JoshG

Also there is no clunking noise, I think that was from a bump or the poor audio quality. I believe the squeal issue went away at 2k rpm.. Have to drive it a little more with no music on. I didn't hear it today.

Please look at my new reply on the first page all the way at the bottom of what potentially fixed the problem, no more misfires. Noticed I started on the 2nd page here.

JoshG

The 2k rpm whine noise is still there which is the bad pulley tensioner probably like you mentioned... but most importantly the bogging/misfire/stalling issue is gone from my previous drives after picking it up. I believe that was more important as the car was hard to drive.

So.. Misfire issue solved.. Now that 2k rpm whine noise from the tensioner will be issued sometime.

JoshG

Actually misfire has officially come Back. It did it for once.. But not continuously. Only happened once.. Then smoothed out.

Bummer.. Will have to look at this.

Ok so it almost stalled out on me right now. Interesting.

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

Have you taken it to a different shop? My mechanic has never mis-diagnosed any of my family's cars.

You would have saved alot of money doing the cleaning yourself. Would have only cost you about $20 for cleaner and few brushes

JoshG

Well they did diagnose it, they are a very well known shop. I just chose them not to fix it, it's p0300, p0302. Cylinder 2 coil. I only had them do the carbon clean up throughout the whole system... It does run better I will tell you that. But the misfire is still there but not all the time.

My mechanic who replaced is going to fix the coil issue for free.. Cause the shop wanted to charge $259 for that one coil that was bad but I said no..

JoshG

update: I haven't gotten a chance to get back to it, but the carbon clean up service helped me atleast get to work, its drive-able and tested how it would act this week.. well it still misfires and atleast once or twice when I drive. before the service It was so horrible to drive it. but still misfires after that...I have to change that coil on cylinder 2 that they told me where it was misfiring and see what goes on from there.. hope i get it done this weekend when im off.

Wanted to see if it would stop misfiring but it will not.. so I have to step up and fix the issue this weekend on the cylinder 2 coil.. or have a look at it. I do not want to keep driving it like this for much longer, I try to avoid driving it alot right now, drive easy on it until I get this issue fixed.. cause its no fun to drive it at this moment and avoid any other damage..

JoshG

Ok so I went and changed the coil with a used oem again on cylinder 2, still misfires.. So we tried putting a new ngk spark plugs.. Still did the same thing.

Someone help me out here, this is becoming a mystery cause it's not the injectors..we pulled out each one and it Shaked a little but does the normal thing when you unplug it...

Helppp!

I'm thinking it's carbon build up cause I only drove this car for 20k miles the past 3.5 years...had an oil leak from timing chain for 10k miles.. Fixed that.. Any many other stuff. But other than that I do a lot of stop and go driving..

Can it be exhaust issues? Like catalic converter... Clogged up or something?? Cause we changed out the spark plug and coils on cylinder 2 by myself for free like the shop said. But they lied. The carbon clean up did make the car drive-able though.. But it still misfires every so then. EGR issues?

Someone help, 145k miles by the way

JoshG

This is my Service list on my car... What could it possibly be?


Cleaned up a oil leak I had quite some time..there was OIL everywhere!, It was a huge job... First problem of this car after owning it for 2years with no repairs other than changing the oil since I had an oil leak to make sure it never runs out of oil, bought 124k miles, started working on it at 134k miles on June 2015, 145k miles is present today may 2016.

June 2015: Replaced Timing chain covers,
Both front and rear valve cover gaskets,
new oil pressure switch,
new oil pan,
new oil
New o rings
Clean off old oil stains/steam clean.. No more oil stains
New seals
New knock sensor.
Looks better under the hood now, No more leaks now! Check engine light stayed off.

October 5th -2015 New radiator/Air filter/new spark plugs/new fuel filter/clean MAF/ T.B / flush old Coolant/Add new coolant.

November-6th 2015- New Gold starter/Alternator..both were on its way out, starter crapped out on me causing a no start condition. Rides like a brand new car...Cannot complain.

March 25 2016- Drivers window Regulator Failed, Replaced with new, works like a charm again. Easy fix

May 7th 2016- Vacuum leak (high pitch noise at 2k-3k RPM, Car bogging at idle/lag issue+stalled out on me once/ Turn signal got stuck.

Replaced Intake manifold Gasket/Clean off carbon
, Throttle clean up..was full of carbon.
Replaced all 6 coils with USED OEM Coils, Old ones were cracked? and firing out spark where the crack was located causing hesitation and bogging.
Replaced Lever signal switch for turn signal.

May 20th 2016- bogging/misfire issue still present... After carbon clean up service from a shop.. Did make it drive able but still misfires..was told by shop p0300, p302 cylinder 2 misfire.. Coil was bad.. Replaced coil again and spark plug on cylinder 2 as described.. Still doing misfires.

JoshG

Anyone?

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

by any chance did they check the injectors? misfire typically refers to a bad injector(s). i have 5 of my 6 original coil packs and car runs fine. maybe the used coil packs were crap? retest all and check injectors.

JoshG

Well they haven't checked the injectors but we pulled out each one and the car just Shaked a little but didn't stall, which is normal. My mechanic told me its highly unlikely the injectors.. But who knows cause If it's misfiring in one of the cylinders...we changed the all the coils and the spark plug on cylinder 2 that was misfiring supposedly by what the shop said... but not injectors.. So I don't know what's left.. I keep thinking it's the injectors but they're telling me it's not?..

Frustrated man.. But will figure this out. Not giving up on it. The check engine light will not turn on when I drive.. The bulb works.. But one thing the shop told me that they were having a hard time connecting to the computer.. So they had to diagnose manually. Is my computer not operating correctly?


By the way when I drive on the highway it drives smooth, but until it's in idle/slow speed driving is when it starts to misfire like crazy

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

um, you replaced 1 spark plug? i would have done all of them together, sounds like this guys playing games hoping you'll get frustrated and throw a ton of money in his hands. buy a scanner tool off of amazon, i think its like 25-35 bucks. scan for yourself and see if this guys blowing smoke up your a$$, seriously. here's the one i paid like 35.00 for 4 years ago. cheap as $hit now. buy and scan and get back with the codes, your car can't be that fuked up.

ps. did you clean your maf recently?

JoshG

Didn't u see that I replaced all my spark plugs not too long ago? It wouldnt make sense to replace new spark plugs with new ones... They only had maybe 7k miles on them.

So I only targeted cylinder 2 which they told me where it was misfiring so I got my spark plug replaced on cylinder 2 for free, also the coil on cylinder 2. So I changed that.. Still misfiring so the diagnose is incorrect.. I'm going to have them investigate some more.

I pulled up the codes and all i got was a knock sensor code...that's why it's becoming a mystery game here..they're not trying to rip me off but they're really having a hard time figuring it out what it is since the check engine light is not giving any information and even their high tech computer scan tool they use...

flynlr

iTrader: (2)

a good shop can easily tell you if you have a bad injector. the only misfire I had in 21 years of owning my 95 maxima was due to a bad injector. after seeing the pintle caps gone on that one I went ahead and replaced the rest.

JoshG

well if i did the coils already and spark plugs... the only thing left is injectors..even though they say its not that. I still think its injectors to this day but not 100% sure.

JoshG

Well I got a call from the shop and they said coil 1 and 2 were bad, the used ones I put in were already bad....moved it around to cylinder 3, code moved to cylinder 3... Cost to replace is $600 for two coils or $1000-1100 for all 6, but keep in mind these are brand new ones but not autozone crap...and have a two year warranty, if it were to go bad anytime..they would replace it for free.. If the coils don't fix the problem they will not charge

Well.... I'm a bit shocked. This is not a pretty repair.. Coils .. Ugh

I even called the dealership for a quote as well..around $1000 for all coils for parts and labor brand new... So it's about the same but they do not have a warranty

Even if I were to buy the parts myself it would be $800 new..$131 a pop.. So ouch.

What to do now???

lux97Max

iTrader: (24)

Why buy new, our 4th gen coils are good not like the 5th gens. I got a full set of coils i can sell you cheap or 10 bucks for each coil you need. All you need to change the coils is 8mm socket with extension. Save some money and do it your self. Dont matter if your not mechanically inclined this is a very simple task.

JoshG

I agree, but the used coils I put in were bad already, coil 2 was bad last week now it's coil 1 and 2, which means they're probably on its way out for the others.. As I replaced all of them at once but all used

I didn't want to go this route.. But damn.

JoshG

I also paid my own mechanic to replace the coils with used oem the first time 3 weeks ago for $250, half labor half parts..but didn't fix the problem so.. But it was because the used coils were bad already. Kinda disapointing. He has been successful on my previous repairs.. But this one has taken a huge one on me. :|

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

Just grab more used coils. It's cheaper regardless. Coils are one of those parts that you just don't change out unless it isn't working.

JoshG

If i were to get used coils again , my mechanic would replace it for free..so, but I'm paying just for used parts

flynlr

iTrader: (2)

the coils are very easy to change. 1 elec connector and 2 bolts and pop em out.
probably take 10 minutes to do all 6
amazon has the OEM Hitachi coils which work perfectly.
rear bank 51 bucks ea
.
and front bank also 51 bucks ea

so for about 300 bucks u get 6 brand new hitachi Coils. save any old working ones to keep as spares if you need one 5 years or so down the road.

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

But you don't need a mechanic to change out a coil pack?

JoshG

I understand that changing the coils is easy, the shop is just charging way too much for coils, it's around $800 In parts for all 6. And labor is $200, then the $89 for diagnostic.

That's why I told them.. Yeah just give me a moment and I'll get back to you.. Cause that's a lot of money to spend on just coils! I was flipping out. The dealership was the same price on coils..so I'm sure they're getting it from dealership.. Not Autozone

And if I were to buy those hitachi coils $300 set..my mechanic would replace it for free cause the used coils he got didn't work so he owes me that job. So i would save $900...and I feel that would be the right choice to make. Cause $1200 for coils..my lord

my timing chain cover/both front and rear valve cover job my mechanic did was $750 which was a really good price considering that is a much harder job/replacing multiple things at once than changing out the coils. which didn't make sense to me at all paying $1200 for coils.


Also do those hitachi oem coils work? Any problems with them? Don't want to get a broken one out of the box.. >. do they atleast last? regardless.. I think thats my best option. I was hesitating to fork out $1200 for coils.. hell no.

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)

You wouldn't be saving 900. You'd be spending 300. Look at it like that. Imo you should just pay the diagnostic fee and find another cheap coil from a jy or a member here (cheaper and someone just offered you for $10)

JoshG

I mean i can afford the $300 for new coils, I have been researching for the past couple hours, Heard BWD from o'rileys have a lifetime warranty and heard one of the members had those and haven't had a problem with those coils, pretty much OE like hitachi. Looking around at part stores and see what members say about it. Hitachi/OE is the way to go...

I rather have new coils and have a peace of mind rather than dealing with Junkyard parts... cause I know for sure I am not forking out $1200 for damn coils. This is actually the first time I have swapped out a part that is broken with a junkyard part.. other than that I have replaced parts with new and haven't had a problem.. but I tried the junkyard coils..no luck. So better stick with new parts..it has caused more trouble than good. Knowing if the coil is going to work or not. thus why this thread is so long and having a hard time figuring this out because of a junkyard part I put in that was already bad.. replacing bad parts with bad parts again.. its a complete mess.

flynlr

iTrader: (2)

anything can be broken new out of the box. that said. a bunch of maximas came from the factory with those exact Hitachi coils installed. they are fine.

JvG

Many of us use Hitachi or Hanshin coils right from the junk yard with good results.

As for the injectors, they can be tested and rebuilt like new. I used Injector RX in Houston. Quick turn around, the bill was less than 110 bucks. The front injectors can be removed fairly easily. The back ones require removal of the intake manifold.

If your coils and plugs have been done, the injectors are quite possibly a likely cause. The injectors need to be serviced eventually anyway.

JoshG

Well they were saying the injectors were not causing it, they moved coil 1 and 2 to cylinder 3 and 4, code moved to 3 and 4.. Did it again and moved it back to cylinder 2 and 1. Code moved..

Just bad coils I picked up..it's unfortunate but it is what it is. Just gonna buy hitachi new..

JvG

Myself and others have said that you might want to get a second opinion.

Your mechanic seems to have a tool called the automatic wallet sucker.

JoshG

so whats your second opinion?.. All I get told that is that its the coils. My Own mechanic has been successful in my previous repairs, The shop its in right now are a well known shop.. so I don't think they're trying to wallet suck me. Its pretty much my mistake that I allowed to replace My failing original coils with junkyard coils.. and caused all this drama.

If the Hitachi coils don't work then its going to have to be a rebuild on all the injectors.. but that isn't the case right now as there's no evidence saying the injectors are bad. 9999% its coils.

JvG

Except new coils did not solve your problem, neither did switching them around.

You have spark, you have compression I assume, so the remaining factor is fuel. I say injector.

If you service the injectors the least that might happen is a smoother running engine and less fuel consumption. At best, it will solve your problem.

Yes, a mechanic will cost some money. You will save lots of money if you do it yourself.

Hate to say it Josh, but if you have an old car and depend on mechanics to keep it going rather than do it yourself, it might make more financial sense on a dollars a month basis, just to buy a brand new car.

JoshG

by the way I did not replace Coils with new ones, did you not read? they were replaced with all junkyard coils The shop told me they switched around the bad coil to other cyinders and the code moved where-ever they moved it.


I cannot afford a new car, there would be no way, I however can afford repairs, so its not an issue for me. I put money away each month physically for repairs. I put emergency $ away for stuff like this. Besides the car is in great shape inside and out looks brand new.. Just because of this small misfire issue shouldn't make me want to get rid of it. That is just for the weak.. I haven't had a problem like this for 3 years. Sometimes success comes with hard choices and challenges.. thats how you learn. Not escaping from it. only 145k miles on it, its got plenty of life in it. I plan to get atleast 5-7 more years out of it.

a new car would destroy me, it's not smart considering how well I am doing. Should do more research that new cars are a mistake..if I were to buy another used car..I'm sure I'm gonna be dealing with someone's else's problem once again. I have replaced many parts on the current one I have.. So better stick it up and stick to it.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

dude, seriously though. i bought a new hitachi coil off of amazon for 48.00 plus shipping and it really is so easy to replace that a kid could do it. don't get all caught up in op's responses in here, just look at youtube video on how to replace. learn something new man, you'll be glad you did!!

JvG

Josh, what I meant was that since you take your car to the mechanic a lot, your monthly repair bills might approach what a monthly car payment is.

Several members have said that much of the work is stuff which you could do yourself. But you don't do that.

Paying a mechanic rather than working on the car yourself is a choice you make. Same as most of the driving public. Nothing wrong with that. No shame at all.

You do post on a car repair forum. Which is populated by those wh do their own work. So we have a different way of solving the problem.

Different stocks for different folks.

I hope that you will findd a solution to your current car problems.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

case in point here josh, i spilled soda in my shifter 2 times ( auto ) and remembered that i was charged over 250.00 for the part and repairs. second time i did it, i watched a video on how to

clean shifter solenoid, and cable and i even bought another replacement solenoid which after i cleaned it i didn't even use. shifter has worked fine ever since. i was nervous as well, gotta start

somewhere dude. taking the first step is the hardest part, gl

JoshG

Well I mean sure I take it to a mechanic, and may be the same as a monthly payment on a car, but there's just something I like when my car is fixed. A new car doesn't have that same feeling and doesn't give that sense of appreciation like an old car where you enjoy every mile when it runs right. Kind of the theory of building/fixing rather than buying ready to go. That's just my opinion. I have driven a new car before. But it just doesn't feel challenging at all driving a new car, cause you know it's going to work. Sure it may prevent you from headaches and frustration but when you defeat that challenge on a old car and defeat it to make it run right, you feel good.

My last repair was back in November and that was a starter and a alternator. Got lifetime warranty on them.. So it's been a while since a repair has come up.

I thought this forum was more of like figure out the problem together even though I bring it to a mechanic. Never really thought of this forum where most people are "do it yourself" just my perspective


Gonna get it fixed anyway.

LJay

I know what you mean by that feeling. That's how I felt when I finally got my CEL to stay off. I get an occasional code here & there but it's no biggie. I do try to find out how to fix it myself (if it's not too hard) but sometimes it's just out of control. I'd buy the coils & replace them myself because it's easy & I've done it before. But if you trust your mechanic, than go ahead. It's all your choice.

Also, having a new car does seem cool & all but I know too many people who have a new car but hate having a car payment. More than half of them don't even appreciate their cars. Plus, newer car = more expensive repairs. And even if the car needs repairs, you still have to pay that payment lol that's no bueno

JoshG

Also since my car is misfiring, I have probably driven it atleast 300-400 miles after that, is there any damage to the catalic converter? I don't want to damage anything else as I know driving with a misfire is bad for the car. It runs smooth but misfires and stalls for now so other than that it's smooth.

Have I done any damage to the car? How long could I drive it with this misfire? even though I'm trying my best to avoid driving it. I am going for the new hitachi coils route. They wanted to charge me $1450 for all 6 coils, 1200$ was before tax. I was like hell no. The parts $1100, $200 each.. Labor was $49. Told me they were going to use hitachi coils too.

bumpypickle

iTrader: (1)