Rich condition...All of a sudden
 

96', V2 T-Trim, Front Mount, 555cc, Greddy EU, Z32 MAF....Much more

Not sure what the problem is here. I figured I would come on here and see what you guys think. Not running the car all the much any more so it doesnt see much use. I took out the car today and it is doing this thing where all the sudden it will totally RICH out and fall on its face. Not even close to running, stalls out. It will bog down and be very difficult to keep running, then all the sudden be fine again. Went out on the highway, down the highway, got into some traffic and it did it. Fell right on its face RICH, and stalled out. Tried to get it running, really difficult to get running. Im really not sure of the issue. It only happens once the car is warmed up and I checked the EU and everything seems ok, MAF responding like it should. When the rich problem happens Im really not sure what to look out for when Im datalogging, its hard enough to keep the car running. Im thinking maybe stuck injector ? (my 555's are practically new) MAF going bad ? Fuel pressure regulator on its way out ?

Another thing to keep in mind is I had this issue not to long ago, but way way worse. Worse to the point of spitting fuel out of the exhaust. Well I cleaned off the sensor that reads the flywheel, and it was a totally different car. Started it in my driveway, ran perfect. This afternoon I took that sensor off, and cleaned it but it wasnt even that dirty. A few specs of dirt. Could you maybe thing that sensor is going ?

Ill see how it acts from now on but Im really scratching my head on this one. Runs fine, fine, then falls right on its face.

Thanks guys, your help is always appreciated.

-matt

When was the last time you checked your injector O rings?
I had a similiar problem a while back, couldnt figure out why it was going so rich all of a sudden, pulled a plug and it was pretty saturated. Pulled an injector and the little O ring was deterioated, yanked out another and it was the same way. Only two of them were that way but I replaced all of them.

I haven't. Been in there since I put the 555's in. What would cause them to all of the sudden deteriorate ? How often was your car going super rich ?

Matt

Same with me, they were new when I dropped in my 555's, not sure what caused them to deteriorate. I mean, they are rubber and cant last forever I guess.
Car would drive fine, then go crazy rich and drive ok later. I guess the ECU was trying to make corrections, Im not sure but it was obviously not running right so I knew something was up.

Did u replace both upper and lower ? Last time I pulled the plugs the back center one was wet

I'm guessing next step is pulling the upper and getting new o-rings

Matt

Check your spark plugs.

This started happening to me as well, I am not driving the max very often, once every other weekend or so, but the last few times iv driven it at idle it gets rich to the point it wants to die. I even hooked up the o2's so it could correct itself and even then it still drops to 10s and 9's as it wants to turn off, when driving and not in idle its fine.

I do have a leaking injector oring. But to me, it does not make any sense, I dont think the richness is from leaky oring, why would it run rich in a vac leak? it should be the other way around, even then I dont have a MAF so if i had a vac leak it would just rev higher.

I do however have beat up spark plugs, iv had them in there for a while after a lot of WOT abuse at higher boost. Maybe i'll change that.

Have you tried unplugging your PRIMARY o2s? That forces the ECU in open loop and basically behave statically without the ECU adjusting anything at all. That enables you to tune all throughout the rpm range at all throttle positions.

If you are referring to me, yes, that's why I mentioned that I hooked up the o2s. I always run with o2s discontented, unless I'm going for a long drive.

Let me know if you need help working on it or replacing the injectors.

what are you tuning with?

I even take raod trips with it disconnected. I use the EMU and have perfect 14.7 when idling and cruising at 60-80

I too have pretty stoich afr without o2. But when it was daily I found that having the o2 was slightly better on gas for my 40mile drives.

To give an update matty, in my case, it was not the injector orings, i have other issues. I thought it went away but when I put it in gear, it just wanted to turn off (9s AFR), I messed with the v reading of the tps, and the car suddenly started revving high, like 1500, i put the voltage back to how it was before, and it still rev's high. I think something is up with the ECU or a sensor is not functioning as it should. Or another Vac leak causing all this (i do not have a MAF, so a vac leak is like opening the throttle).

Its amazing. It doesnt do it for a really long time and then all of the sudden acts up. I clean that bell housing sensor that reads the flywheel, and it completely acts normal and no longer rich. The rich condition makes the car UN driveable but there is no way I am cleaning this sensor every few hundred miles.

I have always ran with my 02's hooked up. I should try them disconnected >??

Im really at a loss of what to do. I NEVER had to clean that sensor for the car to drive normal but It seems nothing else is working.

-matt

you can try running them disconnected. That will prevent the ecu trying to counteract all your tuning.

If your sensor is dirty every time you clean it then that sounds like your clutch is causing the sensor dirt and if not dirty all the time its your EU that's just what they do. Sometimes they just flood the engine with gas for no reason. Just reset your EU and program it again

Went out today with it. Cold start is fine and to work is a short commute it didn't flood. Just took it on about a 12 mile drive, let it warm up, and it goes right to rich !! And turns off. This is with a clean sensor so something is definitely wrong. How do I reset the EU before I buy washers

Matt

Just got back from the same 12 mile drive and it was perfectly normal the entire drive. Got home, idled in my driveway, all fine. Im wondering maybe that sensor is going bad and causing it to wig out every once and a while. I really dont know what to do. Im gonna go fish around my garage to see if I have another one of those lieing around I can pop in.

-matt

Out with it today, obviously I dont drive it a lot cause of this issue, cruizing at 40ish 4th or 5th gear, instantly to 9's, wanted to shut off. Kept it going, first stop light half a block, shut off. Got it going, did it again. This is AFTER the car is warm and driving around. Very strange.

I limped it home and Im gonng pull the plugs tomorrow. That should tell me a little more on what cyl is rich.

-matt

Could a faulty ECTS be causing something like this ??

-matt

how does it behave when you reset the ecu? by leaving the battery unplugged overnight?

I still think the ECU uses stock pulse widths with your aftermarket injectors during closed loop and thus screws your AFR

No change. I have been fine all this time with the EU and this setup. Boosts fine, cold start ok, driving around fine, trips with the car, no issue.

I have a feeling that the bell housing sensor that reads the flywheel, went bad. I put a different one on, I had laying around, so we'll see.

Haven't had a ton of time to focus on the car.

I did order a new ECTS sensor and a new Crank sensor for the bell housing. If those two dont fix the problem, Im going to order a replacement MAF. And if that doesn't do it, I will pulling the manifold and replacing the injector rubber.

I had the car out the other day, immediately when it got to the center of the guage, warm, it cut out. Right to 9's and turned off. Several times just to get home and parked it. Next day, started right up and pulled into the garage. Very strange

-matt

Ran the car today in the garage after replacing the ECTS. Car started right up like always. Right right when it got warm, car shut off while hooked up to the emanage. How much Volts is normal from the MAF?
I then did that a few times (let it rich//Die). I then pulled the plugs and none of them were wet which leads me to believe its not the O-Rings.

Any advise from here ?

MAF ? Crank sensor ?
Starting it 100% perfect when the car is cold.

-matt

I think around +/-1 volt is what I get on my stock maf at idle. Is there a cel? My car started idling rough and I got a front o2 sensor code. Can you check the continuity from the ects wire to the ecu to see if there is a break in it? Only thing I can think of next is swap out the ecu or emanage and see if something changes. If you have the ultimate I would double check all the settings and wiring.

What's the timing doing during this?

Also leaking injector orings are unlikely to read rich on a Wideband because the fuel wont be injected as a mist, thusly is unlikely to actually combust so it probably wont read on the wideband. that said, this is likely engine control/sensor related or overfuelling nozzle.

Well I got a new Z32 MAF, well not new but off eBay, and put it in last week. I started it in the garage and it started doing the rich thing, right down 9's when the car just began to warm up, sputtering, stalling. Bad. I logged the entire time but it shuts off so fast it's hard to grab anything. Put in the new MAF and it slowly started to get better, evened out on the idle, ran better. Ran it for about 20 min no problems.
Since then I had it unplugged from the battery. Bought a new battery and was able to take it for a ride today. Few miles from the house, cruising at around 35-40 running a bit rich. Few more miles after warmed up and stopped it SHUT off!!! Oh man. Pulled into a post office. Let it sit a few and got it home. The ride home was perfect, about 10 miles. Once I got home I ran the car in my driveway for about 20 miles, perfect. No idea if the original issue is fixed or not yet. Maybe it was a bug working its way out. I will keep you guys posted

Thanks for the help guys
Matt

Could this be a TPS issue ?

Did you change any settings in your Ultimate? YOu said is shuts off as soon as it switched over? Thats odd to me. Also, the MAF wiring could be bad. Did you solder or crimp?

Nothing has been changed drastically Maf wiring has not changed and it all soldered and taped up well

Yesterday may have just been my ecu getting used to the emu since it has been unplugged for about a month.

Matt

The way you described it leads me to believe that is the case. Check the settings? You said it was just sitting? Hopefully inside?

Yes I inside my garage

New battery and back in business. I think there hasn't been enough miles on since I hooked up the new battery to know if its fixed yet or not. I have the new maf I there too which I believe was the original problem from back in may

Matt

Im still waiting to put my Z32 MAF on and I know I wll run into a few issues as well

Either way I gotta start putting more miles on the car. I will keep posted on here how it goes

Matt

Hope the maf was the issue..

:sprint:

Well It seems like the car is back to normal after the new Z32 MAF was installed. All I have to do it put a new set of plugs in and im set.
I changed the fuel infested oil the other day and drove it around a bit. Cruizing, its hanging in the 12's still but I think It just needs a tweak in the emanage. Idles good and no more shutting off.

Nice, glad to hear. I thought you were going to get rid of the car the way things were going.

good deal. A new MAF always seems to make a difference lol