don't hesitate to reach out!