Nightstalker61O

The box just says CLUTCH. I do have an INHIBIT CLUTCH INTERLOCK whatever that is but the one that just says clutch has no wires coming through or a housing for a relay. It is just blank.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

You should have a clutch interlock relay in front of your battery. With the carnage commited by the PO, and your replacing the harness it may be gone.

Here is how I bypassed the Cutch inhibiter in my 96 5MT.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

The AT harness looks to have an inhibitor relay in the same location (E61). Try bypassing it like I did, or find the G/OR (green/orange stripe??) wire at connector E14 in the image below, and ground it.

Fakie J Farkerton

iTrader: (51)

It's black to green with orange stripe on mine to bypass the clutch switch, but I like the cleaner look above.

Nightstalker61O

I'm going to give that a try. Do I just poke a wire in or do I need to salvage the metal crimp thing?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

You could poke a wire into the slots, but I would get a couple crimp on connectors for the long term. This wire will carry the heavy load that energizes the starter solenoid.

Nightstalker61O

Copy that. I'll let you know how it goes.

Nightstalker61O

Alright so I came home and gave it a try. My Inhibit fuse looks different from yours. However, I went for it anyways. I had my buddy move the wire from spot to spot and all of a sudden it started cranking all by it's self when he put in in a certain hole. I had the car on the on position. For some reason I couldn't get it to start or not crank by it's self. I'll get on my pc and post a picture of what mine looks like.

Nightstalker61O

[IMG]http://s1307.photobucket.com/user/De...tml?sort=3&o=2[/IMG]

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Find terminals 6 and 7, and jump them together. The relay will be marked if the socket isn't. Turning the key to "start" is necessary, as it energizes another circuit that enriches the A/F mix for starting.

ateick

iTrader: (1)

Plug the relay back in and look underneath it to the wires that run into it. Tap into the green wire with an orange stripe with one end of a wire and ground the other end of that wire. Try starting. Careful it will start in any gear with or without the clutch depressed.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Try these two.


Honeslty, If this were my car, I would take the G/OR wire at E14 and splice into the G/OR clutch pedal wire under the dash. Of course this is just looking at PDF manuals, I don't know what your car actually has at this point.

He just replaced a hacked harness, rehacking at this point would be stupid. Besides your method might disable cruise control.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You beat me to it. I was marking those same pins as 6 & 7.

I would like to Nightstalker61O that the engine will crank even when the transmission is in gear.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It most definitely would. Also, having the relay out of the socket will disable the cruise control. To allow the cruise to work, you would need to add a 2nd jumper in pins 3 & 4.



asand1 - please forgive me for using your photo.

ateick

iTrader: (1)

You're talking about splicing but my suggestion to tap into a wire is stupid? I don't understand that one. We are suggesting the same thing. I suggested the clutch pedal circuit in a previous post. Going straight to ground is meant to temporarily prove that it will turn over and start.
Cruise works fine in my car. Just have to disengage with the brake pedal

asand1

iTrader: (1)

I'm talking about using a jumper, rather than hacking up the harness under the relay box for testing purposes. The splice at E14 would be a permanent fix AFTER testing, using a seemingly dead end wire.

H3ll, why not just ground the wire at E14 for testing, and then splice it into the clutch switch wire? and yes I am saying the same thing as you, I am just trying to do it with as little cutting as possible.

ateick

iTrader: (1)

^^^Semantics I guess. I "tapped" into the relay wire by simply wedging one end of the wire from the bottom in beside the G/OR wire and then grounding. No cutting required. Not until I knew it worked.

Good luck OP. Hope the suggestions worked out for you.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Yes, back probing is always a good idea.

Nightstalker61O

I grounded the orange and green and she fired right up. Thanks for all of your help guys. I'm going to take a multi meter and make sure I'm not drawing too much voltage.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Glad to hear. Your old harness should have the orange/green wire that ran to your clutch pedal. Use this wire to splice to the orange/green wire you have grounded, and everything should work like stock.

Be careful, the multimeter will only carry 10 amp before blowing the internal fuse.