allblackmax96

iTrader: (4)

hey whats up guys, i just took my new project out for a test ride and it didnt go as i had hoped. for one, after i pulled 2nd gear out i let off and the car stalled. started right back up but i know its gotta be something, anyone every get this, on initial startup it did take a second to start up (it almost stalled out but stay running).

secondly i took an offramp on the freeway(just coasting in gear) and i heard a rotational noise(from the belts, i got real nervous i thought i threw the belt, when i got home i checked everything out and found the the end rib on the belt(closest to the wheel) had torn and the belt had moved over one rib on the a/c compressor and alternator pulley.

during the install i found it almost impossible to tighten the belt tensioner pulley( i put a socket on the nut and used vise grips on it). has anyone else had problems tightening the pulley(maybe i didnt tighten it down straight since i had poor leverage on it???)

the car felt great up top, it really didnt start pulling hard untill 5k. which i know is not normal. anything come to mind to anyone? im not inexperienced when it comes to car,but boost is new to me, so help me out here lol

the info on the car is

96 i30t 5 speed
vortech v2 blower with stillen bracket
cartech fmu
walbro 255lph
3.25 pulley
3" piping
k&n pancake filter
stock maf
stock injectors
gates belt K060705 brand new
tial bov

allblackmax96

iTrader: (4)

so after looking at some old threads i figured i had an alignment issue, i just went out to see if i could see anything and i instantly noticed the tensioner pulley was hitting the alternator main bolt(long through bolt), i was thinking of putting the bolt through the other way(have the threaded end come out toward the transmission instead of facing the tensioner pulley). anybody have to do this?

Mad-MAX_SE

iTrader: (2)

I've had that happen once because the alternator wasn't completely flush with the SC'er bracket.

Are you talking about the bolt in the center of the pulley or the adjustment ****? If it's the center bolt, I have no idea why you had an issue with that. I can loosen/tighten that bolt with the car on the ground with a simple box end wrench (even as low as I am...). If it is the other one, I suggest a long extension to a swivel connector to a short extension to a deep well socket. The belt can get in the way some (and the Cam POS), but that's really only an issue with larger pullies (>3.25).

You really should only start feeling the "surge" with a SC'er in the upper RPM's (4-5k ish depending on the IM setup). If you had a MEVI or 00vi, you might experience it a bit earlier. Do you have a wideband or any other AFR monitoring device? If so, how are you AFR's looking through the RPM range? It might explain the surge if you're really rich in the midrange and it's leaning out in the upper rpm's. With stock MAF and injectors at 10psi, you might be getting close to the maximum they can handle so a top lean condition is likely with a rich midrange (thanks to the FMU - depending on how it's set up). It might also explain your random stalling (if the FP is too high and you're really rich the car can stall when it drops RPM rapidly - my room mates car did this untill we adjusted his FP a bit on his 3.5...)

Need more info.... Good luck with the project car

Nozama

iTrader: (1)

The other question is, are you sure you have the right belt size, sounds like your tensioner may be all the way out and you're possibly bending the tensioner adjustment bolt.

If the belt size is wrong you'll never get it tight, you'll see the belt jumping and you'll come into the power late and see an early cutoff due to slippage.

allblackmax96

iTrader: (4)

yeah the belt is perfect fit, and the tensioners not maxed out either

well the late power could be due to the fact that my knock sensor doesnt even give a reading. but prob the slippage too.

i ended up cut the end off the stock alt threw-bolt and it solved that problem, i put the new belt on, started it up, and then checked it, now instead of coming off the a/c compressor and alternator, its just the alternator. AND

when i put the belt on, i paid close attention to where the belt was on the pulleys. after startup, the tensioner was normal and btw a nightmare to tighten up the pulley(i used my serp belt tool and pryed the engine away from the frame and slipped it in, worked great). i now know i never fully tighten the tensioner pulley the first time(didnt have the tool, made do with vise grips on a 14mm socket).

but i did notice that the belt moved on the idler pulley, it was all the way on the inside of the pulley(not centered). after startup i noticed it moved to the middle of the idler, and the belt had jumped a rib on the alternator only.

is this what everyone means when the use washers to shim the plate from the cover? the only bolt i dont have is the inner standoff bolt(i used a long bolt with washers for the other bolt(16 on the stillen layout). should i put washers on every spot? or just the top bolts? help!! lol

Mad-MAX_SE

iTrader: (2)

What exactly do you mean by cutting the end of the alt through-bolt? Also, i'm not quite sure, but are you positive you have the long bolt for the alternator on correctly? As in, the head of the bolt to the header/tranny side of the alternator? That is how it is supposed to be, not the other way around (which is part of the reason changing the alternators on these cars sucks)...

Again, I have absolutely no idea why you are having such a hard time with your idler/tensioner pulley. You don't need a serpentine belt tool, you don't need to pry the motor away from the frame for ANY reason, and it is by no means a nightmare to loosen/tighten. These are not like domestic's that have auto-tightening tensioners that require quite a bit of force even with a breaker bar to loosen enough...

For the tensioner/idler pulley, all you do is loosen the center nut on the pulley like 1/2 turn with a 14mm box end wrench so it releases tension on the belt enough to move freely up and down. Then you can easily slip the belt on/off the pulleys. Then to put back on the belt, all you do is use the top adjustment rod to get the desired tightness (where you can turn the belt approximately 90* and no more) and then re-tighten the center nut on the pulley to lock it into that position (and loosen the adjustment rod so there is no tension on it). This takes at most 5 minutes. If you are not able to loosen/tighten the nut with a standard length 14mm wrench, you're over-tightening that nut far too much or doing something wrong. Also, if you cannot fairly easily slip the belt around the pulleys and need a tool to do so, then you have too short of a belt.

When you say idler pulley in this last part, you're referring to the one on the supercharger plate right? If so, make sure you have the pulley installed correctly (and not backwards as it will affect the spacing on the bracket). I had mine installed backwards the first time i put in my supercharger (I didn't have any instructions for the plate kit i was using from Matty)

As far as shimming goes, it shouldn't be necessary. And if the bolt you are referring to is the one that bolts into the center of the supercharger, don't worry about that one, I cut my post off to ensure adequate clearance for my belt when I had a 2.87 on my 3.0, since my plate's posts were slightly misaligned. My best guess would be to check the orientation of the idler pulley to make sure it's right side out and if necessary add a couple shims to that instead of the entire plate (if that is the only thing out of alignment).

allblackmax96

iTrader: (4)

the bolt your talking about on the alternator is installed correctly, but the threaded end stuck out too far once tighten and hit the tensioner pulley causing it to become crooked, the bolt actually had a grove in it from the pulley before i cut the end off.

im having no trouble adjusting tension on the belt, i think your misunderingstand me. the tensioner pulley that came with the kit is wider than the belt, causing it to stick out toward the fender more making it very hard to get a tool in there, should i go back to the stock tensioner pulley, but keep the bracket from stillen?

the idler pulley on the bracket yes, this kit was used when i got it and eseque said it worked fine for him, any pics of correctly installed pulley? its a toyota pulley...

i was looking a maxi-overdoses old thread and he mention if the belts coming off toward the fender you need to shim the supercharger pulley with a washer to line it up. i can see that the belt isnt straight by looking up from underneath(with good tension on the belt), it seems the supercharger pulley is more toward the fender than the other pulleys. heres a pic from underneath, sorry for poor quality

allblackmax96

iTrader: (4)

thats what happened after i ran it for 30 seconds and shut it off, seems to be pulling away from the engine


and you cant put the alternator bolt through the wrong way, unless you drop the engine.

Mad-MAX_SE

iTrader: (2)

Based on what I can see, it almost looks like the idler pulley is slightly tilted upward (away from the camera). If you look at it, the pulley seems to be feeding the belt in a different plane. The idler pulley on my plate has rails which helps in keeping things aligned.

Any chance you could use a straight edge along the faces of the pulleys? (like a tape measure, thin ruler, etc..)