Supercharger installed, couple questions...
 

After a lot of blood and sweat, supercharger is in! But I've been having a couple issues. The first problem is I think due to the belt, only size I could find that would fit was cogged. what's happening is until the car is warm and revved a couple times, the alternator isn't putting out as much juice as before. At idle before the install, the car would be at about 13-14 volts, now its at 12.6ish in drive at a stop. The other issue I'm having, again probably due the belt, is the belt squeals a but when the car is cold above 2k. I'm also only getting about 6-7lbs out of the 10psi pulley. I was expecting about 8 with the underdrive pulley I have on my car.

Car is fun as hell to drive, done some rough tuning, got the AFR at about 11-12:1. Need to drop the base fuel pressure a bit more (at about 43 at idle) and the AFR should move up a bit under boost. Going to play with the gain on my FPR/FMU to richen it up a tad after I drop the base pressure.

But anyway, any thoughts in the voltage issue would be appreciated!

what tensioner did you use and you shoul only see 10psi around 55-6k rpms and pics please lol

I'm using the stock tensioner, I've got Matty's plate, had to grind off a bit for clearance. Pics will be up tomorrow night

you prolly have the wrong belt and its too big. or is the tensioner tightened as much as possible....see if you find some info in this link

http://forums.maxima.org/supercharge...elts-etcc.html

IIRC Underdrive pulleys make alternators put out less voltage so your voltage is about right for that set up.

I'm going to try the next size lower on the belt sometime in the next week or so (taking everything back off sucks balls just to change the belt :mad: ). From what i can tell, the tensioner is either just bottomed out with the belt i have or it's pretty damn close. The belt sizes in that thread aren't accurate considering I have an underdrive pulley. The one I'm running is a 685 length, so i'm going to try and get a 680 full ribbed belt - mine is cogged.

Do you guys think that fact that it's cogged might cause any of the issues i'm having? I'm tempted to just go ahead and put on the 2.87 pulley I have since I'm underdriving the supercharger anyway (probably would see about 9-10psi based on the fact a 10psi pulley is netting 6-7psi at redline). Just don't know if I should until I get some 370's and a Z32/J30 MAF...

nice

From my research I know you can run the 2.87" pulley with stock injectors using the fmu. Getting larger injectors and the maf will only help. I'm going to try stock injectors with my 2.87" pulley.

Get rid of the Underdrive pulley, it's doing nothing for you now (and did next to nothing NA) that you're boosted. It's robbing you of boost, and making getting the right belt more difficult.

Well i decided to just swap on the 2.87 when I changed the belt (670 length was tight fit but it works great). I'm getting about 7-9 psi, hard to tell since i have a mechanical gauge and it bounces around. FP is in the 72-74psi range at 6500, and AFR is in the 11.5-12 range (dips to about 10.8ish when the car downshifts into gear). No more belt squeal now and the voltage issue i was having is gone.

Pic:
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u...gine-Bay-1.jpg

What spark plugs are you using?

Stock ones for right now, my roomate is going to give me his 2 step colder ones here in a couple days

is that right.... :spin:

1 step colder spark plug is what you need, 2 step colder isn't justified/needed.

Well I thought we were..... :noes:

Well, I know 2 step colder isn't needed, but they would have been free since he has no use for them since he's not using the nitrous anymore

setup looking good man, but something tells me your gonna go turbo after maybe a few months to a year

They always do lol.

I don't have the funds to do a turbo setup. Thought about it before I went supercharged, but the costs and downtime for piping fab was the major factor.

actually it cost more to S/C your max, Turbo just takes more time to get all you need. but you will spend money trying to maintain your car. my trans went out (broke the shift fork), control arms, etc...from the look of that kit, which it seems you have matty bracket, i would say you dropped atleast $1800-$2000, which is suffice for a decent turbo kit. but oh well, your boosted, so have fun with it.

I'd look pretty seriously into the DR Mod as well.

So I think I have an injector going out. Car runs fine up until it starts to boost, then the exhaust note changes like one of the cylinders isn't firing. The car downshifted on me last night for no reason, and that's when it started. AFR says its an injector (went leaner than usual) but no codes so far. Going to have a hard time figuring out which one it is...