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I've gotta do something about my noisy (clunky, creaky) suspension and I've gotta get these worn OE replacement struts out.
Replacing the upper strut mounts (in my opinion) is a must on accounta my car is 18 years old and I'm currently still running the original mounts, front and rear.
Replacement of the mounts with all OEM stuff will run about $350.00 just for the fronts ... I haven't priced the rears yet.
I'm not a penny-pincher or a corner cutter when it comes to the cars but I don't care to just blow $$ either. If OEM is the way I must go, then so be it.
But before I go the most costly route I wanted to check with you guys one last time (I started a somewhat similar thread some months ago) for opinions and testimonials with regard to a less expensive but quality alternative.
In my experience, the only strut mount (front) that lasts and does the best job keeping that noise away is still the OEM SE mount. And I'm seconding Craig as he got me to research that fact because that's what he found too.
I just redid all four corners with OEM everything except I used Koni STR-T Struts (orange) and I used heat shrink tubing for spring insulators rather than OEM. WAY better, but a beotch to put on until you get the hang of it. And now Craig is going to copy me with my version of spring insulators.
If you have any lines of rust on your springs where they would make contact if compressed, you're also getting a lot of noise from there as well. I thought my whole front end was shot including the suspension crossmember slapping up and down, mine were so noisy. Now you would not believe how quiet it is. Like new again. And now of course, I can hear everything else it needs. LOL
As far as the Strut Mount Insulator you want, this one ONLY: Nissan 54320-40U02
You won't regret spending the money when it's done right. And for your little beauty, it's truly the right investment. All the OEM parts cost me around $500 delivered.
I also made my own gaskets from 1/8" neoprene gasket material to add an additional cushion between the strut and body. NICE!
I hope this helps!
A mechanic near me that used to be a member here (Jeff at Maximum Tuning) reinforced what Craig and I subscribe to. For Strut hardware (other than springs and struts) OEM is the only one he didn't have problems with. That includes KYB, Monroe and all the others stuff. Pics below.
The strut mount price looks low. Be sure to price out the SE mounts because those are thicker than non-SE. You'll be glad you went with the thicker SE mounts. KP can attest to that also.
Just a quick note. I ordered the set of mounts that I'm running on 98 Maxima from Infiniti for an I30T. I went the I30T route to get the thicker SE /Touring style mount.
www.courtesyparts.com lists the GLE/GXE part in my SE search results. SE part numbers match the ones shown above.
STRUT MOUNT - NISSAN (54320-40U10)
SHOP FOR RELATED PARTS IN SUSPENSION COMPONENTS
List Price: $58.71
You Save: $18.35 (31% off)
Sale Price: $40.36
For a more recent set that I ordered for the 99 SE, I called courtesyparts and ordered 5432040U02 over the phone. I'm not seeing the courtesyparts site list the correct part number for the SE model. It lists the GXE and SE as using the same mount part numbers.
If you'll notice in my post above, the best mount insulator part number is in bold.
I entered the Nissan OEM part numbers in Google and it displayed the dealers, Amazon and eBay sources, so I could assemble all the parts at the lowest cost DELIVERED.
I had zero problems and didn't source a single part from Courtesy.
I have more time than money to spend on struts AGAIN in less than 2.5 years. OUCH! Should have done it right 2.5 years ago.
Doing some shopping at the orderinfinitiparts.com website I found that ordering from there saves anywhere from $3.00 to 5.00 per piece and even $8.00 on a couple of pieces ... those savings are off Courtesy, ebay and Amazon prices.
On a side note, I figured out why Febest strut boots do not last like OEM. The boot material on the Febest is a bit softer compared to the OEM. The firmer rubber on the OEM allows to boot to be more rigid. That appears to be the reason people report the Febest boots fall apart after a couple of years of use.
I'm willing to try new parts but.. Strut jobs are a way too much of a pain to rework every few years. Its not one of my favorite jobs and I would rather not repeat it due to failed parts. So I'm reworking the 99 model to be like the 98.
Be sure to insulate the dead springs if you have any. I can hear the dead springs in the picture make noise when driving over speed bumps.
Any place you have rust rings between any of the coils on your springs, that's where they are banging and they make more noise than bad strut mount insulators.
And like Craig, I HATE having to deal with premature noisy struts, so OVERKILL is just about enough.
I am a believer in DSG Canusa CFW 0750 Heat Shrink Tubing for my choice of spring insulators. It's thick walled at 1/8" thick and no other insulator is even close to that thickness or anywhere near as tough.
I'm pretty sure the majority of my noise is the springs.
But, I'm also pretty sure that's the result of my use of cheap OE (currently well worn) struts.
I'm not sure, with the use of "lowered" appropriate struts, the spring noise would be an issue but I do plan to take KP's recommendation and insulate the coils with his recommended stuff.
I'm hoping to catch up with KP with Koni and all for the 98 model during Thanksgiving break. Adam and Jack will be out of school to assist. Arthritis is taking its toll on my right shoulder. It has sure stopped a few projects since June.
I have Monroe quick struts with about 3000 miles on them. Already had to replace one under warranty and the other is failing too. I have no idea why they warranty these for life when they're such garbage.
It's easy to swap them out, but the clunking and grinding drive me crazy. Plus who wants to replace the strut every three months? I might complain enough to get all my money back and just do it the right way.
Following KP11520's recommendation for spring insulators, here are two pictures from today's project. That head shrink insulation material KP recommends is out of this world good.
Now both the 98 and the 99 model will be running a combination of H & R springs with Koni STR.T struts.
Sounds like you agree that this stuff is the best choice BIG time!
Yes, it is a PITA to work with, but you will never have the springs being a HUGE source of banging and clunking again! For this, overkill is just enough.
Beautiful Choices and Work! OEM everything except Struts, Springs and Spring Insulator Material! That's how it's done!
I know you're going to enjoy the ride........ a nice QUIET RIDE! Hopefully, those Neoprene Gaskets will make it even a bit more quiet.