sho89mtx

iTrader: (1)

ok, now do what? I turn the key to the on position, but not started it and then back to normal and do that for a couple times and then start it? If it starts better doing that, then it's the fuel pressure regulator? ALso I forgot to mention that I noticed a lot of times when I turn the car off, I can literally here a loud clicking sound as I turn it off?

cody_1996 maxima

Hi i have a 1996 maxima with a 97 max motor in it. that only has 62,000 in it . The car stalls once it warms up or like 15 mins of driving at stop signs or lights or around turns. I change plugs oil filter air filter evap canister and both evap purges-hoses as well cleaned IAC and MAF sensor new exhaust what could it be causing the stalling..?? It also has loss of power. sometimes it flies other times its drive like a old chevy astro van slowwwww...

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

how is your fuel pressure? rent a gauge and find the correct specs on the forum. does it take a long time to start, btw?

cody_1996 maxima

No it starts right up. I went and bought a used MAF sensor from a u pull it in my area. I got it out of a 98 with 110k on it . so far no stalling or shaking. i am getting an oil leak fixed Monday and the mechanic is going to test the fuel pressure.. i will be posting more updates as the days go by.. thanks for for the advice though.

cody_1996 maxima

Its starts right up no problems at all i did what you said it still starts the same way. Now when it did stall it would be harder to start. but as of to day 50 miles on the new MAF its running better more power and no stalling or loss of power and no shuttering.. hopefully the problem is fixed..

cody_1996 maxima

Car still running strong with the new Maf. Got oil pan leak fixed. The car has more power than ever. Now i got to fix the noise in the driver side front end. i think its a wheel bearing but not too sure any ideas. Its like a vibration hum noise..

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the updates. does the hum increase with acceleration? does it hum more when you turn left or right?

cody_1996 maxima

when driving and turning as well as braking it seems like the brake jumps on the driver side when the noise get's louder.

99zx2

iTrader: (3)

brake jumps?

cody_1996 maxima

Problem fixed new strut wheel bearing assembly, rear calipers and brakes and rotors. The brake caliper in the front was missing some hardware and it seized up. replaced it..

4DGA32

i got the same problem on mine! good thing i found this thread

Alu Wolf

I hope its not an issue that i post here as well but I am having a similar issue with my car. I have a 96 GXE 5spd. Currently my car is throwing the evap system codes as well as knock sensor and rear o2 sensor codes. i havnt cleaned the IACV yet. Currently my car wont start. it will crank over and has fuel and im pretty sure it has spark but unsure how to check. it kinda burps or backfires once and a while while i try to start it. I have replaced the ground wire from alternator to frame rail a few months back. could uissue be a bad ground?

ClearBoard

I followed this forum for two months while I worked through basics, hoping to solve my engine problem. I covered a lot a bases, but remained stumped, so thought I'd ask for ideas. Appreciate whatever suggestions you can give.


My 1995 Maxima GXE has engine problems - VQ30DE 3.0 Liter V6 with 4-Speed Automatic Transmission. The car has been dependable, well cared for and has 293.4 K miles.

It bucks at highway and city driving speed; occasionally stalls when decelerating for a stoplight or already stopped or starting out mornings in reverse; and twice has lost power while climbing a hill. The engine turns over about 1500 rpm, but settles at 700-900 rpm once warmed. When not bothered by the problem, the engine is peppy and pretty responsive for a 20-year old engine ( no hesitation when the accelerator is pressed.

I have cleaned the throttle, replaced air filter, and checked plugs (seem okay), I have also removed and cleaned EGR and Idle Air Control Valves (AIVC). Resistance across the IACV terminals was 29.9 – 30.0 ohms. Also removed, inspected, and cleaned the MAF sensor twice. Voltage across the power and ground wires were 10-12 Vdc, but couldn’t figure a good way to measure MAF signal output. The filament looks good.

The check engine light has remained off. ECU codes (via blinking CEL) include 03 04 – the ever present knock sensor – and 11 03 – A/T 1st signal: A/T cannot be shifted to the 1st gear position even it electric circuit is good. The 11 03 is a new one for me…

I took the car to a Nissan dealership – they did not have an OBD1 sensor. Eventually, they replaced the Cam and OBD (or POS) Crank sensors. This engine has two crank sensors, the REF by the tranny bell housing and the OBD near the oil filter. Initially the engine seemed okay on the short ride home, but the problem resurfaced Monday morning after sitting idle over the weekend.

I’m buffalo on this one and need some ideas / suggestions.

Many thanks,
ClearBoard

ef9

iTrader: (8)

I had the exact same problems on my 1996 I30.

No trouble codes at all.

I opened up the MAF and resoldered all of the connection points in there.

Problem has not returned since. Crossing my fingers.

ClearBoard

Appreciate the reply. Not able to picture internal wiring - not much to the MAF externally. Just recalling the outside connection plugs and the filament. See what I can learn. CB

DBear

Take a look at this thread re soldering the connections: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post7963527

I thought all 4th gens were OBD2?

ef9

iTrader: (8)

Were you able to complete the re-soldering repair?