i am sc'ed and need hlep w/e manage
 

ok so i just got my e manage and the question i have is, in the instructions it says to remove the front plate to set the 3 set screws on the left to determine what maf and how many cylinders you have, the only problem is it does not tell you what all those #'s and letters mean. any help would be apreciated

jeff

set it to 7 0 1 from left to right. I just installed mine also. Are you upgrading injectors?

no not yet my afr is a 15-16

your air fuel ratio is 15-16????!!!!

Dont drive your car with that air/fuel ratio. Thats not even good for N/A

at idle?? 15-16 at idle isn't too abnormal untuned

i have a dyno graph that show afr and it's off the charts rich, they said in that thread that it was because of using the fmu disc that comes from stillen, if i change the disc then i won't get enough fuel and will need to change my injectors. which after doing my tranny i have to save up for. so i got the emange to bring down the afr to normal 13.5 i just want to make sure i get this all right. as far as those hidden switches. 7 0 1 is that the right setting?, thanks chris

I can point you to a GOOD deal on a set of slightly used drop-in PE380cc injectors for $475.

how much higher in cc is that over stock? b/c i'm running rich on stock injectors with that fmu disc from stillen, and when i down size i want to be able to run it without loosing idle, i've heard some nightmares about idle issue's and larger injectors

Stock on our cars is 290cc, so you you're getting a 90cc bump.

That's equivalent to running ~75psi of fuel pressure vs. stock 43.5psi.

PE380cc are the best injector on the market for our cars as far as Plug-N-Play goes and have the best atomization which dictates idling quality.

Using the eManage you'd have no problem IMHO, but as soon as chrismax installs his PE510cc, you may consider those instead for more headroom to grow into.

I am confused here.....you want to run 13.5 AF on a boosted car?

Dude, 15-16 is DANGEROUSLY lean, not rich (for boosting, not for just idle AFR). If your car is running 15-16 AFR under boost, I'm honestly surprised you haven't blown the motor to bits. 13.5 even is dangerously lean on a boosted car, your engine wouldn't last long with a 13.5 AFR under boost. 12.5:1 is about as lean as you want it, more ideally 11.5 or thereabouts. But then you said you dynod and it was off the chart rich. Which would be like 10:1 or less. So which is it? I'm confused.

i remember seeing his A/F chart and the line nose dived in the upper RPM's from what i remember.

Here's his recent dyno chart:
http://exoticcreationscc.com/296dyno.jpg

thanks ice i i should have just said rich, i was unsure of the #'s it was less than 10 to 1 which is killing my power above 4500

sorry for the confusion, but it was 10.1 and he said maybe lower the guy at the dyno shop. anyway, this was my reason for buying the emanage, i want to have it set up for the nhra sport compact nationals down here in jupiter florida, at moroso. so i can try to get a true new best time with my upgraded tranny,

I put a wideband a/f into my car and it says I am running lean; ~15:1 in closed loop mode - idling or normal driving. As soon as I hit the boost, it drops to about 13.5:1; and keeps dropping as boost and RPMs build. Maximum richness is about 10:1 at WOT just before fuel cut in 3rd gear.

Should I be concerned about the leaness in normal operation? I have an E-manage, but haven't installed it yet...

15:1 during crusing is fine, it can be improved, but part throttle tuning is a chore and as long as its around 15 you are fine. hitting the high 10s at WOT is "fine" but RICH, like was said earlier, you'll want it in the high 11s to mid/high 12s, so you'll need the Emanage to make those adjustments

Can you make those type of adjustments with a SAFC II?

Yes, but using the SAFC has its pit falls. How an Apexi S-AFC changes AR ratio is that it intercepts the signal from the MAF and tells the ECU a slightly different voltage. The problem with this is that the timing will change along with the amount of fuel dumped. When trying to take away fuel with an SAFC you are also inreasing the timing, something you don't want to do when you have a factory NA with gobbs of timing advance that has been boosted.

An SAFC is good for small corrections, say less than 10%. From my expierence on 5psi, when taking away 18% or more I started to get some knock. The more boost your running the more significant the effect will be