Turbo Failure, its done!
 

So The turbo gave up few weeks ago because I did not feed oil to it (dont ask... stupid mistake), I bought a rebuild kit, and rebuilt it myself, had it balanced by a well known shop. Put it on today, As soon as I would go into boost I could hear a humming sound from the turbo, then shortly it started to sound like a dremel. I looked at the turbo, and its done. The compressor wheel, was scraping the housing and actually took shape of the housing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uE1D1p-a3iw

Reasons the turbo failed, I think it was a bent shaft, its the only thing that makes sense. But wouldnt the shop have noticed it when they balanced it? who knows.

Now i need a turbo, realistically can a 500HP capable turbo be purchased for less than $450?

Well its gonna be one huge holset.

What's his face had a 6-700hp turbo FS some time back i believe it was a holset H3TB or something of that nature its worth looking into.

Well my goal is to get another HX40, They are more than capable for 500HP. But I cant find any good looking used ones. I do see an ebay one by "JM Turbo" they give 1yr warranty, they order the parts overseas and build it in California. Dont konw if I should do that, (kevlo has one of these). They go for $380.
HX40PRO are hard to come by.

you can get a master power t61 for $669 on ebay

Masterpower warranty is crap, their rebuild kit cost like 150 and they don't respond the emails even from their own reps. Ask me how I know

Yeah, I am not going to ditch over 500 for a turbo. My $300 Holset was very reliable and the only reason it failed was because of me (bad combination of fittings caused zero oil flow to it).

Just wait till you find a holset hx40, I wouldn't waste my time with that other crap. Get a hx35 if you can't wait they are also good for 500 hp iirc.

i've had good experience with MP T70s. never looked into rebuilding one though because i've never had one fail.

The MP turbo itself was fine. What I had a problem with was their warranty policy, communication and response time. It took two weeks before they figured out my turbo was inhouse, another three weeks before MP replied to the techs email to approve or decline the repairs. Which they declined and wanted to charge me 450 for a basic rebuild, I was advised no parts were damaged.

that sucks

Got another 60mm HX40 and comes with a 16cm^2 housing, yall think I should use my Bullseye .70AR BEP housing, or keep the 16cm on there as it would be pretty close to the bullseye?

The 16cm it comes Divided t3, while the Bullseye is undivided t3.

EDIT: I just read the 16cm housing is equivalent to more than .85AR.
So I may just do a quick swap of housings and put the .70AR in there for quick spool. Hopefully the .70 dont be a choke point, i doubt it. Not for 500hp anyway

it might be I think a .70 t3 ar is = .58 t4 ar and I am pretty sure anything under .68 t4 is pushing it at the 500-550hp power level. Remember eventhou it's a balancing act you still have to get the exhaust out

That's interesting, is this assumption, or factual?
I will most likely be spraying as well (50) so I need a good exhaust flow. How can I determine if the .70ar t3 will be an issue?

Godspeed on returning to boost and keep up the good work. :thumbsup:

well for a fact a t3 .84 is pretty equal to a t4 .68 and a the inlet on a t3 flange is almost exactly the same as a 2.25inch exhaust pipe. A t4 is almost equal to 2.5inches now you still have calculate the internal volume of the housing but you get the idea. If you have a section of 2.25 exhaust pipe in your setup it still possible to make 500hp just harder if you had 2.5 or 3inch.

To see if the housing will be a bottle neck you can either measure the egt's or back pressure pre and post turbo or calculate the volume of the housing and see if your engine at 6500 rpms flow enough exhaust to max it out. If you don't feel like doing that use the volume of a 2.25 inch pipe.

I think at 350-400hp that housing is fine but at 500-550hp your really pushing it. A compromise would be a t3 .84

Thank you for the information, very useful.
My exhaust piping is 2.5", I believe the ypipe is 2"(or 2.25) per leg, then joins to 2.5" all the way back and then into the turbo's t3 flange.

I am going to stick with the 16cm housing, it comes with an internal WG, so I am going to leave that WG unplugged to keep it closed (I dont wanna weld it since it has warranty). I also have the t3 18cm housing from the other hx40 I have which is already welded, but that's kinda laggy. (18cm i hear is over 1.00AR).

I might sell the Bullseye .70 BEP housing, it is like Gold to the DSM guys lol so can probably get $200 out of it.

I'll loan you an electric one if you'd like to hold you over, good for over 1kbhp :wall:

You'll need to drill a hole in the dp flange, tap it then put a set screw in there to hold the flap shut. The pressure from the exhaust will push it open if its not welded or something.

Thanks for the tip, I got the new turbo, the 16cm divided housing it comes with looks way smaller than the bullseye .70 I have, so I am going to put in that bullseye and see how much power I can get out of it. I will probably put the big 18cm housing later to further test, I will be spraying so the 18cm housing might be better.

The 16cm housing could look smaller but there maybe less material inside. You could always fill them both with sand to see which one has the greater volume.

Hey, if you're gonna spray, NX has a controller that can monitor boost pressure and adjust the spray automatically. Link:

http://www.nitrousexpress.com/produc...ls.php?id=1607

Thanks Harold, but I am keeping things simple. I am going to be spraying a 50 dry shot, in addition to the meth/water. It is just enough to wake up the car from a launch, and also add near 5-800hp ontop of the boost.

hmm im not sure the housing will limit whp precisely, bc i have seen 2 .58 t4's on a 2jz make 1300 whp, nice flowing wheel will help

also , i think youre way too worried about the housings limiting factors for now. the .70 should do it.i really think that its not too much dough, and at your level, a well made forward feedpipe will help, 2.25 primaries,to 2.5, solid front mount for space, would really help. if you dont like it, im sure you can sell it (:

3.0 vs 3.5, inline 6 vs v6, better flowing hotside and I and pretty turbo too kinda hard to compare. Also are you saying it was a twin or single setup if single link please.

twin turbo supra, no link, saw it in person, each turbo supported 650 whp, on .58 t4 housings. was just saying, turbine housing specs wont really be the only factor. you can stuff a big turbine in a small housing as in a custom turbo to tweak your setup

Yeah alot of sneeky DSM and subie guys here port the crap of out the exhaust housing and put larger wheels in the stock turbo

I really dont see how I would benefit from a forward feed pipe, I am positive I wont gain anything out of it. Maybe sooner spool, but I already get early spool with this 70 housing.

I went with the 70ar housing, its installed on the car right now. I just need to get my damn battery charged. Looks like the new Diehard I got is no good.

When you planning to hit the track

I think hes just a Street Legend. Not a Track Legend, get it HA!. Knee Slapper :lolrun::mrgone:

lol, honestly I have never gone alot to the track because it was my daily driver. Although I know the car is reliable and can hold its own, things still happen,. Now that it is no longer a daily driver, I can take it to the track more often.

Before I go to the track I have to install the 350z MREV2 manifold, then dyno to see where the turbo runs out of breath. Hoping to get 450.

I would be more worried about the shrapnel you just fed into your engine than I would be worrying about replacing the turbo. But that's just me...

If you look at the vid, you can see no pieces actually came off the wheel, it scuffed it

New turbo is on, car pulls HARD! AND.... new project almost done:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B...IMAG0513-1.jpg
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-x...4/IMAG0511.jpg

track track track... lets roll!!!! weds after work son!! you run 11s and me 13s :D

I gotta figure out what to do with the battery. gotta relocate it, so the pipe can go into the TB smoothly without an uber sharp turn.

I wanna see that... :D

You could cut of the straight pipe from the intake to tb and have a 45 degree pipe welded in it's place

I probably wont even need welding done. Today I bent the battery tray at the corner where the pipe comes up at, now I have alot more space, the pipe can be pretty much right on the battery. I also moved the positive connector so it could be infront of the battery and not the side. All this gained me about 2 inches of space or more(between TB and pipe). So I will definitely be able to make a 90 turn right into the TB. Just cut to distance and have the shop do the mandrel turn. Will prob do this on Sat morning.

Cool