That was your 2000th post!

Great info in that, going to try it that way.

 

...ahhh! The lightbulb over my head finally got some juice.

To avoid fubaring things, you must let the car use the servo motor for the throttle valve, "key on, throttle open".

I just LOVE a sudden flash of clarity!

 

Mine is CLEANED!!

 

I cleaned my throttle body when I installed my intake spacers. I purchased carb and throttle body cleaner at AutoZone.

I took the throttle body off and sprayed the fluid onto a rag and wiped it off. Then i moved the butterfly valve with my hand , and cleaned the area where it sits, it was filthy.

Upon starting my car for the first time, I got the infamous check engine code and surging idle from 1100 rpm to 1600 rpm. I figured that I just needed to an air idle relearn, but I wasn't that lucky.

I tried the gas pedal procedure many times and I did it correctly each time, with no luck.

I talked to one of my friends who is a tech at the Nissan dealer, and he tried to do an air idle relearn using the Consult II, and it still wouldnt take.

By this time I was getting desperate. I figured that I would have to buy a new throttly body.

I decided to try something that I saw on another website and it worked.

I started the car and drove it around until operating temperature, then parked on my driveway. I unplugged all 3 of the front fuel injectors to force the idle lower. A check engine light obviously came on, so I shut the engine off and did the ecu reset procedure. With the engine still off, I did the air idle relearn procedure. It is important that you do not turn the engine on before doing the idle relearn because it will throw a CEL due to the unplugged injectors, and the idle relearn will fail. Well wadda ya know, the idle is right at 6-- rpm.
It took the relearn.

I hooked up the 3 injectors again and did another relearn just incase, and it took fine.

So anyone who is having problems doing an air idle relearn, please try disconnecting 2 or 3 of the injectors and try the relearn again before you let the dealer rape you on the price of a new throttle body.

 

Interesting.
I've done the relearn more times than I can remember, disconnected the battery for 48hrs, done the hokey pokey pedal dance......

It's settle to a nice 650-700 ish idle...until I shut if off and restart it. Right back to ~1000. Phooey.

Didn't someone try yanking the MAF sensor to accomplish the same thing?
I'd be concerned about trashing the cats by unplugging the injectors.

 

Yea mine was doing something similar.

It would idle at around 800rpm, but as soon as I pushed the clutch in to shift out of first gear, the rpm's would not settle below 1600. Also, as soon as I went to restart the car again, it would go right back to surging idle.

I think the problem is due to the fact that the idle relearn doesn't successfully complete due to the idle being above a certain threshold. If it is too far out of spec, it seems that it wont allow it to complete. There seems to be a TSB about this. It specifically states that for 2002/2003 models, there is an ECU upgrade that corrects this issue, but that wasn't necessary for me, as I did the injector "trick".

Also, I'm pretty sure that there is no danger to the cats by disconnecting the injectors.

Disconnecting the coils however, is another story.

Disconnecting the coils still allows fuel to go into the cylinder, but it doesn't get burned, so it drips down into your cats where it burns and causes damage.

Disconnecting the injectors prevents fuel from going into the cylinder and passing down into the cat. It basically disables that cylinder.

 

lol...and I KNOW that, too...not sure why my brain didn't connect the dots.

There is a curious line in the FSM procedure for idle relearn infering that the idle speed won't be taught unless the idle speed is correct.

Which strikes me as odd, BWE.

I'll try the injector trick and see what happens.

How long did you let it idle at its artificially lowered speed?

 

My experience with cleaning the throttle body...

I followed Nissan's instruction for cleaning it, and used Carberator cleaner, cleaned it immaculately. But after I was done, the car idled worse than it ever did.
No CEL, hooked up an OBDII code reader anyways, and ran the erase feature. But that was no help.

Had no choice but to take it to the dealer
They told me the problem was caused by an outdated Mass Air flow sensor. $500 later, had a new sensor, and car was running smoothly.

Makes me wonder what would have happened had I reset the ECU?
Is there a write-up on how to reset the ECU manually? Like the old OBD screw driver twist...etc?

 

I believe I cleaned mine 2 years at the dealership at about 50,000 miles.

I've had no issues.. I recommend it, I remember the car did breathe better..

 

Well, I unplugged the injectors with the engine running, but a CEL came up, so I shut off the car and I cleared the ecu by doing the gas pedal reset procedure, then I did the gas pedal air idle relearn procedure, then I started the car.

I tried disconnecting 2 injectors at first, but the idle was still too high so I had to disconnect 3. The car was a little hard to start but it should start up without problems.

Hope it works for you

 

Yeah, according to a TSB, there are a few models that require a new MAF sensor, but I wouldn't be suprised if the dealer just sold you the MAF even though it wasn't required. It could have just corrected itself when they did the ecu reset/relearn when they installed the MAF, as that is part of the procedure.

 

Nope, not working for me. Hmm.

I HAVE noticed that the throttle plate isn't fully closed @ ignition off, though. I can poke my finger at the TOP [editted] edge and it'll move slightly to "fully closed".



Unless that's normal, of course!

I don't have the time nor inclination to take this car to a dealership. It WILL be fixed under my hands. Somehow.

 

What is your problem exactly?

Does the idle fix itself after the relearn but go back to the surging idle after a restart?

Or is the relearn not doing anything at all?

 

The relearn works....until the car is shut off and restarted. Then we're back to 1000-1100 hot idle speed, and all functions, like cold start RPMs, are raised as well.

Should my throttle plate be slightly open like that with ignition off? I'd love to know if that is normal or not, before I buy a rebuilt throttle body.

So you did:
Engine warmed up and running
Disable front three injectors to lower idle
Engine off
Clear codes
Idle relearn
Enable injectors
Start engine.
Win.

Correct?

 

Yeah that's pretty much it.

1. Started the car and drove around until operating temperature.

2. Unplugged the front 3 injectors with the engine still running, the car sputtered and the idle dropped to around 800rpm.

3. CEL came on, so I shut the car off and cleared the code with the ecu reset procedure.

4. Did the air idle relearn procedure. (Never started the car after the ecu reset)

5. Started the car.

6. Idle bounced around for a little bit and settled down to around 600 (car was sputtering)

7. Plugged injectors back in. ( car stopped sputtering and the idle remained at 600)

8. Shut car off and did relearn again and restarted the car.

9. Profit.

Something that you may want to try would be plugging the injectors back in with the car off instead of it running like I did. Then restart and see if the idle goes back up.

And my throttle body is a little open and able to be pushed shut when it is plugged into the harness and the car is on, but I'm pretty sure that when the throttle body is completely removed from the car it should spring all the way closed.

I am almost positive that your throttle body is fine. If it still moves and you are able to rev the engine than it must be working. The problem is clearly due to the dirt being removed causing more than normal air flow at idle, and it possible could have thrown off the TPS sensor, but the calibration procedures are there to put everything back in line.

Did you do the Accelerator Released Position Learning and the Throttle Valve Closed Position Learn procedure before you did the idle relearn? (In between the ecu reset and the idle relearn, steps 3 and 4?)

 

Oh yes. All procedures done everytime I've tried the idle relearn.

I'll try again tomorrow.

 

Just for future reference, I tried this method above and it doesn't work. The throttle body will not open itself with the pedal to the floor and key ON, unless the engine is started and the pedal is depressed. So I ended up disconnecting the battery, (maf was already disconnected) TB connector, removing the airbox, and manually cleaning the TB. I was having an idling problem, the car would die once warmed up when going from higher gear to neutral, cleaning the TB fixed this. I did have a code afterwards, being P0113 Intake air temp circuit high input, but I erased it and it seems to be good so far.
Hope it helps someone in the future.
I have a 2003 6 speed SE.

 

i had my friend at the nissan dealership clean out my engine and wash off the engine and my car performs very well now i must say when i even start the car it sounds just like an infiniti i was shocked i was even driving home yesterday and a bmw tried to give me a lil run i was matching his moves and got to point where i just gunned it and was gone I WOULD SAY DO THIS IT GIVES YOUR POWER BACK add SEAFOAM AS WELL!!!!!

 

I am ho posted this writeup a while ago. You missed "Put transmission on any gear". (Means, not neutral).
Regards, Boris

 

My bad, I'll know for next time.
Thanks for the post, it still solved my problem.

 

My 2002 SE throttle body was cleaned by an oil change shop some years ago. I did get the P0507 code (Idle speed control system RPM higher than expected). The shop tried dozens of times to erase the DTC from the ECM but it always returned. They tried yanking off the negative battery cable, code still returned.

I bought myself a cheapo OBD-II code reader. Yup, I had P0507 without a doubt. The FSM procedure for diagnosing this problem was to check for air intake leaks, so I removed all intake ducting up to the throttle body and reinstalled. The RPM did drop a LITTLE but still the P0507 returned within minutes after the DTC being erased.

So, next I printed the accelerator pedal released position learn, throttle valve closed position learning and tried for the idle air volume learning. No matter how many times I tried, or how many times I teased my Maxima with NOS or even JDM oil changes I could not get the idle air volume learning to start.

At this point I was furious, so I had to let the Stealership look at it. I got a call the next business day from the dealer and was told I had P0507 and other codes involving my Throttle Position Sensor. WTF??? I told the dealer to leave my car alone after they told me to pay $1,600 for a new Throttle Body.

Instead, I picked up a used 2002 throttle body from the ORG for $400. Popped it on and the TPS codes went away but P0507 remained. So once more I try the idle air volume learning and HOLY WHISKERS BATMAN I nailed it. The RPM at idle returned to normal!! I drove home with a huge grin thinking I kept $1,200 of my money from going to the Dealer.

However all was not well, the next morning before work BOOM engine start MIL on for YUP you guessed it, P0507. WTF???

Now the FSM says if you pull the intake ducting and there is no air leak, to probe the ECM harness and all this other nonsense. Well no way was I going to tank my ECM. So back to the dealer I go, but this time I inform the NIGHT CREW I was here before and I want a new ECM under extended warranty. I explain the details up to this point.

Dealer agrees and I leave the car. Next morning I receive a call from the dealer, they did the idle air volume relearn with CONSULT-II and it saved no new ECM for me. They want $40. WTF??

-- I do apologize for this long post, and farming a dead thread but passing on information is good --

 

Rebuilt ones from Rockauto.com are $100, FYI.

 

Before wasting $400 on a new throttle body, you should have tried the injector procedure that I pointed out earlier in this thread.

 

I wish I could have SteveB123 but understand how frustrating things are after taking your car to a guy you trust, and ending up having that P0507 code. Then the dealer telling me I had a broken throttle body (which is crap because the car drove PERFECTLY minus the Idle RPM speed being higher than expected).

@ Unklejoe
Yes, I doubt I wasted the $400 on the throttle body because the used throttle body when lightly shaken did not make a noise but the throttle body I pulled from my vehicle sounded like a rattle.

Edit: I don't really trust A-1 CARDONE Parts but that is just me.

 

It could have really been broken, it's just kind of rare for the 5.5gen. Most people get a new ECU and throttle body when the simple injector procedure will actually do the trick. I was in the same boat and just about ready to pull the trigger on a new throttle body, until I discovered the AIVL TSB.

 

I know this thread is old, but I just did this today after my 2002 SE was dying / stalling after I would depress the clutch as I approached traffic lights / stop signs. The above method worked for me.

However, I didn't use TB cleaner. I used rubbing alcohol and a microfiber cloth to wipe / clean everything. I was careful not to press on the butterfly valve in such a way that would move it (when it was open). I cleaned as much as I could while it was closed (being very gentle) and cleaned it the rest of it when it was fully open.

I did not get a CEL when I was done, but the idle was high (~900-950RPM). I did the idle recalibration procedure found here (took 2 tries because I guess I didn't get the timing right the first time) and everything seems good again.

I had never cleaned it before, and it was quite filthy after 211.5k KM's.

 

My car would immediately stall after starting. Hot, cold, didnt matter. Car would turn over and immediately stall unless i held the rpm's up by pressing the gas. I could let the gas go after a few seconds and the car would run fine from that point on. Car did not stall at any other time once it was running.

Just cleaned the throttle body today and did not have any problems at all! Removed battery and unplugged TPS harness. Removed air intake assembly to expose front side of throttle body. Approached job with the intention of removing the throttle body but try as I might I could not get the bottom two bolts to move. Wearing a pair of rubber gloves I worked the throttle body cleaner with a cotton towel in and around the butterfly valve and the area immediately surrounding the throttle body around the valve. My car is just shy of 104k and 9 years old so it was pretty filthy. I moved the valve several times with my finger to make sure I got in and around the valve as much as i could. Put everything back together and VOILA!!! The very first time i started the car the idle jumped all the way to 1400 rpm and hung out there for about 15 seconds. After that it slowly worked its way back down to 675 or so after letting it run for about 15 minutes. No check engine light. No problem with the throttle body. Turned it off and re-started and it jumped to a lil less than 1,000rpm and settled right back down to 675 or so. For those of you worried about the throttle body and TPS in regards to moving the butterfly valve I would suggest removing the battery like i did and unplugging the harness (only for the sake of completeness) and you should be fine. Good Luck to anyone attempting this but I can say with complete certainty that you should not have any issues if you do it the same way that I did. I took my time and it took me about an hour to do this start to finish.

 

Brave man. I think you got lucky. My TB was whacked after cleaning at the dealership.

Glad it worked out for you.

 

i wanted to ask u a question. Is it recommended to add liquid gasket with the intake manifold gasket where the elbow connects. Also the throttle body gasket. would that prevent air leak.

 

Cleaned my TB today after doing some port matching. Just plugged in the TB, turned on the car, put it in gear, then propped a 2x4 to hold the gas down. With the TB plate open, it was easy to clean everything up.

Previous to cleaning, it was idling a little rough at 650rpms (literally hadn't been cleaned once in 140k miles, was BAD). After cleaning, it idles smoothly at 850rpms.

Absolutely no codes or issues.

 

Just enough to open to x RPM, or did it slam 7K and keep bouncing?

Same method would work w/o the car on.

Turn key to on position, put in drive gear (for autos, shift lock must be activated) and it opens when the gas is depressed.

 

When I say I turned the car ON, that means I turned it to the ON position and didn't start it, otherwise I would have said that I started the car. (for me, it's off, ACC, ON, then STARTED) Semantics of course... hard to get the exact meaning on statements like that although I might have expected you to assume I wasn't cleaning the TB with the engine banging off the rev limiter. I took the TB all the way off the car when doing this since I had been using it to port match to my new plenum, then just plugged it in to clean it.

 

I was just bored and pretty much assumed you did what I thought you did, and decided to throw in my comments more for humor's sake.

I've cleaned mine a few times and have yet to have a permanent idle issue.

 

Did the same thing with good results but used my snow brush instead of a 2x4 (which I didn't have laying around my house).

 

im new here, but i thought i was post on the whole unpluging of the injectors for the idle relearn that unklejoe had posted back in 2009. i had tried all the other procedures in the exact order with exact timing many, many times.no success,as soon as i turned off the car it went back up high again. this did the trick on the first try. btw the reason for needing to do this was i took the tb off and cleaned it with a rag and alot of card cleaner, so before you buy a new tb, try this procedure. oh and rockauto.com has the cheapest tb if you were to end up needing it. this for the great info you guys post on here!

 

As the old saying goes. "If its not broken, dont fix it"

 

Well, I have tried the injector trick with no avail (a few times).

I will try a couple more times, but is the ONLY other solution trying a or rebuilt TB? I have cleaned several TB in the past and never thought to look up that the 5.5 gen is so temperamental.

 

After reading this thread I decided to clean my TB. Thought I was careful but now I have the high idle and P0507 code. I can NOT do the relearn proceedure. CEL never blinks tried many times. Took to dealer to see if they could reset with scan tool. They said the TB is bad. I have not tried the injector deal as that sounds kinda sketchy to me and I still can not do the relearn. Dealer wants 170 for reman TB and 170 to put in. Easy to do myself but what if I can't do the relearn when I am done. I guess I'm looking for a little advice here. Would you go to the dealership and pay the money and if it doesn't work then that is on them or do it myself and save some cash. Also, would you trust rockauto for the reman TB?

 

DbW is part of what I would say is an on-going effort to stupid-person-proof cars. Okay, that is a simplification, and not the only reason, but I'll try to offer some of its benefits and consequences.

Yes, DbW systems are more complicated and expensive than their purely mechanical counterparts. However, the advantages of using such a system clearly outweigh the added cost. Ultimately, DbW allows the more (and more precise) control to be designed into a system. Several examples include [adaptive] cruise control, [semi-]automated parallel parking, ESC and brake-and-throttle application. In the last example, the OEM assumes that the majority of drivers will not knowingly apply both the throttle and brake pedal, and the computer will intervene in said cases by [partially] closing the throttle. For the driver assistance systems like parking, the computer has better and more direct control of vehicle movements using DbW. I also know of several safety systems that detect obstacles and or pedestrians and subsequently attempt to avoid collisions. Such a system would clearly need to have control of the throttle in order to function effectively. As you can see, a good driver needs none of these systems under normal driving conditions. There are, however, and ever-increasing number of [bad] drivers on the road, and OEMs are trying to do their part to reduce traffic fatalities.

Finally, despite all of the pedestrian safety measures (pun intended), there can also be "performance oriented" uses. One common example is a "Sport Button", which will often not only firm up suspension (if so equipped) and change steering effort, etc., but also change the pedal sensitivity (i.e. give more throttle opening for smaller pedal travel). Let's see a throttle cable do that

And, to the second part of your statement, rest assured that they are improving many more things in many more areas than you know. Just remember that the bottom line is that they have a business to run, and they would not change things if it did not have a benefit (or was not mandated by legislation).

 

When I say that I have tried it a few times, I am able to do the ecu reset and idle reset just fine, but the next time the car is started... back to 1100rpm.

So a new TB it is if there are no other suggestions... i will probably order that tonight. So frustrating!