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Going on the bottle, a few questions.
Read this in the stickies:
"Zex makes an electronic tps sensing switch that works with our dropping voltage tps. Simply wire it in, push a button, watch the lights, floor the car, watch the lights again, and the voltage curve is learned, no more ghetto wot micro-switch!" Is this option THAT much nicer to have compared to...say a NX kit? What do i have to do differently on the NX kits? Also, i plan on running a 75 shot. I have my eyes set on a used NX kit right now, but im wondering what all i should do before i install/spray. I have heard of people retarding the timing, is this necesary? Im assuming 2step colder plugs are a must, as well as an upgraded fuel pump and adding a FPR. Also is it recomended i get a wideband A/F gauge to cut off nitrous incase i were to lean out? Money is not really an issue as i want to get everything i can as a preventative measure. Any thoughts or opinions are greatly appreciated... |
Step 1 colder plugs are about it for a 75 shot. And there's nothing wrong with micro-switches. :D
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Originally Posted by 2002AltimateV6
Step 1 colder plugs are about it for a 75 shot. And there's nothing wrong with micro-switches. :D
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http://www.allproducts.com/ee/shelec...cro_switch.jpg
Pretty basic. Usually for nitrous, you'd use normally-closed micro-switches, which means the signal (power) is interrupted within the switch, and once the trigger is pressed, it will allow power to move along to wherever you have it wired, in this case.. to the solenoids. If you're running a throttle-by-cable setup, you'd put this up against the http://marylandturbosolutions.com/ca...rx_PTB_320.jpg right side of the throttle body (in the example, might be different for the VQ30 throttle body, or VQ35 4th gen) with the throttle linkage. Most micro-switches come with a mount or something, so you'd be able to put it in a place to where the throttle would touch the switch and activate the solenoids at wide-open-throttle. In the case of drive-by-wire, the most favored placement of the micro-switch would be at the gas pedal, since the throttle is controled electronically. BASICALLY: http://www.stegen.com/images/arcade_button_blue.jpg It's a button your throttle presses to activate nitrous. I'm not a master or pro at nitrous, just a guy that has had his fair share of useage, so.. if I've left something out and someone else notices, please correct me! |
Pretty basic. Usually for nitrous, you'd use normally-closed micro-switches, which means the signal (power) is interrupted within the switch, and once the trigger is pressed, it will allow power to move along to wherever you have it wired, in this case.. to the solenoids. If you're running a throttle-by-cable setup, you'd put this up against the right side of the throttle body (in the example, might be different for the VQ30 throttle body, or VQ35 4th gen) with the throttle linkage. Most micro-switches come with a mount or something, so you'd be able to put it in a place to where the throttle would touch the switch and activate the solenoids at wide-open-throttle. In the case of drive-by-wire, the most favored placement of the micro-switch would be at the gas pedal, since the throttle is controled electronically. BASICALLY: It's a button your throttle presses to activate nitrous. I'm not a master or pro at nitrous, just a guy that has had his fair share of useage, so.. if I've left something out and someone else notices, please correct me! When you go WOT, the microswitch closes the circuit, which allows other things to happen - at least, that's how mine is wired.... Nice photos - BIG blue button there... |
Originally Posted by grey99max
That's a nice summary of microswitch use w/nitrous, but didn't you mean "normally-open" instead of "normally-closed"? :reading:
When you go WOT, the microswitch closes the circuit, which allows other things to happen - at least, that's how mine is wired.... Nice photos - BIG blue button there... Oh well, atleast my "basic" explanation of it was enough. :D |
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