So last night my car wouldn't start, got a jump and kicked it over. Parked it at my house but wouldn't start again. Finally got it started and brought it to the mechanic, 550 cca was only putting out 100 cca and the positive terminal was rotted out and had to be replaced. Got a interstate 800 cca battery with 6 yr warranty, wow what a difference all around...startup, windows and radio were better. Get those oem batteries checked...I was at the dealership last month and said my battery was good..

I know most people know here but for those that don't, btw my cars a 2010 so I was overdue

 

My last Diehard Gold North lasted from 2002 -2011 and it never died, I just figured it was time.

 

Damn, I know everyone says it but the guy at the shop claimed the interstate 800cca was the best so we'll see over time. I'm just glad I wasn't stranded somewhere, I also want to mention I called the dealership this morning to give them a piece of my mind and also try and finagle the new oem battery. Guy had no idea what I was talking about with the new 700 cca, and he flaimed they only put the new battery's in the Altimas. I know it's horse **** but these service guys are idiots. I would've went bought the 700cca if he said ya we have those or whatever

 

Just bought my 2010 last week. Told the dealer I wasn't taking the car without a battery replacement, they had to jump it once, and detailers said it was sluggish to start. They put a new one in for me.

Good heads up for everyone

 

Interstate and Diehard are both made by the same company, Johnson Controls

Your battery is fine and I am no fan on non maint free batteries like the max has so I would never buy the 700CCA

Despite reports on the is forum my 2013 had the 550 CCA battery and other 2013 owners reported the same.

I have not heard one person say they got a 700 CCA battery in a 7th gen Maxima, maybe 2014's are different

 

That's what I thought I read here, maybe I'm wrong. I thought it was interesting that service technician said the battery's were only upgraded with the altimas

 

A few people on this forum seem to think the 2013 Maxima's had 700 CCA batteries, I know my 2013 had a 550 CCA and a few other people chimed in saying the same.

You read correctly, the people who made the posts were mistaken.

Maybe late 2013's or 2014 have a 700CCA but I have not heard anybody say that for sure.

 

Absolutely correct. My service tech thought Nissan was switching from the 550 CCA to the 700 CCA with the intro of the 2013, and he was as surprised as I was when the 2013s arrived with the same old 500 CCA battery.

Mt 500 CCS gave no trouble for the 4 years I had it, but, at my old age, I cannot take a chance on being stranded in the middle of the night in a snowstorm or in the middle of the afternoon on a 100 degree day, so I switched to Nissan's 700 CCA battery (which is the ONLY Maxima battery my dealer stocks), and have been very happy with it.

The three Nissan dealers nearest me sell (and install) the new Nissan 700 CCA for $114 ($128 minus $14 credit for the old battery).

There are both cheaper and more expensive batteries out there, but I make it a point to accumulate brownie points by purchasing everything (and getting all maintenance done)from my dealer, which works in my favor when I tell them what I am willing to pay when buying new Maximas from them.

As a result of having everything done by the same dealer for 18 years, they don't charge me for such things as fixing a flat, replacing scratched lugs, upgrading my nav package, replacing an errant intelligent key antenna (took over two hours of diagnostics and work), etc. I know most folks there, and have built very good friendships with several of them.

It will be sad if I move far enough away to not be able to use my dealer.

 

When pricing your 8th gen do yourself a favor and get a True Car Price.

I never used it on my 13 Max and though I got a decent deal I probably could have saved $2k more than I did using carsdirect.

I was negotiating price on my Infiniti when I came across True Car. I priced it out and got an offer $3K less than the dealer would go, funny part is the SAME Dealership responded to the True Car price through it's internet sales dept.

 

I will check out the True Car site when the 8th gen arrives. That site might not be quite ready with the new gen at the time I send in my offer, as none of the other sites I have tried to use were ready when I bought my last few Maximas.

That is because I often send in my offer before the new generation cars have actually arrived at the dealer. I check to see exactly what cars are being shipped to my dealer from Smyrna, exactly what options and equipment they have, and make my offer contingent on the car not having been driven or touched in any way at the time I pick it up.

I have seen folks at dealerships 'try out' the first few 'new gen' vehicles as soon as they arrive, and I don't like the way they race the engine and scratch off in a car with maybe one mile on the odo. Of course I saw folks in the GM assembly plant in Doraville GA (now gone) back in the 1960s, scratching off in new Olds Cutlasses as they were taking them from the end of the assembly line to be loaded on the train for shipment. I just don't think a car should be 'maxed' in any fashion until it has a few miles on the power train.

Some dealers are prone to add all kinds of things before putting the car on the display lot. Some even drill holes in the trunk and add a spoiler and drill holes in the front bumper and install a dealer ad plate. I live in a rear tag only state, so I don't want holes in my front bumper and I don't want a spoiler.

I have had a close working relationship with the Internet Manager at my dealer, and after sitting down with her and negotiating for hours back in the mid-1990s, I now simply send her my offer via email, and she either counteroffers or accepts via email, and then we arrange for me to pick the car up when it arrives at the dealership.

I work strictly from invoice minus holdback. If I can't get the price at or below invoice, I simply wait a few weeks and try again. The Internet Manager at my dealer knows this, so usually simply accepts my first offer (which does give the dealer a small profit) because she knows I know the owner of the dealership, knows I always fill out the survey questionaires Nissan sends me, and get all my maintenance and repair work, as well as tires and batteries, through the dealer.

I guess this is a case of them rubbing my back so I will rub their back. I do not enjoy haggling with car salesmen, so greatly prefer this method to the car buying method I endured from around 1950 until around 1995. I have not talked with a car salesman for twenty years, and am much the happier for it.

 

You're dealer had an internet manager in the mid 90's ? I work in IT and also own a bar, I built our first website in 1997 and we averaged 5 hits a month, lol.

I imagine when the new body style of any car is released it's discounted less.

Since tru car is so easy to use I priced a Max and I have a dealer near my house who will sell me a 2013 Pemium/Tech for $27,999

Cars Direct says $30K, no idea how they can sell them so cheap but it says this dealer has sold 800 cars through tru car so they must make it on volume and hope people use them for service