Help with Maxima engines and specs!!
Help with Maxima engines and specs!!
Ok, I know I don't have a Maxima, but I do share your love for them. My brother does as well, and he is shopping for one. I am the resident car guy, however, and I can't remember everything about them. He is looking for a 3rd gen, and I can't remember the engine specs. I thought it was 190 horsepower, but now I'm hearing different. I also know the new engines are the VQ engines, right? So I assume the older ones are VE or VG or something. Could somebody refresh me on all this? Maybe a little Maxima 101
?
Thank you....
Jon
?Thank you....
Jon
Originally posted by ngthing
viscious limited sliip diff
viscious limited sliip diff
Trust me, I know what limited slip is. I cut my teeth on sports cars. I own a V8--which brings me to my next quesion. What the hell is VTC? I keep hearing it...but I can only guess. More help needed
Originally posted by StangJonGT
Trust me, I know what limited slip is. I cut my teeth on sports cars. I own a V8--which brings me to my next quesion. What the hell is VTC? I keep hearing it...but I can only guess. More help needed
Trust me, I know what limited slip is. I cut my teeth on sports cars. I own a V8--which brings me to my next quesion. What the hell is VTC? I keep hearing it...but I can only guess. More help needed
Also make sure you get a 5 spd.
92-94 SE auto = mid 16s stock
92-94 SE 5 spd = low 15s stock. (I ran a 15.0 with only intake and underdrive pulley)
VTCs stand for variable timed cams. (or something like that, but that's exactly what it does). below 3800rpm, there's an electric solenoid on the engine that advances the cam timing about 30 degrees for more low end torque. when you go above 3800, they turn off and drop the timing back to "normal" for high end power. cool idea, but the oil passages to this part of the engine were too small, so once they get filled with gunk (several years of cheap oil and poor maintenance), the VTCs get starved for oil and the springs go bad in them.
symptoms are that it'll sound like a diesel and tick when you first start it up. after a while, they'll just do it all the time.
only way to fix them are to rebuild/replace the VTC sprockets (rebuilt kit costs about $60 per side-you'll need 2- but the rebuild is difficult and doesn't seem to last very long before problems come back.). replacing them is the best option, but they will run you about $500 per side to replace.. parts only. it's a $2000 job by the time you factor labor in.
so your best bet is to just shop around for one that doesn't tick to begin with.. then do a GOOD engine flush as soon as you can and keep a good, clean, lightweight oil in it from then on. change it every 3000 miles, no matter what. $100 and a few hours extra in oil changes each year is a lot cheaper than tearing the engine down.
92-94 SE auto = mid 16s stock
92-94 SE 5 spd = low 15s stock. (I ran a 15.0 with only intake and underdrive pulley)
VTCs stand for variable timed cams. (or something like that, but that's exactly what it does). below 3800rpm, there's an electric solenoid on the engine that advances the cam timing about 30 degrees for more low end torque. when you go above 3800, they turn off and drop the timing back to "normal" for high end power. cool idea, but the oil passages to this part of the engine were too small, so once they get filled with gunk (several years of cheap oil and poor maintenance), the VTCs get starved for oil and the springs go bad in them.
symptoms are that it'll sound like a diesel and tick when you first start it up. after a while, they'll just do it all the time.
only way to fix them are to rebuild/replace the VTC sprockets (rebuilt kit costs about $60 per side-you'll need 2- but the rebuild is difficult and doesn't seem to last very long before problems come back.). replacing them is the best option, but they will run you about $500 per side to replace.. parts only. it's a $2000 job by the time you factor labor in.
so your best bet is to just shop around for one that doesn't tick to begin with.. then do a GOOD engine flush as soon as you can and keep a good, clean, lightweight oil in it from then on. change it every 3000 miles, no matter what. $100 and a few hours extra in oil changes each year is a lot cheaper than tearing the engine down.
Originally posted by Matt93SE
VTCs stand for variable timed cams. (or something like that, but that's exactly what it does). below 3800rpm, there's an electric solenoid on the engine that advances the cam timing about 30 degrees for more low end torque. when you go above 3800, they turn off and drop the timing back to "normal" for high end power. cool idea, but the oil passages to this part of the engine were too small, so once they get filled with gunk (several years of cheap oil and poor maintenance), the VTCs get starved for oil and the springs go bad in them.
VTCs stand for variable timed cams. (or something like that, but that's exactly what it does). below 3800rpm, there's an electric solenoid on the engine that advances the cam timing about 30 degrees for more low end torque. when you go above 3800, they turn off and drop the timing back to "normal" for high end power. cool idea, but the oil passages to this part of the engine were too small, so once they get filled with gunk (several years of cheap oil and poor maintenance), the VTCs get starved for oil and the springs go bad in them.
Originally posted by Badaxxima
Not to rag on you, but advancing the cam timing helps top end breathing. At high RPM the valves can't open quickly enough to fill the cylinders so torque drops off. Advancing the timing opens the valves sooner so they have time to fill the cylinders before the piston reaches BDC. Also, I think it's only 8 or 9 degrees, or that's what it said in MaximaMike's writeup. 30 degrees would create too much overlap with the exhaust cam that doesn't have variable timing and push exhaust gas out the intake runners. Lastly, I've never had a chance to inspect a VTC system up close, but would it be possible to run an oil feed line up and split it between the VTC's to bypass the existing oil gallies?
Not to rag on you, but advancing the cam timing helps top end breathing. At high RPM the valves can't open quickly enough to fill the cylinders so torque drops off. Advancing the timing opens the valves sooner so they have time to fill the cylinders before the piston reaches BDC. Also, I think it's only 8 or 9 degrees, or that's what it said in MaximaMike's writeup. 30 degrees would create too much overlap with the exhaust cam that doesn't have variable timing and push exhaust gas out the intake runners. Lastly, I've never had a chance to inspect a VTC system up close, but would it be possible to run an oil feed line up and split it between the VTC's to bypass the existing oil gallies?
with the VTCs on (low RPM), there's 28 degrees of overlap between intake and exhaust cams... with it off, there's 8 degrees.. so 20 degrees of advancement.. 30,20- what's the diff?

(I've got my FSM right in front of me.. don't tell me I'm wrong this time.)
Re: hey
Originally posted by Telionis
All the SE's have LSDs, or just manuals?
All the SE's have LSDs, or just manuals?
to check if YOUR car has it, go open the hood and look at the engine identification plate in the middle of the firewall. It'll have your tranny code on it too, if your tranny code ends in 'V' then you have VLSD
Ok, I have a confession to make. Its 12am, I just read this and I had to know if my new max had this so I just ran down 2 floors ran outside to the car and popped the hood to check my tranny code...in my boxers...damn the org! 
Oh yeah mine has a "V"

Oh yeah mine has a "V"
Yup
For the record so does mine.
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{Damn it, the "reply to" & "post new thread" buttons are flipped with respect to their positions on 3Si, I've posted at least 5 new one sentance threads in two days...
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_____
{Damn it, the "reply to" & "post new thread" buttons are flipped with respect to their positions on 3Si, I've posted at least 5 new one sentance threads in two days...
)
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