Mine doesnt, is there something else i need to do?

You will have to reset the ECU manually or get a code reader.

My (dumb) question: if disconnecting the Drop Resistor makes for better, more efficient shifting then why didnt Nissan figure this out?

Without the drop resistor, shifting at partial throttle is bad for the tranny and is incredibly hard. The Maxima was designed to shift smoothly.

~THT

Nissan designed the trans they have it figured out.

The line pressure is varied according to throttle opening, RPM etc so that the more power you put down the more pressure is produced so that theoretically the shift time remains the same.

The more HP you put out the slower the trans will shift if you don't increase the line pressure, so they have designed it to be suitable for 95% of the driving public.

What I am trying to do is have maximum line pressure at WOT ONLY, I like the way it shifts under normal operation, thats why I don't have a VB mod. Maximum line pressure gives the fastest shift possible and saves the clutches from burning unecessarily. However I don't want maximum line pressure at part throttle as the shifts are very jerky because the engine is only putting out very little HP.

The stock design does not put out maximum line pressure at WOT and the Drop Resistor Mod does.

This may be a g a y question, but is this very beneficial for a 5spd manual or auto only?

Sorry, you don't have one on a 5 spd.

The only thing you have is the speed of your hand to make it shift quicker.

So then the idea would be to leave it connected most times but, disconnect it at the track for the best WOT shifts.

Okay, Thanks.
That is what I was thinking, but I wanted to ask to make sure.
I am still learning too.

Exactly, thats why mine is wired to a WOT switch.

It works very well, too! Before I did this little "mod", I could not get into the 14.6's..most times not even 14.7's (stock). As soon as I disconnected the sensor, I ran a 14.66 at 92.x MPH in the 1/4. Ever since then, I have managed to pull off numerous 14.6x's. There's no doubt in my mind that it works...

http://www.radioshack.com/category.a...5%5F005&Page=1

Same deal for 3rd gen VE's?

The second time I started my car with this mod, the CEL came on and my OD light flashed at me (didn't count it though). Did anyone elses OD light flash at them?

~THT

Yes thats normal.

I just put it in last night and was WOT every chance I got all the way home. :thumbsup: Although I didn't have a CEL, I did have the OD light blink a few times this morning.

Jime: What does the OD light mean? I know it's probably nothing to worry about, but just for curiosity's sake. TIA

Its just giving you an error code because it knows the line pressure is too high. That transmission error code comes through the OD light not the CEL.

I now get a CEL coming on when I go WOT more than once. It's a 1205.
Line Pressure Solenoid Valve (Automatic Transmission)

I'm assuming that's the DR mod doing it's thing. Does it affect how your engine runs if CEL is on? Does it go into a safe mode where you run rich, etc?

so im planning on doing this mod this afternoon if i can get ahole of a switch and was wondering a couple things.... do you splice the switch into the w/b wires or what?

and does it matter that i don't have a tranny cooler?

NVM got it installed and working great

only got a CEL light and the OD light flashes 16 times.

Does that part # from Radio Shack refer to the N/C version?

bump :)

12456789

Yes it will work. If it has 3 connectors on it, it will work. One is common, one is N/C and one is N/O so it can be used as either. Just make sure you hook it up to the N/C and common.

if you have a stage 2 Valve body would the drop resistor mod help it out more?

I wouldn't do both. Counterproductive after spending a whole bunch of money on the VB Mod.

My preference is the DR Mod because:

1. Its free.
2. It works. Full line pressure is full line pressure
3. It is only there at WOT and I like the way the auto shifts under part throttle fine.
4. I do it because I believe it saves the trans vs getting faster et's. To me its like running race fuel, I do it because it give more of a safety margin on detonation rather than hoping it gives me more power.

I too have mine on a switch ... Blew my trany only after having mine disconected all the time for 25K miles... Now I have it on a switch

I'm thinking about doing this too....so all you guys just live with the CEL and OD lights flashing at you? Or do they only come on when you go WOT, and if you drive normally for a while the lights go away?

bump, cuz im doing this tomorrow....

mod complete thanks to sonicdust187, i feel the dif...

http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...uct_id=275-016


http://www.radioshack.com/images/Pro...75/275-016.jpg

$2.95

thats the wot switch i used.....

bent a bracket up, mounted the switch on the bracket so the switch activated with throttlebody wide open....

Jime, can you please re-link the pictures in your write-up? I'd like to give this mod a try but the pics aren't showing. Thanks so much for all the help you have contributed!

- Josh

Sorry didn't realize they were gone.

Jim

ptatohed, let us know how it goes, the mod literally took like 15-20 minutes to do and u feel it immediately at WOT....although i went wit vb mod now, but memories :) if u need any help im here, because ure SC write up was beautiful, it helped a few of my friends out...

:o)
 

I will let you know for sure TJ. :) I PMed Jime a huge list of questions, he was kind enough to answer them all. Thanks Jime. I will certainly be doing the Drop Resistor Bypass Mod but I have a lot of things on my plate. My SC is fully out of my '96 so I will be intsalling it on my '99 probably starting this week. I also just ordered a new transmission filter so I want to change the filter, fluid and add a cooler (just bought a Hayden 403). I will do the DR mod shortly after that. I've been thinking about it and I think I want an in-cabin toggle switch for a WOT switch, does that make sense? So, yes, I probably will need your help, thanks for the offer. :) Thanks for the compliment on the write-up, so glad I could help others, that's why I wrote it. Talk to you soon.
- Josh

yeah that makes sense, its like having nitrous spray at wot, u can also have a happy button, same as dr mod....u can use it at wot, or control it manually with a DR "happy button", put a funny label on it like, "speed shift button" lol...good luck, i agree wit TJ_Max, great write up...

so basically you can either disconnect it or cut one of the 2 wires that goes to the sensor and connect it to a wot switch?

I always thought you had to take the sensor apart.

It not a sensor its just a resistor. One wire in and one wire out.

so basically cut one of the wires going to it and rewire it to a wot switch and that's it?

Thats it. There is a small schematic on my website.

http://jime.homeip.net/DR%20Mod.html

how will this affect launch? or will it only (maybe) give a chirp going 1->2?

also, with the increased speed of the shift and whatnot, would a tranny cooler be advisable or is it unneeded?(dont wanna turn my tranny into a BBQ)