Battery relocation
 

I'm running out of room in the engine bay so the first logical choice to make more room is to move the battery to the trunk. I already have 0 gauge wire running to the back of the trunk. Here are my concerns. 1. What do I do with the old battery clamps? 2. I have a ground system so would moving the battery to the back defeat it's purpose? Now, would it be better to run two batteries. One OEM spec size in the trunk and a small race type of battery in the engine bay? Run it parallel or get an isolator?

the negative of the old battery clamp you can just bolt down to the body or find a clean body ground.

the positive you'll need to connect that to the 0 ga you ran from the trunk to the engine bay.

the negative from the battery (now in trunk) should be the body.

some say to run the negative from the trunk to the engine bay...according to Don (Pearlmax)..that's not needed.

IMO...if your battery is strong enough you shouldn't need to run another battery.

Will moving the battery to the back make it harder to get traction? Since now the front is lighter.

That is the about the same amount of weight as 3 gallons of gas. I don't think you would notice much of a traction difference.

ground it to the strut tower. i have one 2 gauge wire going there and one to the bracket that holds in the jack.

make sure you have a good box to put it in that is secure as well.

my suggestion would be to get an odessey battery and that bracket.
Steve

I plan to just keep the grounding system the same and ensure I have a optima red top or similar to carry enough juice from the trunk to the engine bay

I have 0 gauge wire also running from the back to the front.

ive got a 35$ walmart truck battery and 4ga power and ground and have never had a problem so i wouldnt worry so much

0ga is major overkill but if its already run i guess just leave it

It is definitely excessive and not required to run the neg. calble up front. No, your grounding kit will no become totally useless. It probably will do less than before cause you will be using new/cleaned grounds.

No need for two batteries or buying 15 feet of 0 gauge wire for the negative for no reason. Instead get about 3ft. of 0 gauge and run it from your neg. on the bat. to the body. I ran mine to a hole I drilled in the body near the spear tire because your can drill all the way though the body and secure the cable w/ a nut and bolt. As for your everything that was hooked up to your pos. under the hood such as your starter cable and those 3 smaller wires get a fused distribution block like the ones you use for amplifiers and you run everything into that including your 0 gauge wire that is running to the trunk to your pos. on your battery. I have the Stinger distribution block which is fused and has a digital read out on how many volts are going though it which you can get at any stereo shop.

^^^^ my friend has his battery in the back and doesnt use a dist block but it has major problems starting. He uses 0 gauge and put the 0 gauge with a ring terminal between the bolt that tightens the old setup to a battery in the front if there was one up there. Yet car has issues starting. It turns over but wont finish and sometimes wont even get that far. However, with jumper cables from battery in back to the pos hook up in front and a neg bolt in the front, the car almost starts up perfectly. Is this dist block the problem solver? i thought as long as a ring terminal is connected with old setup the car would still get the proper power....

Sounds like a bad ground in the trunk area or a bad battery.

By friend you mean who exactly? :)

battery was tested good with low charge...and fully charged

we'll see if a bigger ground wire will solve problem.....

sonic, u know which friend i'm talking about...u met him a few times, raced him going back from CT a few times

Oh that one. Tell him to call me more often.

hahaha, u mad funny, he still wants to race u with your wet shot....interesting race wouldnt u say? :)

:russ: I wanna meet this "friend" as well...lol :nono: :slant:

-matt

the neg terminal in the engine bay is already grounded to the chassis then comes up to the battery terminal so on my car i did not bolt it to anything i hust put it aside. just back track from the (-) terminal back and you will see what i am talking about.

i grounded the battery to the chassis through the trunk. i used that grommet next to the left rear wheel well.

now the front i plan on going with a distribution block as soon as i get off my lazy arse and clean up the mess of wires left over from my 5 speed swap.

hey size fuse can we use with our battery i asked some guy at pep boys and he told me someing about 600+ cold cranking amps and how im start a fire since the battery is too far away, blah blah blah.

anyways i'm running a 2 guage wire to the front, for positive, but heard it was good to have a fused block next to the battery. so what amp fuse can i use?

what is a good ground? we just took any bolt off near the rear light and the stupid stinger ring terminal has a funny bend so it touches the car and his held tight but doesnt lay completely flat on the wall of the car. Will this present a problem?

Also if a dist block is needed, there are 3 4 gauge wires and 1 0/2 gauge wire coming from battery.

the problem with battery charge was the ground, we went down to a good friend in middletown, NJ who knows his sh*t and took care of most of the problems. We so happy :)

I knew it was the ground.

This is what I did for ground. I used some sandpaper to remove the paint first and made sure it was all bare metal.

http://images4.fotki.com/v45/photos/...CP01599-vi.jpg

who makes a battery relocating kit?

theres lots of cheap kits on ebay or you can go to autozone and get everything there

I bought one from summit. In the instructions it said to connect the positive wire to the starter solenoid. It has worked great since I got it and is even easier than a distribution block.

Do you think the 4 gauges(both +,-) wire that PFI send with the turbo will be sufficient or do I need to get the 2/0 gauge(+,-)or just get the 2/0 gauge (-) will be enought?Thanx! :cool:

PS:where did you get that silver/gold (-)post from,audio place?

4ga works fine in my car