Ever since I got this car, I've noticed that it shakes a lot more at idle than my 97 gxe did. I wrote it off as a combo of things...mods, different year, etc, and didn't think a whole lot of it.

Last night at the track I did 1 run with my street tires, and got more wheel hop than I ever though I could. I used to get a little wheel hop with the 97, but nothing like this.

So what would tell me that a motor mount has gone bad? Can I check it visually?

 

visbility... i dunno..

feel?

have someone in the car. preffebly your woman open the hood.. and have her floor hte car.. if you see alot of movement from the motor.. means the mounts are bad.. also... it will kill the flex section on the y pipe.. you can also have her step on the gas look under hte car by the y pipe and see if it moves considerably

 

To check for bad motor mounts do this. Have someone get in your car, put the car in Drive, apply the brake firmly then give it some gas. The engine shouldn't move. Repeat this with the car in Reverse as well. This checks both front and rear mounts.

If a mount is broken, the engine will look like it's lifting slightly out of the engine bay. You'll see it come up.

 

his car doesn't have drive

 

Hmm, thanks guys. I'll give that a try this weekend.

 

how is hte river?

 

Cool and refreshing.

I just noticed that today...it a new thing around here?

 

is what a busted mount looks like. If that doesnt work, copy and paste http://www.geocities.com/ericdwong/img000006.jpg

Anyway this is how you can tell if the mount is busted or not. Put the car in 2nd or 3rd gear. Let off the throttle and get the car in a roll, then floor the gas very quickly. If the car jolts once and moves then they are alright. However, if theres gyrations and oscillations and aftershocks afterwards then most likely you've got a blown motor mount.

Most likely if you've got a blown motor mount its the lower one in the rear near the cat, which is incidentally the hardest one to see.

 

Cool, great picture, thanks Eric. I'll try your test as well.

 

check your pm

 

Eric -

I've read your homemande...motor mount thread, and am a bit confused. You didn't remove the rubber from the stock mount when doing this, right? You just, "fill the holes"? What holes? I've never taken a motor mount off the car, so I just can't picture it.

Thanks!

 

Look at the motor mount and see if you have any cracks in the rubber that have leaked oil out.

 

No I did not remove the OEM rubber.



Now you can see the holes in the OEM mounts, namely above the mounts. The top 2 mounts (not pictured) have air space all around. The mount on the far right is the busted one. That gooey area on the top is filled with liquid. I slashed this open with a CKRT knife and dumped all the fluid out, then brake cleanered it, and then I filled it with urethane. You can see how the rubber is split and you can take your finger and move all that rubber, so obviously its not holding down the engine any.

 

Cool, thanks. That makes sense now. So the stock motor mount has that gap between the inner and outter rubber to move around? And by filling them you just remove that gap?

Are the ones on the left the PR mounts?

 

Yea...the one's on the left are PR mounts...and those things SUCK....

if you have a busted mount...don't just replace it with another one...I did that...and busted the NEW mount in less than 2 weeks!!!

Do eric's poly project...it's a good compromise betweeen stock and PR mounts.

 

So I have crazy vibrations at high speeds, which get 100% worse when accelerating. At low speeds I only feel a little vibration.

WOuld that be a bad engine mount?

IanS

 

coundnt have said it better myself, also u might feel a slam say ur in 2nd goin about 45 at just partial throttle, hit the gas and see if a slam is felt(this only occurs if the mount, or mounts are totally torn up) btw sprint its possible to do this test on a stick, but i personally woundnt do it too many times due to the frying the clutch issue.