clint240sx

iTrader: (2)

Looking into buying this kit (before you say anything, I've already fallen in love with my original motor, not going to vq35...lol) So I plan to stick with my build that I have, looking into getting the build kit for my Nissan (has a 60 trim turbo, planning on doing 12 PSI with this kit...) (#12 in link)

http://www.importperformanceparts.ne...ek-nissan.html

Has anybody looked into something like this?? If I go with this setup should I look into rods as well??? or are the stock ones built to handle higher output??

t6378tp

iTrader: (69)

you don't need pistons and rods for 12psi with a good tune. your trans will break before the trans

vipervadim

iTrader: (10)

you CAN build a decent 3.5L for that.

in all likelihood your stock 3.0 oil pump will blow up before the transmission LOL


if it were me sticking with a 3.0 build... I would:

1. 3.5 rev up oil pump - a must for vq3x.
2. 3.5 rev up cams re-timed with adapters for 3deg of overlap (10.5mm lift vs 9)
3. MLS head gasket with ARP headstuds (can do 3.5HR HG with 3.5HR headstuds if $$$) can do ARP main bolts too
4. 3.5HR valve springs, rev up retainers, double shimmed
5. re-hone stock block and re-ring the stock pistons for boost tolerances

6. option you might want to consider.. there's a JDM vq30det motor. it comes with better flowing heads, lower comp pistons, rods, crank etc.
you can reuse the internals and heads dropping them into YOUR fwd stock block (vq30det is a rwd block so even though you can fit it into the car [been done] you will lose a lot of stock accessories a/c ps and hood will not sit right due to manifold etc)

best pics of motor teardown I could find from a silvia vq30det swap page -
http://zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=492211

7. injectors + tuning = no matter what mods/build you do this should be your biggest concentration. without a proper tune - A/F ratio, ign timing + knock you will not get the best out of any build/setup.

if you want to get the best out of a 3.0L you still have to use some 3.5L parts..

hope this helps..


and what is this bs 12psi talk..

12psi from a gt35r vs 12psi from a t25 are two VERY different power numbers.. talk HP so everyone is on the same scale.

clint240sx

iTrader: (2)

Well options 1-5 seem nice, is the oil pump a direct fit?? or is fabrication needed??
(I could search the forum, but seems like you would know )
I'm already set on keeping my trusted vq30de, but I wanted to upgade the rings and pistons, hence the reason I saw this kit, I have never replaced my head gasket so I was also glad this kit came with it. and the turbo I have is a Precision 5931E MFS, saw the ARP kit for $188. ARP 202-4701, this says it fits, but is for the vq35, can somebody advise?

clint240sx

iTrader: (2)

What's ya'lls opinion on these??
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-202-4701...#ht_1404wt_908

vipervadim

iTrader: (10)

rev-up oil pump is a direct fit.

you can use those ARP headstuds (I have - in VQ30s and VQ35s)

BUT.. you can also save $$ by using stock VQ35HR headstuds and stock HR headgaskets. (done that too - new HR studs and HG from nissan come out to price of ARP studs+ a bit more)


check out this HR HG cooling mod for reference:

http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticl...st-3-Days.aspx


If you need rev-up cams, pm me, I know someone on here with a set available.

tOpDoLLa

Great info Viper. Answered a lot of questions for me too. Clint, I saw that kit a couple days ago and was thinking the same thing u were. Just bought another max and intend on building the 3.0 with a S/C.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

In all honesty i have never seen a VQ oil pump fail. Transmissions are a completely different story. Secondtonone(rip) is the only person i have seen actually window a 3.0, but he boost spiked to like 18psi or something of nature.

3.5>3.0 though. The 3.0 might be slightly stronger but how much it takes to get a 3.0 to make the power a 3.5 easily achieves 400whp 3.5s are relatively a common sight on here with little to no issues on boost. 3.0s.....well yea. The main problem with any VQ is the rods the pistons would be a concern after the rods. But unless you are looking for figures of 500whp and more(which honestly you shouldnt) you should only need upgraded head studs and rod/main bolts. With a good tune you should be set for a long time with no problems.

But if i were in the OP shoes looking in at boost, if you dont have top feed injectors get them. Move to a 00vi or 02VI if you dont already have one, contact Ceffy(moncefA33) for injectors he sells PnP Bosch 650CCs for pennies really. Those will be all you need for most reasonable HP figures. get something to tune on. FIC or Emanage(unfortunately 99s do not have nistune support otherwise i would suggest it plus an emanage)

If you are not finished with bolt ons finish those first THEN come back to talk about boost. Because 60 trim tells us nothing except you dont full understand turbo sizing yet. As viper was saying a 60 trim T25 at 12psi and a 60trim GT35 at 12psi are going to produce massively different HP numbers.

tOpDoLLa

Who makes fuel components for the vq30?

clint240sx

iTrader: (2)

To help you clarify, refer to post #4 in this thread. I notated the turbo I have, if you want the specs, look it up. My signature states most of the parts I'm currently using. Now Honestly I may go top feed injectors later on (don't really see a need for change though, unless somebody can specify why). I can simply buy bigger sized 300zx injectors if need be. Not a worry there

clint240sx

iTrader: (2)

Which "fuel components" were you referring to? Injectors, FPR, lines, etc...

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

They are sidefeeds thats why lol. Ceffy sells 650cc injectors for $300 with PnP harnesses. You will max the Z32s 370cc injectors at 340-350whp. They will be fine for now honestly once you get to about 320whp the 4th gen chassis is at its limit. It will struggle to put the power down.

If you do intend on sticking with the VQ30 i would do exactly what Viper suggested except i would drill the cams and buy dowel pins this is what happened to my VQ30 on cam adapters:





IIRC the dowel pins are 6mm in diameter so you will have to bust out your protractor and mark where the cams need to be drilled Fastel carries dowel pins they need to be M6 by whatever length you deem necessary.

clint240sx

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the heads up on the pins. But what I meant was getting bigger side feed injectors lol. Only used the 300zx because they sell upgraded side feed injectors. I did see a guy on here that has a great deal on it, I've posted in his thread for reference lol

vipervadim

iTrader: (10)

^^ So Sorry crusher103

You're #5 person I know of who broke stephenmax cam adapters and destroyed a 3.5L or a 3.5 cammed 3.0L. bent/broken valves, broken valve stem reliefs, scored piston walls/heads, rod blown out the block.. Engine carnage is not pretty especially when it's your hard earned money down the drain.

I do not like to drill the cams because it's hard to get it exactly spot on on the cam itself with a drill press(90* cut) otherwise the dowel pin shifts around and has variance/movement.

Exactly why I've always timed my own cams and made my own WELDED cam adapters for my builds.



Especially since one cam adapter does not give the best timing for all cams -- stock 3.5L, Rev ups, JWT, HKS, NISMO, and Tomei are all timed different.


Cam adapters are not just for intake cams either..
with 3.0L timing - I've made cam adapters for exhaust cams, just turn the Exhaust (small) Cam Gears upside down (since new dowel pin is relocated to the bottom with adapter instead of up top where the stock dowel pin sits with just a spacer)

They held ~420WHP abuse for 1.5years on re-timed rev-up cams would've held even more if the car wasn't totaled.

Of course as with anything - if you don't know VQ cam timing you can seriously screw it all up, so fair warning.

TurboA32

iTrader: (36)

Ok is this cam adapter in this picture timed for rev-up cams??