Clutch/tranny maintenance question
Clutch/tranny maintenance question
While the transmission shop has my tranny out of the car for the next few days (I have the now-infamous differential bearing shim problem that causes axle seals to fail), is there anything I can have done to the clutch, the transmission or any other part to extend its life or prevent future damage?
As long as the tranny is out of the car and open, I figure I should do whatever preventative maintenance (or performance-enhancing techniques) I can. I'm NOT getting a new clutch, because the one I have is fine and I can't afford a new one considering the above-mentioned work.
Thanks
As long as the tranny is out of the car and open, I figure I should do whatever preventative maintenance (or performance-enhancing techniques) I can. I'm NOT getting a new clutch, because the one I have is fine and I can't afford a new one considering the above-mentioned work.
Thanks
Re: Clutch/tranny maintenance question
not changing your clutch is not very wise if you have the tranny out, you have a 4 year old car so the clutch is probably at least 1/2 worn out, it would cost you very little compared if you were going to change the clutch to buy a clutch and have them put it in for you. at the least you should replace the clutch plate, that's the part that actually grabs everything, but if I were you I would replace everything in there
Vinipux
Vinipux
Clutch/tranny maintenance question
OK, let's say I COULD afford a new clutch. The only time I can have the car in the shop is this Wednesday to Friday. Where can I get an affordable clutch on such short notice?
Obviously, I haven't really done any homework on the subject, considering I wasn't going to replace it. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks.
Obviously, I haven't really done any homework on the subject, considering I wasn't going to replace it. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
Thanks.
Vinipux is right about replacing the clutch. A new ACT would run you ~345 from Phuong, but you would be saving on the labor (usually 400+) and fluid ~50. Just to wonder how many miles do you have on your car and are you having a dealer do the service? I am about to roll over 51k and I just noticed a small leak near my tranny (which I think isn't the tranny because the fluid wasn't red), a leaky oil pressure switch, and a PS leak
I may try to see if Nissan will cover my bearings (if that is the problem) because I already got my clutch replaced.
Just make sure they shim everything correctly or else you'll end up with the same problem later on down the line.
-hype
I may try to see if Nissan will cover my bearings (if that is the problem) because I already got my clutch replaced. Just make sure they shim everything correctly or else you'll end up with the same problem later on down the line.
-hype
I agree to putting in new clutch. If you can't afford it, credit card it. Or at the very least sign up for new 0% APR credit cards. You'll save $ in the long run, particularly if your clutch is the OEM stocker. If you got busted diff. bearings you probbly already got 60K or so on the clock already.
Lets see-you can also Quaife differential, also cryogenically temper the tranny gears (thats if you race it). You can also get light weight flywheel.
Did you make sure the shop reshims the new bearings/diffy otherwise the problem will happen again?
Lets see-you can also Quaife differential, also cryogenically temper the tranny gears (thats if you race it). You can also get light weight flywheel.
Did you make sure the shop reshims the new bearings/diffy otherwise the problem will happen again?
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I don't know if doing that is such a great idea. It wasn't for me I replaced my clutch when my bearings were worn and it is the biggest piece of **** clutch I have ever seen. Like if you get it hot at all, from just say one full throttle 1-2 shift, it will slip horribly after that. As a matter of fact, I have to take my car in Thursday b/c this "new" clutch is causing my drivetrain to shake when I engage it starting off. And it's a few hundred miles OUT of the warranty, so I'm gonna have to fight the dealer. Cars are so much fun.
Originally posted by MaxedOut97SE
I don't know if doing that is such a great idea. It wasn't for me I replaced my clutch when my bearings were worn and it is the biggest piece of **** clutch I have ever seen. Like if you get it hot at all, from just say one full throttle 1-2 shift, it will slip horribly after that. As a matter of fact, I have to take my car in Thursday b/c this "new" clutch is causing my drivetrain to shake when I engage it starting off. And it's a few hundred miles OUT of the warranty, so I'm gonna have to fight the dealer. Cars are so much fun.
I don't know if doing that is such a great idea. It wasn't for me I replaced my clutch when my bearings were worn and it is the biggest piece of **** clutch I have ever seen. Like if you get it hot at all, from just say one full throttle 1-2 shift, it will slip horribly after that. As a matter of fact, I have to take my car in Thursday b/c this "new" clutch is causing my drivetrain to shake when I engage it starting off. And it's a few hundred miles OUT of the warranty, so I'm gonna have to fight the dealer. Cars are so much fun.
-RMB
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Originally posted by rmb
Sounds like you've got a warped pressure plate/flywheel..... Make 'em fix it. Resurface or replace....
-RMB
Sounds like you've got a warped pressure plate/flywheel..... Make 'em fix it. Resurface or replace....
-RMB
Thanks for the advice, I plan to get my way, but I am a little concerned b/c the warranty is up (though by only 400 miles). Also, would fixing that problem make the clutch grab more? Believe you me it has absolutely awful slippage.
Originally posted by MaxedOut97SE
Thanks for the advice, I plan to get my way, but I am a little concerned b/c the warranty is up (though by only 400 miles). Also, would fixing that problem make the clutch grab more? Believe you me it has absolutely awful slippage.
Thanks for the advice, I plan to get my way, but I am a little concerned b/c the warranty is up (though by only 400 miles). Also, would fixing that problem make the clutch grab more? Believe you me it has absolutely awful slippage.
There's no way to really know what exactly your problem is without taking it apart. That being said, it needs to be taken apart anyway. I surmise it could have been a badly warped pressure plate or flywheel that spot-glazed the clutch material. So all that chattering and slipping from the uneven surfaces made a lot of heat, glazed the clutch material and now doesn't grab for **** and is still if not more warped...
It's common for bad mechanics not to replace the pressure plate or resurface the flywheel... I figure, you're in there, might as well do it.
-good luck
-RMB
"If it's got **** or wheels it will give you trouble"
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Originally posted by rmb
Well, it usually doesn't matter about the warranty anyway since all clutch-related parts aren't typically covered(like brake pads and the like). But if you yell and scream that this is a direct result of their not fixing it right the first time you might get somewhere.
There's no way to really know what exactly your problem is without taking it apart. That being said, it needs to be taken apart anyway. I surmise it could have been a badly warped pressure plate or flywheel that spot-glazed the clutch material. So all that chattering and slipping from the uneven surfaces made a lot of heat, glazed the clutch material and now doesn't grab for **** and is still if not more warped...
It's common for bad mechanics not to replace the pressure plate or resurface the flywheel... I figure, you're in there, might as well do it.
-good luck
-RMB
"If it's got **** or wheels it will give you trouble"
Well, it usually doesn't matter about the warranty anyway since all clutch-related parts aren't typically covered(like brake pads and the like). But if you yell and scream that this is a direct result of their not fixing it right the first time you might get somewhere.
There's no way to really know what exactly your problem is without taking it apart. That being said, it needs to be taken apart anyway. I surmise it could have been a badly warped pressure plate or flywheel that spot-glazed the clutch material. So all that chattering and slipping from the uneven surfaces made a lot of heat, glazed the clutch material and now doesn't grab for **** and is still if not more warped...
It's common for bad mechanics not to replace the pressure plate or resurface the flywheel... I figure, you're in there, might as well do it.
-good luck
-RMB
"If it's got **** or wheels it will give you trouble"
Thanks for the advice. I was talking about the warranty from the work that they did, not the factory warranty. The funny thing is that today after alot of driving, it hasn't done it at all. Cars are so confusing....
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Re: Clutch/tranny maintenance question
Originally posted by Maxwell
While the transmission shop has my tranny out of the car for the next few days (I have the now-infamous differential bearing shim problem that causes axle seals to fail), is there anything I can have done to the clutch, the transmission or any other part to extend its life or prevent future damage?
As long as the tranny is out of the car and open, I figure I should do whatever preventative maintenance (or performance-enhancing techniques) I can. I'm NOT getting a new clutch, because the one I have is fine and I can't afford a new one considering the above-mentioned work.
Thanks
While the transmission shop has my tranny out of the car for the next few days (I have the now-infamous differential bearing shim problem that causes axle seals to fail), is there anything I can have done to the clutch, the transmission or any other part to extend its life or prevent future damage?
As long as the tranny is out of the car and open, I figure I should do whatever preventative maintenance (or performance-enhancing techniques) I can. I'm NOT getting a new clutch, because the one I have is fine and I can't afford a new one considering the above-mentioned work.
Thanks
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