some new toys for my nitrous kit
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
some new toys for my nitrous kit
I've got a zex dry kit on my car and I didnt really like the results from a dry 65 shot so I bought some stuff to convert it to wet along with a few other things.
msd window switch with 3000 and 6500 pills $65.00
zex tank pressure gauge $35.00
walbro intank fuel pump 255 hp $85.00
fuel pressure safty switch $57.95
dry to wet conversion kit $167.34
fuel solenoid $41.95
zex bottle heater $94.05
dual purge kit $81.95
all I need to get now is a msd sport compact sci digital box
nitrous and fuel jets
ngk bkr-beix-11
aem wideband 30-4100
300zx maf
300zx injectors
and I need to install the apexi vafc-II and tune it with the n20
msd window switch with 3000 and 6500 pills $65.00
zex tank pressure gauge $35.00
walbro intank fuel pump 255 hp $85.00
fuel pressure safty switch $57.95
dry to wet conversion kit $167.34
fuel solenoid $41.95
zex bottle heater $94.05
dual purge kit $81.95
all I need to get now is a msd sport compact sci digital box
nitrous and fuel jets
ngk bkr-beix-11
aem wideband 30-4100
300zx maf
300zx injectors
and I need to install the apexi vafc-II and tune it with the n20
#2
Originally Posted by absoundlab
I've got a zex dry kit on my car and I didnt really like the results from a dry 65 shot so I bought some stuff to convert it to wet along with a few other things.
msd window switch with 3000 and 6500 pills $65.00
zex tank pressure gauge $35.00
walbro intank fuel pump 255 hp $85.00
fuel pressure safty switch $57.95
dry to wet conversion kit $167.34
fuel solenoid $41.95
zex bottle heater $94.05
dual purge kit $81.95
all I need to get now is a msd sport compact sci digital box
snow performance aquamist
nitrous and fuel jets
ngk bkr-beix-11
aem wideband 30-4100
300zx maf
300zx injectors
and I need to install the apexi vafc-II and tune it with the n20
msd window switch with 3000 and 6500 pills $65.00
zex tank pressure gauge $35.00
walbro intank fuel pump 255 hp $85.00
fuel pressure safty switch $57.95
dry to wet conversion kit $167.34
fuel solenoid $41.95
zex bottle heater $94.05
dual purge kit $81.95
all I need to get now is a msd sport compact sci digital box
snow performance aquamist
nitrous and fuel jets
ngk bkr-beix-11
aem wideband 30-4100
300zx maf
300zx injectors
and I need to install the apexi vafc-II and tune it with the n20
A wet-kit nitrous setup supplies the equivalent of air and fuel with the jets. You will be sucking more gas through the nitrous system, so be sure your fuel filter is fresh - or use one from a 300ZXTT - and fuel pump needs to be good. Your fuel cutoff switch is good, too.
I run with stock injectors and ECU, and seem to do OK. But I use race gas and shaved-ground plugs at the track with 150-shot....
#4
Originally Posted by absoundlab
do you have any info for me on shaving the grounds on the plugs?
I cant use a 300zxtt fuel filter on my car.
Also where did you get your fuel pressure reg from?
I cant use a 300zxtt fuel filter on my car.
Also where did you get your fuel pressure reg from?
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...3/Dscn1407.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...3/Dscn1166.jpg
The FPR was purchased from Jegs, I think. It's in the catalog, anyway...
An old picture with the FPR in the upper right....
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...3/Dscn0922.jpg
...
#9
Originally Posted by absoundlab
no I just want to get everything I need to do it right I dont want to be like other people that go out and buy a zex dry kit and throw it on there car without doing anything else
If you're going beyond a single 75-shot, then my list of mods pretty well sums it up. Use two stages beyond 75-shot, if you want to be compe***ive. If you are keeping it on the street, you're on your own... I don't do that. (except for on-ramps for private Test-n-Tune).
#11
I'm positive I'm going to go nitrous too, but after I do some engine/ transmission mods first.
I'm going with at the NX# 20923-10 Stage 1 Import EFI Wet Kit with the Gen-X which includes: Bottle Heater, Pressure Gauge, EFI Fuel Press, Safety Switch, Blow-down tube, and NHRA pipe away fitting.
Also need to pick up a Remote Bottle Opener, Dual Purge Plumbing Kit(just for show), new fuel pump, one-step colder plugs.
I already have a VAFCII tune with the mods I currently have, so I just need to take it in to have it tune for nitrous. I'm going to start with probably 50shot since I have not driven a car with nitrous before, I will start low and work up to 75shots.
I'm going with at the NX# 20923-10 Stage 1 Import EFI Wet Kit with the Gen-X which includes: Bottle Heater, Pressure Gauge, EFI Fuel Press, Safety Switch, Blow-down tube, and NHRA pipe away fitting.
Also need to pick up a Remote Bottle Opener, Dual Purge Plumbing Kit(just for show), new fuel pump, one-step colder plugs.
I already have a VAFCII tune with the mods I currently have, so I just need to take it in to have it tune for nitrous. I'm going to start with probably 50shot since I have not driven a car with nitrous before, I will start low and work up to 75shots.
#12
Originally Posted by Utsutsu
I'm positive I'm going to go nitrous too, but after I do some engine/ transmission mods first.
I'm going with at the NX# 20923-10 Stage 1 Import EFI Wet Kit with the Gen-X which includes: Bottle Heater, Pressure Gauge, EFI Fuel Press, Safety Switch, Blow-down tube, and NHRA pipe away fitting.
Also need to pick up a Remote Bottle Opener, Dual Purge Plumbing Kit(just for show), new fuel pump, one-step colder plugs.
I already have a VAFCII tune with the mods I currently have, so I just need to take it in to have it tune for nitrous. I'm going to start with probably 50shot since I have not driven a car with nitrous before, I will start low and work up to 75shots.
I'm going with at the NX# 20923-10 Stage 1 Import EFI Wet Kit with the Gen-X which includes: Bottle Heater, Pressure Gauge, EFI Fuel Press, Safety Switch, Blow-down tube, and NHRA pipe away fitting.
Also need to pick up a Remote Bottle Opener, Dual Purge Plumbing Kit(just for show), new fuel pump, one-step colder plugs.
I already have a VAFCII tune with the mods I currently have, so I just need to take it in to have it tune for nitrous. I'm going to start with probably 50shot since I have not driven a car with nitrous before, I will start low and work up to 75shots.
Once you get over the shock, you'll head for the 75-shot. Man, I'd like to see that car run at a track....
Be careful with the tune - you do NOT want any ignition advance !!
#13
Originally Posted by grey99max
A 2002 with Cattman headers and spray? Better add some wide sticky tires to that combination.... You must be heading for the street with the bottle opener. ??
Once you get over the shock, you'll head for the 75-shot. Man, I'd like to see that car run at a track....
Be careful with the tune - you do NOT want any ignition advance !!
Once you get over the shock, you'll head for the 75-shot. Man, I'd like to see that car run at a track....
Be careful with the tune - you do NOT want any ignition advance !!
#15
Originally Posted by grey99max
Got some history you'd like to share ??
I have sprayed well into the higher rpms in 2nd and 3rd and 1/2 of the time I dont hook But when I do
#16
Originally Posted by vq356sp
I was talking about the traction issue with spray on a 3.5 with full bolt ons........
I have sprayed well into the higher rpms in 2nd and 3rd and 1/2 of the time I dont hook But when I do
I have sprayed well into the higher rpms in 2nd and 3rd and 1/2 of the time I dont hook But when I do
#20
Originally Posted by absoundlab
yup two bottles one on each side I'm also going to setup a dual stage 150 shot
Don't short yourself here - use a NX 6AN line - the new "race hose" they sell today. It's like blowing through a garden hose. I've got mine installed, and there was a drastic improvement in power with a 75-shot - with both stages pushing a combined 150-shot on the highway, the car was a rocket. Even the purge plume was several times larger.
I found my car was running too rich w/75-shot, and at 150-shot, it was 10/1 AFR or less, all because the nitrous hose was too small. I got adapters for both ends, and have a true 6AN pipeline from the bottle to the engine, with a 6AN to 4AN "Y" connector for the solenoids. Also be careful of the lines from the solenoids to the spray nozzle. They should be 4AN to 3AN hoses (NOT 3AN-3AN), with a 4AN adapter at all solenoids. The nozzles have 3AN connectors at the jets, but all metering should be done by the jets, NOT the hoses. I'm upgrading all of mine that way. Crappy small hoses. Take a close look at what you have - blow thru all of them - then blow through a garden hose - that's the difference you need to run TRUE hi-number shots. 150-shot jets don't mean squat, not with pinhole hoses.
Sorry, I got excited - I've been upgrading my plumbing, and have all the stuff for a third stage here. Just need warmer weather to install.
#21
Your ****ing NUTZ!!! your going to be putting out more than 420 hp on the bottle!!!!!!!!!!!
I would love to see the numbers once this car runs the 1/4 mile!
Btw where the hell u get all this money?!?!?
lol keep us posted.
Alex
I would love to see the numbers once this car runs the 1/4 mile!
Btw where the hell u get all this money?!?!?
lol keep us posted.
Alex
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by grey99max
Pay close attention to the lines from your trunk up to the engine. I assume youre planning on two ?? (don't do it) If you blow into one of them - I bet nothing happens - a 14-foot 4AN line is too small to provide enough gas for a true 75-shot, let alone anything more. You just need one bottle at a time - but make it a 15lb or 20lb bottle.
Don't short yourself here - use a NX 6AN line - the new "race hose" they sell today. It's like blowing through a garden hose. I've got mine installed, and there was a drastic improvement in power with a 75-shot - with both stages pushing a combined 150-shot on the highway, the car was a rocket. Even the purge plume was several times larger.
I found my car was running too rich w/75-shot, and at 150-shot, it was 10/1 AFR or less, all because the nitrous hose was too small. I got adapters for both ends, and have a true 6AN pipeline from the bottle to the engine, with a 6AN to 4AN "Y" connector for the solenoids. Also be careful of the lines from the solenoids to the spray nozzle. They should be 4AN to 3AN hoses (NOT 3AN-3AN), with a 4AN adapter at all solenoids. The nozzles have 3AN connectors at the jets, but all metering should be done by the jets, NOT the hoses. I'm upgrading all of mine that way. Crappy small hoses. Take a close look at what you have - blow thru all of them - then blow through a garden hose - that's the difference you need to run TRUE hi-number shots. 150-shot jets don't mean squat, not with pinhole hoses.
Sorry, I got excited - I've been upgrading my plumbing, and have all the stuff for a third stage here. Just need warmer weather to install.
Don't short yourself here - use a NX 6AN line - the new "race hose" they sell today. It's like blowing through a garden hose. I've got mine installed, and there was a drastic improvement in power with a 75-shot - with both stages pushing a combined 150-shot on the highway, the car was a rocket. Even the purge plume was several times larger.
I found my car was running too rich w/75-shot, and at 150-shot, it was 10/1 AFR or less, all because the nitrous hose was too small. I got adapters for both ends, and have a true 6AN pipeline from the bottle to the engine, with a 6AN to 4AN "Y" connector for the solenoids. Also be careful of the lines from the solenoids to the spray nozzle. They should be 4AN to 3AN hoses (NOT 3AN-3AN), with a 4AN adapter at all solenoids. The nozzles have 3AN connectors at the jets, but all metering should be done by the jets, NOT the hoses. I'm upgrading all of mine that way. Crappy small hoses. Take a close look at what you have - blow thru all of them - then blow through a garden hose - that's the difference you need to run TRUE hi-number shots. 150-shot jets don't mean squat, not with pinhole hoses.
Sorry, I got excited - I've been upgrading my plumbing, and have all the stuff for a third stage here. Just need warmer weather to install.
wow I can learn alot from you thank you for all the help I will be sending you a message soon to try and figure out how to convert everything to 6an
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Maximahappy22
Your ****ing NUTZ!!! your going to be putting out more than 420 hp on the bottle!!!!!!!!!!!
I would love to see the numbers once this car runs the 1/4 mile!
Btw where the hell u get all this money?!?!?
lol keep us posted.
Alex
I would love to see the numbers once this car runs the 1/4 mile!
Btw where the hell u get all this money?!?!?
lol keep us posted.
Alex
#24
Originally Posted by absoundlab
are you talkin to me or the other guy?
But you should be putting out about 375 hp or so on nitrous... rite?
#26
I really think you should either return the water injection or sell it. Because its kinda useless for nitrous. Also you dont really need the 370 injectors (z32), because the wet kit supplies its own fuel by tapping into the fuel line.
#29
Originally Posted by absoundlab
wow I can learn alot from you thank you for all the help I will be sending you a message soon to try and figure out how to convert everything to 6an
Everything I posted is about things I have experienced and hopefully fixed. Don't take my word - but read what I have posted so you know where the danger points are. How you blown through a 14 ft 4AN hose yet?
Share what you find, as well. I sure don't have all the answers. Intelligent racers learn from each other.
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Utsutsu
That's some great toys. What made you get the Zex kit instead of the other brands?
#33
Originally Posted by absoundlab
a wet kit is better than a dry kitbecause the wet kit increases fuel where as the dry kit doesn't do much in adding any fuel. I had a dry zex kit. and the only company that had a conversion kit is nos and nx
You can find everything you need for bits and pieces on eBay. Solenoids, lines, nozzles, adapters, pressure switches, bottles, gauges, etc..... Plus you get to look at the pictures.
Heck, I just bought another eBay Q45 90mm TB for $66.00. The first one is gonna be the 3" exhaust cutout for the headers, and the second one..... I can't say unless it works... Man, that TB is HUGE!
#34
Originally Posted by absoundlab
a wet kit is better than a dry kitbecause the wet kit increases fuel where as the dry kit doesn't do much in adding any fuel. I had a dry zex kit. and the only company that had a conversion kit is nos and nx
just because there's more than 1 way does not make the other wrong
#35
Originally Posted by t6378tp
a wet kit is not really better it just depends on your needs. wet kit taps into your fuel line and adds fuel that way and a dry kit fools the fpr and makes the injectors spray more fuel and you can play with the fuel jets on a dry kit also for a better dyno tune and as for a conversion kit just build your own there's nothing to it
just because there's more than 1 way does not make the other wrong
just because there's more than 1 way does not make the other wrong
13s , huh? Here's how... Wet, all the way.....
Pipeline:
spray X2
some fuel:
#36
damn it looks like a/c lines, I know wet is better but for small shot dry is just fine less parts equals less things to go wrong
and as for 13's yep soon as the tracks opens and the snow clears, got to get back on the 1st page of the timeslip database
and as for 13's yep soon as the tracks opens and the snow clears, got to get back on the 1st page of the timeslip database
#39
I still dont recommend you use water/alcohol injection with the nitrous. its just going to complicate things and its not really needed. guys that have been spraying 100+ have never used it and havnt had problem (grey99, jime, etc..). and if you did use it, you will have to re-tune with the water/alk injection. Alcohol will function as extra fuel I believe and therefore richen out the mixture even more (or leaner, not sure but i kno u have to tune for it).
Also, if you use meth injection, Meth has a different Stoich point so it will skew the a/f scale if you're wideband is setup to read gasoline ( if u have wideband or w/e ur tuner will use) most widebands have settings to change from gasoline to meth, etc.... I hold the kit for when u go boost if u ever do. dont use it with nitrous
Also, if you use meth injection, Meth has a different Stoich point so it will skew the a/f scale if you're wideband is setup to read gasoline ( if u have wideband or w/e ur tuner will use) most widebands have settings to change from gasoline to meth, etc.... I hold the kit for when u go boost if u ever do. dont use it with nitrous