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well i know the cruise doesn't work anymore and you do not need the clutch depressed to start the car....any idea how much and is and where is the best place to buy it other than the stealership
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with a perfect tune,at the wheel a vq35 should hold about 400-450max and maybe 450-500 on a vq30
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Originally Posted by ghostmax301
(Post 7326659)
with a perfect tune,at the wheel a vq35 should hold about 400-450max and maybe 450-500 on a vq30
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I think a VQ35 will hold over 450whp, a shop i know has what they call a "mule" a stock 350Z with only exhaust, clutch, and a turbo kit and its making 450whp and they said they just turned it down, but its been running like that for over 2 years, they built it to prove VQ35 werent as weak as people think
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Do you have a aftermarket fpr, if so @ what psi?
Reason I ask is I Have a 3.0de to4b with mevi & I max out 290cc topfeeds @ 5-6 psi with a stock pump & fpr. |
Good power on that DEK, making 3.5 numbers, pretty nice. Although not really usable since that power was made from such lean conditions, usually an engine makes the most power right before it is about to blow, so not really practical.
Btw did you use aic96max's entire old piping setup, feed and dp? |
Originally Posted by i30dvr
(Post 7326658)
well i know the cruise doesn't work anymore and you do not need the clutch depressed to start the car....any idea how much and is and where is the best place to buy it other than the stealership
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Originally Posted by Crusher103
(Post 7326681)
I think a VQ35 will hold over 450whp, a shop i know has what they call a "mule" a stock 350Z with only exhaust, clutch, and a turbo kit and its making 450whp and they said they just turned it down, but its been running like that for over 2 years, they built it to prove VQ35 werent as weak as people think
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Originally Posted by sparks03max
(Post 7326248)
You live in Florida, right?
I bet you'd see huge benefits most of the year with water/meth injection. Set it up to only spray under boost and keep the tank topped off and you will be much less likely to detonate. Just throwing ideas for later! |
Originally Posted by streetzlegend
(Post 7326691)
Good power on that DEK, making 3.5 numbers, pretty nice. Although not really usable since that power was made from such lean conditions, usually an engine makes the most power right before it is about to blow, so not really practical.
Btw did you use aic96max's entire old piping setup, feed and dp? What do you mean 3.5 numbers???? made 375 at 8-9 psi from what i understand. which is right at the power levels i made with my dek. 393 at 10 psi. The only thing that he didnt have is meth, which is why detonation hurt the motor. if it would have been the lean condition he would have melted a piston. I detonated at ~7 psi right around 355sh whp, therefore i needed the meth since i didnt have any timing control. Im sure the car made wicked power with full timing at 11 psi , but i would have to guess also detonating, therefore hurting the motor, hence yes, not really usable power:eek: more fun to play at safe power levels for a while than make crazy power for an instance. the detonation will come in at different boost levels for different engines, but its usually at the same hp levels, since its combustion cylinder pressures that will cause it, hence kinda = to hp levels not boost. drop in the eau and control the timing and or do the meth kit and tune , make 4th gear pulls so you can tune for the full boost after some higher load boost creep. Streetz, i believe its my old feed/down pipe modified a bit due to rust and slight clearence issues, i still havent been able to see the car, it snowed this weekend and i didnt leave the crib:mad: |
props to Ghostmax301 for putting this together in no time, really, decided to get boost and took care of business!!!
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damn in my neck of the woods and i didnt even know, hmmmm. can i get a hook up on a cheap motor?.
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lol,ill make feeds and downpiprs for the locals for the L-O.lol.. 500whp on stock 3.5 or not,im building mine.lol.
i modified aics old kit. im running 255lph pump. and a fmu + vafc2 |
yo aaron can u txt me if you can? thanks bro
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Ahhhh ok You have an fmu. Makes more sense now:D
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Originally Posted by ghostmax301
(Post 7326216)
"boost" line on wg gets "T"d into the sidr of the vontroller,the 3rd leg goes to the charge pipe.. vaccum line on wg goes yo yhe bottom of the controller
The closer you have it to the compressor (its best to just tap the compressor housing outlet) the less boost creep you should experience also keep those lines as short as possible. |
Originally Posted by ghostmax301
(Post 7326884)
lol,ill make feeds and downpiprs for the locals for the L-O.lol.. 500whp on stock 3.5 or not,im building mine.lol.
i modified aics old kit. im running 255lph pump. and a fmu + vafc2 hit me up if youre gonna be turning wrenches on weds or thurs, im off and i can roll by and give you a hand. |
Pics or ban!
Just kidding man. Sounds like a badass setup, just need to get it tuned and you'll be good to go. :D |
Well, I went through the 3.0 boosted thing. I was hitting my DEK with 11psi, and same thing happened. It was making crazy power but I never got to dyno it.
Guess this looks familiar http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...blownmtr29.jpg http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1...lownmtr210.jpg http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k1.../blownmtr2.jpg |
^ that happened when I turned down the meth
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Lesson of the day:
Use meth and don't turn it down. ;) |
yes meth and lots of it......I about to reinstall the second nozzle on my 3.5
sucks that the AEM box only starts to spray at 5psi and fullspray at 9psi lowest. |
You guys should jump on the J&S for real. My three O lasted about 2.5 years with alot of abuse and meth, but it could have probably lived alot longer if I had the JS back then, I had it at 15psi on aic96max's old turbo and the car was crazy, but would smoke up everytime i came to a stop from major blowby (probably broken ring lands due to inexperienced tuning).
Now with the JS its already saved my 3.5, had a crack on the meth line and motor wasnt getting any meth. so was running stock timing, no meth and 15psi of boost lol, that knock retard gauge was lighting up like a christmast tree letting me know the timing was being pulled alot for it not to knock. |
Originally Posted by accordingtou
(Post 7326892)
Ahhhh ok You have an fmu. Makes more sense now:D
Originally Posted by AceofSpds
(Post 7327046)
where at on your charge pipe are you running it?
The closer you have it to the compressor (its best to just tap the compressor housing outlet) the less boost creep you should experience also keep those lines as short as possible.
Originally Posted by aic96max
(Post 7327052)
LOCALS??? nice... you know im first in line, been afteryou since you got the hardware:laugh: oh can we make that LOooolowww :goofy:
hit me up if youre gonna be turning wrenches on weds or thurs, im off and i can roll by and give you a hand.
Originally Posted by krazy6
(Post 7327604)
Pics or ban!
Just kidding man. Sounds like a badass setup, just need to get it tuned and you'll be good to go. :D
Originally Posted by secondtonone317
(Post 7327713)
Well, I went through the 3.0 boosted thing. I was hitting my DEK with 11psi, and same thing happened. It was making crazy power but I never got to dyno it.
Originally Posted by streetzlegend
(Post 7327858)
You guys should jump on the J&S for real. My three O lasted about 2.5 years with alot of abuse and meth, but it could have probably lived alot longer if I had the JS back then, I had it at 15psi on aic96max's old turbo and the car was crazy, but would smoke up everytime i came to a stop from major blowby (probably broken ring lands due to inexperienced tuning).
Now with the JS its already saved my 3.5, had a crack on the meth line and motor wasnt getting any meth. so was running stock timing, no meth and 15psi of boost lol, that knock retard gauge was lighting up like a christmast tree letting me know the timing was being pulled alot for it not to knock. |
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Looks sick man! Great job on the kit! :D
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thanks, about 80hrs, lol.. sucks not having the welder at the car,had to take measurements then walk 50ft to the backyard, fab it up.. tried it on....FAIL.lol
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Originally Posted by ghostmax301
(Post 7328257)
thanks, about 80hrs, lol.. sucks not having the welder at the car,had to take measurements then walk 50ft to the backyard, fab it up.. tried it on....FAIL.lol
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Originally Posted by ghostmax301
(Post 7327974)
lol, was an fmu a bad thing?
I went straight off your mods list & I was trying to figure out how you made so much power on 290cc inj's without a fpr & or fmu. I guess you forgot to list the small stuff. That 3" piping looks good though compared to my 2.25-2.5":laugh: |
Originally Posted by accordingtou
(Post 7328454)
That 3" piping looks good though compared to my 2.25-2.5":laugh:
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Originally Posted by ghostmax301
(Post 7328037)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1260304104.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...1260304098.jpg |
Looks beastly man.:thumbsup: But with that boost you are going to want to lose all those hose clamps and get t-bolt clamps, it will stop your pipes from blowing off.
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Originally Posted by maxgtr2000
(Post 7328894)
Looks beastly man.:thumbsup: But with that boost you are going to want to lose all those hose clamps and get t-bolt clamps, it will stop your pipes from blowing off.
though t-bolts are nicer:eek: |
Originally Posted by aic96max
(Post 7329028)
as long as you have a bead on the piping, those hose clamps will be just fine, im running 17 psi on the GN and on the max ran the same type of clamps.
though t-bolts are nicer:eek: Tbolt clamps are sometimes overated, matter of fact iv had the pipe come off on the only location I have a tbolt clamp (no bead), all my piping has regular clamps but beaded everywhere, so i dont have issues. I have had it all the way upto 20psi. |
UPDATE!
I feel like a n00b but, glad i took the safety measure and didnt drive it anymore anyway but, MOTOR ISNT BLOWN!! the oil pump when out causing, timing chain to loose tension, jump a tooth and cause cylinder 3 to fire out of order.. when i tried to blow it, the knock went away, therefore explain it was my timing assembly, when i revved it, it build pressure, stiffed the chain, "rod knock noise" went away.. also explains why my oil psi gauge was acting gay.. wasnt a bad gauge, was actual a bad pump. soooooo im about to replace the biisssh. get my wastegate tubing fixed and go get it tuned on 5psi and 10psi.. i think ill knock back the timing 2* for the 10psi setting |
Saved by the oil pump. Good looking out man! Hope you get that beast up and running!
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nice!!!
wish rods out the block could be a fixable thing, lol |
Originally Posted by ghostmax301
(Post 7331699)
UPDATE!
I feel like a n00b but, glad i took the safety measure and didnt drive it anymore anyway but, MOTOR ISNT BLOWN!! the oil pump when out causing, timing chain to loose tension, jump a tooth and cause cylinder 3 to fire out of order.. when i tried to blow it, the knock went away, therefore explain it was my timing assembly, when i revved it, it build pressure, stiffed the chain, "rod knock noise" went away.. also explains why my oil psi gauge was acting gay.. wasnt a bad gauge, was actual a bad pump. soooooo im about to replace the biisssh. get my wastegate tubing fixed and go get it tuned on 5psi and 10psi.. i think ill knock back the timing 2* for the 10psi setting |
well, i retract that last statement. I got everything out, i have 4chunks of metal in my oil pan and 1 piece on the gurdel, no idea where that pieces are coming from..it has a hash design on all the pieces so might have came from the heads :(.. the motor ran fine though minus cyl # 3 misfire. so i rather not chance it, just gonna get another 3.0 until the 3.5 is built. gay
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Maybe the pieces of metal are bearings? I know my rod bearing ended up in my oil pan melted into a big glob. If the metal is from your heads it is most likely from your valves right? Sucks man, I know how you feel
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