4th gen dek turbo setup/ questions
 

Hey guys ive been at school practically restoring my car as a daily driver, im ready to go boost next week and have a few questions, heres my current situation.


Already installed in car:
FMIC
apexi safc2
apexi pen style turbo timer
electronic oil pressure guage
Aem wideband
auto meter boost guage
Newly rebuilt 5 speed tranny
Exedy stage 2 3puck/stock flywheel

Parts that i have and will go in next week:
HX35 rebuilt 200 miles ago
JWT ECU remapped for my setup
Doechwerks (sp) (600cc) injectors
2.5"feed pipe, 3" down pipe w/ WB bung
half size alm rad/ slim fan
Z32 MAF
255 Fuel pump
1:1 fpr
tial wastegate 38 mm 15 lb spring
turbo xs bov
stillen sandwich plate for feedpipe and oil pressure sender for my guage
tapped lower oil pan for oil return
Blox manual boost controller


QUESTIONS:


I am going to buy the spark plugs this weekend and plan on going 2 steps colder, sound good enough? VIA dynomagic.com

as far as the electronic oil pressure gauge, is there an easier way than the sandwhich plate because the sending unit is pipe threat and the sandwich plate is not, ill probably just have to get an adapter but just thought i would ask.

and the person i got this setup off of, (i30drivr) at first he had over heating issues so he removed the main thermostat,and i beleive ended up taking both out and ran just under normal temp all the time, never over heated after that. Would you guys reccomend taking out both thermostats as long as i give her time to warm up sufficiantly in the cold mornings. I will be living in VA beach in september for now on so im not too worried about cold starts as much as before.

lastly, wiring up the cooling fan, should i wire it up with a switch to the dash or just tap to the oem harness?

any help is greatly appreciated. im sure ill have more questions soon thanks!
Tim

this is what I used for the oil feed

http://www.stealthmodeperformance.co...blockfit.shtml

Did u put that between the block and OEM sending unit? Or on the sandwich plate?

you screw it into the block and the sending unit and oil feed fitting into the tee

Only take out the tstat that is on the driver side of the car, a buddy of mine had overheating issue on his 400whp DEK and we just removed that tstat near the TB on driver side, done deal. fixed it.

As for spark plugs, go with 1 step colder, 2step colder is usually for nitrous application, for turbo 1step colder is ideal. which is brk6e

Ok, lower intake tstat it ..now, since I'll still have a tstat, would wiring the slim fan to the driver side cooling fan or should I wire independently too the dash?

Streetzlegend, do you agree with dynomagic as far as spark gap is concerned? Oem.0433", then- .004 for every 50 hp over stock? If so, when would I adjust the gap? Take a guess on what i plan to make and adjust gap or tune first, see my numbers, then adjust gap? The help is appreciated guys thanks alot

I'm lazy and would not what to bother with a switch so I'd said splice it into the stock harness and let the ecu handle turning it on and off

as for plug gap, I would start at .035 and adjust from there

Sounds like a plan, ide like to get some more feedback, so bump

Exactly, start at .034/35 do some pulls and if its pulls fine try opening it up a bit. Continue to do so until you experience blow out. If at .034/35 has signs of blowout, drop the gap.

Uh oh, i feel like a newb again...blowout being? And how will i see it?

Think of blowing out a candle, but a spark instead.

As for gap, based on HLH's site and my power approximately it makes sense, in my case it would prob be around .028 gap. for your power .035 should be fine. Now when you start using meth/water injection, nitrous, then things get complicated and you have to use smaller gap to prevent blowouts. Straight up boost, go .035

My slim fans are wired right into stock harness and ECU handles control of the fans depending on temps.

As for MY spark plug gap on 8psi is .033.

Ok .035 sound like a good starting point, thanks i plan on 9 lbs, my goal is like 350 . My plan with this was to have a reliable fast max, nothing crazy....yet. But i still want my dad to be able to get in and take her to work haha...he won't but you get the idea. So you guys think i should be ok if i remove the mid engine thermostat, and run a half radiator and slim fan to the oem harness? That's what i would prefer to do.

With my tuning setup, idk what JWT does for timing on the 93 octane setup, what do you guys recommend for adjusting timing ...obviously i don't have the emanage ultimate...our i wouldn't be asking thus question...

Yeah it isnt a big deal if you make the gap a little smaller. i was running .036 when i was boosted.

one thing i never understood was the whole "blowout" thing. all of the valves are closed when the spark is happening so how could it blow out? i think its the denser fuel mixture that actually messes it up. either way, you'll deff know if it's happening.

yea, i have access to a dyno daily until the 17th so ill make sure to keep an eye on that. should be fun...

Another build hate looking at these... Should have boosted my turd

Haha yes you should have...without some sort of FI, the max is not complete lol

:sprint:

K guys have another question, since i couldn't get Ahold of the fuel rail adaptor quick enough, How do you recommend running an afpr with stock fpr's? I've heard of gutting? Our just not applying vaccume to them but will that keep then open or closed? Need help thanks

Depending on what size injectors you have and what your tuning with just install the injectors and leave in the stock fpr till the adapter comes in, you can boost it without a afpr.

Its always good ot have an adjustable one just in case, since adding the walbro 255 + bigger injectors will provides a bit more fuel than stock when idle and cruising. I have a nismo afpr which looks like a stock one but has a nut on it, iv had it for probably 5-6 years, still works.

not saying don't get one, just that if it's only going to be a few days in the mail fuk it install the bish later

I have and will run the afpr, ill run oem fpr's until i get the adapter,

I need the safc2 in and out settings for a z32 maf on 4th gen asap plz

Do a quick search, there's a few threads discussing the settings.

google: z32 maf safc2 settings site:maxima.org

Problem...no start after a few pulls on the dyno..0 boost. Pulled the plugs and don't look fouled or smell like fuel. Happened yesterday too but she's started with in a couple min, ima let her cool down for like an hour and try again. Any recommendations? Safc for z32 is 4in 4out, no other adjustments otherwise, jwt ecu doin the work for now till i turn the boost up and fine tune at like 3lbs and go up from there.

Bump....i need to tune her, i don't like this lean condition

What's the a/f, vac at idle, fuel psi at idle and wot

Idle a/f is like 15 through 17, vacuum is like 20, fp is like 50 psi, still have stock fpr on rails, idk what it is at wot under boost yet

was the ecu already tuned for a z32 maf

you check for vac leaks

No leaks, and yes for z32 maf, 600cc injectors, 7200 rev cut ...was doing fuel today and we came upon realizing my wastegate is not opening so tomorrow were cleaning and inspecting the boost controller and wastegate

hmm.....randomly looked through my turbo timer and realized im not getting any o2 voltage...usually jumping around .40-.6 ish/ but now im getting .01... so i pulled over just to make sure they were plugged in and they were. funny thing is, when i start the car, they work...then they just basically count down to .01 within 15 sec. any ideas? heres my shopping cart to rule out any issues i may have right now:

--7lb wg spring because i have a 14 in now and i will never open that.

--fuel rail adapter, i custom made one but i want both to have them...unless i really only need one but i cant get a deffinate answer from anyone and how to properly run the afpr as far as hoses are concerned, high side, low side etc...

--3'' mandrel bent exhaust w/ 18" resonator and vibrant muffler

Bump on these questions, need advise, but will get back to you when i put new parts on

double check the safc wiring, connections, along with the z32 maf connections

try running off the stock ecu

I initially had a 8lb spring but traded it out for a 5lb with a manual bc, it seems wg start cracking around half the rated spring pressure so around 7 psi a 14lb spring should be leaking off some boost. I think 8 would be perfect though. I went to find my 8 the other day to put back on but can't find it right now. I have the controller set so I can hit 8-10 no problems. On the afpr when I had one it was picky and it always ran rich in boost but the connections are usually side input, bottom output/return.

what would putting a stock ecu back in do for me? that's how I have my afpr set up on the return side of the system once I get both adapters on it should be good to go...well see

back in the day, i used an adapter on the rear rail and ran that to the afpr. left the front oem unit on and i never had a problem. prob be best to remove it though if you get both adapters.

im lazy, so i would go with a .030-.032 gap and leave it be,

since you got the kit from i30drvr,,, i suggest that you get the best fan that will fit there with that half size radiator, put in a 350z main thermostat, gut the one on the intake, order a 40 amp quality relay kit for the fan, make sure the fan has a complete shroud, and it not just one round fan on a square radiator. a shroud makes a big difference when pulling air to make the most out of your little radiator. I would wire it so the stock sensor /ecu triggers the relay. if you have some tools and can make it happen, i would also make a shroud/air venting system to prevent air from going around the radiator or tunneling air into the radiator if you will. maximizing air flow/cooling of that half sized radiator. this will help force air through the radiator. if you do ac, it will be even more important as the condenser get hot.

50 psi of fuel at idle seems like way much!

if you are running a 93 pump gas cookie cutter computer youre probable gonna need 13+ psi for some nice power.

You had me until the cookie cutter analogy...but overheating hasn been an issue yet i can deal with that after she runs right. Gap is .032, i always run 93 but im only lookin for a fun RELIABLE car, not 14lbs risking blowing her up every time i get on it lol.