New Meximax: Built VQ35 with a 6-spd HLSD
 

SUMMARY:

Fully built FWD VQ35 with a overspinning, belt-slipping Vortech V2 SQ running on custom JWT tune and mated to a 6-speed HLSD putting down 443whp/378wtq (STD corrected) on 93 octane. Uncorrected numbers were 454whp and 387wtq on that 50ºF dyno day.


MODS SUMMARY:

Engine:
- Swapped VQ35 with VQ30 timing equipment (no variable valve timing)
- 8.8:1 Wiseco Pistons (stock bore)
- Eagle Rods w/ 3/8” ARP Bolts
- Balanced/Blue Printed Rotating Assembly
- ARP Main and Head Studs (std)
- JDM Cams (AKA JWT S1 Knockoffs) on custom intake cam timing
- Cosworth Headgasket
- JWT Valve Springs/shims
- Mild head work (gasket matched intake/exhaust ports)
- New OEM VQ30 timing equipment (chains, tensioners, etc., including water pump)
- Custom Z33 Intake Manifold w/ Motordyne 7/16” Spacer
- 70mm ’01Pathfinder TB

Boost:
- Vortech V2 SQ
- Matty’s V1 SC Plate
- 2.62” pulley
- FMIC (bar and plate) 29*12*3.5, 3” in/out
- 3” charge pimping

Transmission:
- Swapped ’03 6-spd transmission
- Helical Limited Slip Differential from Spec V
- 3.813 Final Gear retained
- Stock Flywheel with welded A32 CPS Signal Disk
- JWT Z33 Clutch
- Stock ’03 6-spd axles
- Redline 100% heavy duty shockproof oil

Engine Management System (EMS):
- JWT Custom Boost Tune (93 octane and 116 octane, 7300 rev limit)
- Apexi SAFC
- J&S Safegaurd w/ knock monitor
- Kenne Bell Boost-a-Spark
- NGK Iridium gapped to .035
- Innovate XD16 O2 Wideband

Fuel:
- RC 550 Injectors
- Walbro 255 high pressure fuel pump (hardwired)
- Custom Dual Feed Returneless rails on OEM return system
- Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (1:1 rise rate)

Exhaust:
- Hotshot headers w/ custom 3” collector
- Custom 2.5” True dual with X-pipe

BUILD DETAILS:

Engine:
Let’s me just start by saying that I am fully cognizant of the fact that a built engine is overkill for a daily driven Maxima. I decided to take this path with the components listed above only because it could/will be easy to transfer to a RWD VQ35 should I choose to take the Z33 route. Aside from that, I figured it would be a nice challenge for me.

The total cost for all engine parts and services was about $2500 and $0 for labor since the engine was entirely assembled by me. The engine assembly went very smooth as it would for a standard VQ35 build. I know what some of you are thinking, why ARP Std head studs when the OEM head bolts are stronger? It was plain and simply my personal decision, plus I got them for cheaper than new OEM bolts. If installed properly, they should hold up just fine for the power I will be making. If I chose to move to a different platform, I will open the engine up anyway to transfer the built bottom end and will upgrade head studs to L19s then.

The only anomalous event I saw was with the installation of ARP Main studs. In order to get the necessary clearance, you have to notch your lower oil pan (both VQ30 or VQ35). Also, not engine build related, but for those of you that are planning on swapping to a VQ35 and supercharging, make sure that you use the VQ30 tensioner bracket. The VQ35’s is different and will cause interference for the serpentine belt going to the SC pulley.

Transmission:
I decided to avoid the whole clutch spacer issues or starter/flywheel teeth breaking issues by simply installing an OEM flywheel/starter with a welded A32 CPS signal ring. I found a pretty good deal on JWT Z33 clutch and settled on it. The only issue I had was with a bit of interference between the transmission housing and the car’s cross member. Apparently, my lowered power train contributed to this, but nothing that an extra 1/2" drop and a bit of grinding on the transmission housing could not fix.

Overall, the 6-speed transmission shifting is nice and crisp while the JWT clutch engagement is much smoother than my previous setup and requires less pedal effort. The short gearing keeps me on the power curve while the lazy 6th gear with the 3.812 final are great for hwy econ (28.5 mpg on this built setup at avg. speed of 80 mpg). As a side note, the HLSD does seem to provide a better defense against torque steer than my old VLSD. It basically takes less effort to keep the car in the lane than with the VLSD.


EMS:

I know what you guys are thinking, EU >> JWT, and I agree, but let me explain why I went with the JWT route.

I was content with my old stock ECU, Z32, FMU equipped setup. However, I would not have been able to rev past 6500 where I knew I would still be making good power. As some of you may recall, I used to have a JWT ECU with the Nitrous Daughter Board for about 5 years. Well, it had been sitting in my closet since I dropped in the SC. I spoke with the folks at JWT, and they agreed to reprogram that ECU and replace the stock performance tune with a 93 octane Z32/550/boost tune and my nitrous tune to a 116 oct/Z32/550/boost tune, both with a 7300 rpm limit. The cost for this reprogram was much less than the cost of any used EU (hence my decision to go with JWT). I provided my build spec to JWT and asked for an aggressive tune for both octane ratings (no timing datalog yet, sorry). Overall, I am very satisfied with their product. The ECU has had no hiccups whatsoever and I was able to raise my fuel pressure back to normal and remove my FMU. Under boost, I need zero correction on SAFC until fuel starvation becomes an issue (more on that below).


Results:
I will start off by saying that I wasn’t expecting huge numbers. Quite to the contrary, the lowered compression would inevitably yield less power. The intent was to use the cams to bring some of that lost power back. Not surprisingly, the loss of compression in combination with cams killed my off-idle torque. Once strapped to the dyno, I discovered that there was some belt slip. I was peaking a hair above 12psi at 6000rpm, then slowly dropping to 10psi by 7000rpm. Additionally, I discovered that my fuel system was not up to par. The highest fuel pressure I saw during the dyno pull was about 63psi (constant from 5800 to 7000). The only way to maintain my desired low 12:1 A/F ratio was to add a significant amount of correction (> +40%) via my SAFC for 6500, and 7000. Needless to say, the inadvertent decrease in timing (due to +% corrections via SAFC) and slipping belt caused a plummeting of power past 6200 rpm.

I really wanted to increase the tension of the belt to really squeeze all the CFM out of that blower, but I knew my fuel system would be limiting….so I called it the day after a couple of pulls. Apparently the actual (uncorrected) 454whp was just about all that my fuel system could support.

On a side note, I did notice that the VQ35 ignition system is good for those 454whp without spark blowout. In the short future, I will be removing my Kenne Bell boost-a-spark and use it to boost my fuel pump. By my next trip to the dyno, I should hopefully be packing a stronger fuel pump, better belt tension, and race fuel for my high octane tune.


Overall Impression:
I am very content with my new setup. The built engine was broken-in without the SC, and driven hard for about 2000 miles before dropping in the SC. I drove close to another 1000 miles on the SC before I made it over to the dyno. Aside from my slightly starving fuel system and minor belt slip, I really don’t have anything to complain about.
The engine and transmission are mechanically sound and the JWT tune provides for smooth start, great part throttle response and no CELs. I was content with the dyno, but I was more content with my post-dyno challenge. On the way home I happened to catch up to a S65 AMG driven by a cool dude on a very wide open 6 lane hwy here in Houston. I don’t encourage street racing, but let’s just say I saw the “V12 bi-turbo” badge right on my door from three-quarters and all the way to a buck thirty. I really thought that 700+ tq beast was going to eat me, but we were equally surprised that I ran aside him the whole time. I was truly a superb run that made my whole build worth its time and money. I still cannot erase this silly grin.

NOTE: I have linked to higher resolution images. Expect longer download time for each.

PICS of the build for the gear heads:

Bottom End Build

1. OEM to Wiseco/Eagle Piston and rod comparison
2. OEM to Wiseco/Eagle Piston and rod comparison
3. OEM to Wiseco/Eagle Piston and rod comparison
4 Polished crank sitting on VQ35 block with main bolt studs
5. OEM Main bearing and main caps (different colors for different tolerances)

http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/8...son3hm4.th.jpg http://img136.imageshack.us/img136/6...son2ov3.th.jpg http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/750...son1pa8.th.jpg http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/185...ottodg6.th.jpg http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/416...ingsew7.th.jpg

Engine End Build (Con’t)
1. Bottom end assembled and girdled up
2. Piston/rods installed and head studs in place
3. Light valve lapping (500 grit)
4. Head cleaning

http://img103.imageshack.us/img103/7...edupvd2.th.jpg http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/1...tudsop9.th.jpg http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/1...leanvu0.th.jpg http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/1...ftervd4.th.jpg

Oil Pan Interference
1. Oil interference with partial notching
2. Other side with partial notching
3. Top view of notched oil pan at each main cap bolt location

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/6...ithmci7.th.jpg http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9...intehl8.th.jpg http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/6...hingpz9.th.jpg

Differentials and Cable Running:
1. Open differential
2. Helical Limited Slip Differential w/ unbolted final gear
3. Final Gear: 3.812 and 4.133
4. Enginer bay before shifter cable routing
5. After shifter cable running (also cleaned and installed new rack bushing and boots)

[http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/5...diffpv4.th.jpg http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/1...hlsdzs4.th.jpg http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/8...earsuc5.th.jpg http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/5...swapko0.th.jpg http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/1...swapsd2.th.jpg

Flywheel with A32 CPS Signal Ring pictures and How-To:

1. A33 and A32 clutch comparison
2. Cutting the A32 CPS Signal Ring
3. CPS Signal Ring Separated
4. Welded/Balanced A33 Flywheel and CPS signal ring
5. CPS sensor-to-ring check with flywheel installed

I started off by hacking my old A32 manual transmission’s CPS signal ring off. Based on my measurements, the middle of the signal disk needs to be about 9.5mm (towards the block) from the flywheel. I took my vernier calipers and took a trip through the hardware department until I found a bolt with exactly that height. I cleaned the flywheel surface and super glued a number of bolts (10) around the flywheel (side where flywheel faces block). I then carefully centered and super glued the signal plate to the bolts. Once the glue dried, I re-measured height and concentricity, then tack welded the ring. I re-measured once again, then carefully seam welded in some predetermined spots. Once that once done, I knocked the super glued bolts off and had the guys at USA Racing Engines check the runoff and balance the flywheel. I don’t recall the exact number, but the runoff was practically nothing. Upon assembly, the CPS phase signal sensor required absolutely no moving since the signal disk was dead on the middle.


http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/7...chesvi2.th.jpg http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/2...tingsk7.th.jpg http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/3...ringiu4.th.jpg http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/890...lrinnx4.th.jpg http://img57.imageshack.us/img57/635...tclugs9.th.jpg

Transmission interference and mount modding:
1. Alternate view of CPS Ring
2. JWT Clutch Disk on installed flywheel
3. Potential transmission and cross member frame interference
4. 6 spd stock mount w/ urethane inserts
5. 6 spd mount modded w/ urethane inserts

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/5...ginfnh3.th.jpg http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/3...diskyg2.th.jpg http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/9...encetj7.th.jpg http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/4...huregk5.th.jpg http://img91.imageshack.us/img91/737...ountua9.th.jpg

Clutch lines and support bearing brackets
1. 6 spd transmission with A32 mid slave cylinder hydraulic lines shows
2. Slave cylinder connected to hard line (requires a bit of stretching
3. A33 and A32 axle support bearing brackets are different (must use A33 for 6-spd)
4. 6 spd axles and new ES Bushing on Lower control arms

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/499...inesqz5.th.jpg http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/760...o6spwc8.th.jpg http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/20/...cketrf7.th.jpg http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/964...hingna9.th.jpg

Dyno Results:

Results – Uncorrected:
454 whp @ 6300 rpm
387 wtq @ 5800 rpm

Results - STD:
443 whp @ 6300 rpm
378 wtq @ 5800 rpm


Results - SAE:
430 whp @ 6300 rpm
366 whp @ 5800 rpm

http://img406.imageshack.us/img406/4...ostdjr8.th.jpg

Update to issues listed above:

Fuel:

Issue: Some fuel starvation during high boost/rpm. Required +40 (at 6500 and 7000) on SAFC to get 12:1 A/F ratio.

Solution: Moved my Kenne Bell Boost-a-spark to my boost voltage going to my fuel pump. The unit starts bumping up the voltage at 4psi and is set to provide 16.5 V to the pump at redline. The increase in voltage really gets that Walbro flowing. I now have 0% correction across the rpm band to get the proper A/F...woohoo.

Belt Slip:

Issue: Belt was slipping, but quasi desired since I previously could not meet fuel demand on the high end.

Solution: After fixing my fuel issue, I gave the belt extra tightening to get it nice and taught. I now hit a hair over 13psi at about 6700, but haven't pushed it to 7300 since that would spin my blower to 62690!!!.

Also discovered that the belt has stretched considerably over the past year. I am at the limit of my tensioner with my current belt (Goodyear Gatorback 68.5" belt, GTR-4060685).

Nice work man :thumbsup:


How much timing is the JWT pulling?

Nice work! My only complaint is that the pictures on imageshack are too small/not high enough resolution to see the details in some of them.


Out of curiosity, what was the mileage on the engine when you started the build, and how close to spec were the clearances?

Man you beat me to it. I was thinking of doing a similar build but I was going to wait and see if my engine ever died.
I am still on the 3.125" pulley, but I have a reichard racing anti-slip 2.70" pulley sitting here to be installed. I just need to decide if its easier to build this engine now or see if it even blows up and build one later.

btw, you need to go to a t-trim blower. You can run a larger pulley and still get the same boost which will help with belt slip, plus over-spinning that V2 is making a ton of heat.

Meh,.... Weaksauce!


J/K
Nice build and congrats on those numbers. Was wondering when you where going to complete this project and post up the results.

Nice build up. I'm glad to see that you are using Jwt's programing. I was having a debate with some guys, that were telling me not to use it. Keep us posted on this build up and how the Jwt program is working... And again nice build up....

Another wonderful post, I wish more people would make posts fully documenting their setups like this.

Great job ...Boy do I learn alot from you guys
Thankyou meximax for sharing your build.
My build is very similar except I will be using a turbo.
I did not know about notching the oil pan. I noticed you also milled down the baffles like I did, were you able to keep the tray?

Awesome car man. You basically have the best of everything on that machine.

:speechless:

Outstanding!!!

WOW. very, very nice.

Do you have any videos?....I like to watch.

sick

very nice setup

So mine goes in next, Right? Ha... Great build with great numbers..

Mexi,

I have canceled my subscription to playboy.com and subscribed to this thread. Thank you for saving me 19.95 a month.

and uh, nice work.

Aguas, te pasas.... sweet setup... am I gonna be able to see the beast in person this Christmas?

damn bro real nice man congrats my friend

this as the rest of what you do is impressive.

did you go this built motor route because you were feeling that your 3.5 was going to take a dive on you or was this just to get it done? also what method did you go about doing your 6spd swap? there are so many different ways to do it floating around and I was wondering about the path you took.

now thats a MAX if I ever saw one...
way to make your dreams come true and congrats on the wonderful machine you have created.

Interested in that 6 speed swap. Nice work

Very nice setup. I am hoping for similar results for my SCed VQ35 S13.

Andres, why are you making this harder for me? :wall:

hahah, wow VERY nice work. Hopefully you can work out that slipping belt, or switch to a T-trim or something (dunno much about s/c'ers), I dont like that drop off in power after 6300 to redline. Thats from what I could eye-ball a 50whp plummet.

But heck, even with that taken into account, this is an amazing setup. Great job!

and the BEST part of all this, you did it YOURSELF :sprint:

Way to go!! :bowdown: You've managed to outdo yourself and make even more power than what you previously listed in the official SC/turbo dyno thread. :clap:

Very nice!....I was trying to do this 3.5sc 6spd as well..Problem for me is that I'm limited in time and always helping my dad at the shop with customer's cars... But wow...impressive results. I'm having a problem removing the main bearing cap bolts. Did you use a E14 female torx to remove it? I'm having a problem removing this and everytime I'm applying more force, I can see the indentation on the head of the bolt, almost like stripping it. Any tips would be appreciated thanks.

This is the 4th built 3.5 in a 4th gen I know besides Mardigrasmax and my two friends running around NY...but they are turbocharged. But I like your build the best (besides Mardi) because you actually went all the way with a good thought process and tune regarding the engine management system. Some people (like my friends) go thru the trouble of building and boosting but will half @$$ when it comes to going to get a good dyno tune. I tip my hat off to you sir. Keep up the good work.

great work!!! two of my friends did the same thing and we are wating on one of them to finish getting tuned+ our 5.5 turbo is going for a tune also......yess 5.5 turbo!!!! but anyways keep up the good work bro and your numbers are siiiiiiiiiicccccccckkkkkkkk...........3.5 ftw!!!

"Quote" great work!!! two of my friends did the same thing and we are wating on one of them to finish getting tuned+ our 5.5 turbo is going for a tune also......yess 5.5 turbo!!!! but anyways keep up the good work bro and your numbers are siiiiiiiiiicccccccckkkkkkkk...........3.5 ftw!!!
__________________
5.5 turbo thats unheard of.

Great job meximax Look like your # was just a bit higher than you thought!

Fixed those for you Sir.

Mileage on the engine was roughly 80,000 miles.

How close to spec were the clearances? A bit vague, but here my response attempt with a bit of detail:

-There were a couple of major interferences, but I have already discussed those on post #1.

-The only other quasi major clearance was with valve lash/clearance. I guess the combination of valve lapping on not so great quality control on JDM cams caused for 1 valve to have clearance issues. I did not feel like ordering a new valve lifter, so I just milled down the lifter to get the proper thickness (for proper lash).

-Due to the journal polishing, the rod bearings required a bump to Bearing Grade No. 1 (which was only .001~.002 larger than a Grade 0)

-The main bearing selection was based off the main journal micked values and cylinder block housing inner diameter which is stamped on the crankshaft. The stock were a combination of Grades 2 and 4. The post polished journals required Grades 4 (blue) and 6 (purple) as seen on picture 5 of post #2.

-Cylinder bores were given a light hone to remove some of the glazing. The post hone cylinder bores varied from 95.52mm to 95.53 (considered std.). I actually measured all the piston and bores and shuffled them around to try to get the most consistent piston-to-bore clearance.

-Crankshaft end-play and everything else that I can think of was std.


Yes I was able to keep the windage tray. The unmodified VQ35 tray will clear the ARP main stud bolts and will give you the proper clearance for the beefier Eagle Rods with ARP bolts. The VQ30 tray can be made to work, but will require extensive modification.

It was a bit of both, but mostly the latter. I really just wanted an increase in overall reliability by building the engine and swapping to the 6-spd.

I took the route that I deemed to be the most mechanically efficient and reliable. In other words, leave everything as stock as possible. The only non-stock changes were the addition of the JWT clutch/PP and the swapping of the CPS Signal Rings. Everything else is stock, except for the differential, but it technically is a stock part.

As a side note, when you purchase the Z33 JWT Clutch/PP Kit, you will receive a Z33 throw out bearing which is very different than the A33's. Make sure that you source out a A33 throw-out bearing if you decide to install a Z33 clutch along with your 6-spd swap.

I will post some videos up, but probably not until after the holidays.

Thanks! :)



Sorry, should have been more specific. I was primarily thinking about the bottom end - rod and main bearings, cylinder bores etc (which you did answer well, thank you). I ask because I'm building a 3.5 with similar mileage, and am just curious to see how the wear on mine will compare.