Let's talk V1 SC Torque Fellas
 

Well I estimate that with my 2.5" mandrel Y, full exhaust (minus stock cat), and SC w/CAI running a 3.33" 6-1 disc, I have about 315HP at the crank. But torque is not something that I see discussed a lot in here. How much torque do you guys think I'm producing @ the crank? Where can I find a chart or something about V1 power and torque with certain pulleys @ certain RPMs and whatnot?

~240-250 ft.lb

:goofy: :goofy: :goofy:

Dude....naturally aspirated I had like 236 at the crank

forget the crank... chesty is giving you wheel.

Ah what? You went from 205hp to 236hp(a 31ftlbs difference) with only bolt ons?? You got a dyno to back that up?

Mandrel bent 2.5" Y = ~17-19lbs. at the crank

2.5" B-pipe = ~3-5lbs at the crank

muffler = ~1-2lbs. at the crank

PR CAI = 6-10lbs at the crank

I figured. Just giving him a hard time

LOL!!!! :jeffy: Let's just stop the rice math 101 right now Craigy.

Confused has a V1 with 3.33" pulley like yours, along with y, RT cat, 2k muffler and he got 253 ft-lbs of fwtq.

confused

Craig, when are you going to get the car dynoed? That's the only way to know for sure how much hp/tq you are putting down.

He's also running the 8:1 FMU disc. I'm running the 6:1 which means I should be getting an extra ~7hp/tq right? I'm still on the stock FPR which means i'm running really rich (39-42 at idle) so I get horrible gas milage. Getting a SARD should lower pressure ~6psi, yielding me better gas mileage and more power.

Cumalot, I don't have 80 bucks right now, I am on the verge of buying tires for my 18x8.5s, then i'm selling my 17x8's to someone. THEN i'm getting a MUCH needed ACT. THEN i'll proly dyno. ;)

I'm not sure what you're saying here, Craig. You're running leaner than Confused, so you think you're getting more hp, but you're also still too rich so you're getting horrible gas mileage? (You sure it's not a case of boost-induced lead-foot that's burning up your gas? :) ) I think you should seriously take Cumalot's advice and have some dyno-tuning done.

You are making 400 ft/lbs according to my rice math calculator. My number will vary slightly because I'm not sure how many stickers you are sporting.

Actually I'm not lead footed, that's the problem. Since i'm on the stock FPR, I run rich at idle and part throttle. Only at WOT am I running right. So I would probubly be better off flooring it everywhere. :rolleyes:

I am running the 6:1, but the stock FPR. Self defeating. I guess with the 12:1 that I was running at first, I was running EXTREMELY rich, the 8:1 VERY rich, and now am just running RICH. Getting a SARD should improve my gas mileage by around 15% and also give me more horzepowahz yO.

1MAXN2V :rolleyes: Well according to your rice calculator I should be making around 100hp/tq since I have no stickers whatsoever.

:laugh:

:laugh: :laugh:

RICE DYNO !!!!!!:laugh:

Those who do not have boost, DO NOT reply to this thread. Oh, I guess Mr. Nismo and Lucas are going to have to quit whoring around. :rolleyes: :kiss: :mad:

Dude the manufactureed estimate is not nearly accurate, just cause it says 20lbs on the side of the box doesnt mean that is the outcome on the dyno

:rolleyes:

Warpspeed Y: Came in plain brown box, no instructions, just pipe

Cattman CAI: Came in Plain brown box, instructions, but I dont recall power ratings

B-pipe/Muffler: Flowmasters obviously overrates.

Okay, maybe I was overrating my HP some. But I know with those mods I made 30+ more HP at the crank. So basically you guys can just suck it. :kiss: And after your done sucking, suck on it a little more. :kiss:

You dont know that you made 30+ hp until you dyno it. If you dont want an honest response then don't make a post u ****

Good luck getting anywhere with this injunction. Oh wait, I'm not boosted yet, please ignore this post.

Even though the Walbro fuel pump gives you higher than stock fuel pressure when not boosting, you shouldn't be running rich except at WOT. Being in closed loop mode, the O2 sensors detect a rich mixture, send the signal to the ECU, and the ECU shortens the injector pulse width to compensate and lean out the mixture to what it is programmed to achieve. The ECU may think you're running stock fuel pressure, but it reacts based on what the O2 sensors are telling it. Except at WOT, when the ECU ignores the O2 sensors and reverts to preprogrammed fuel mapping.

I have the Walbro fuel pump and I'm running 40 psi FP at idle and 50 psi at WOT, and I have seen no decrease in mpg at all, and no change in EGT's except at WOT, where I'm getting about 50F less than before.

You sure it's not just a teensy bit of lead-foot?

I'm sorry, speculating is fun, but all you are doing by adding up every 6hp for this, 30hp for that etc is settings yourself up to be let down... to find out your hp/tq, you must dyno. To get the optimal hp/tq, you must dyno tune :D until then, everything is... "in theory"

CRAIGY...